1987Comanche

So the clutch disc was binding up, but not for the reason anyone had guessed. That is indeed one for the books. Glad she's back on the road!

It sounds like the clutch hydraulics check out ok. On my LUK cluch I tried flipping the disc in both directions and it fit "ok." I thought one way worked a lot better than the other, which is why I went back to the old clutch and found the "this side out" mark on it. It sounds like you've confirmed something mechanically hanging up. Pg 5 of Georgia's build has a photo of the clutch installed: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/page-5

I'd put the 4WD drivetrain from the '86 in the '88. It would be the quickest swap & the engine has very low miles. Also the rear axle that's in there now can stay. The 4 banger is somewhat challenged at highway speeds but it doesn't sound like you're planning to drive cross-country.

Brake fluid eats plastic. I'd start off by pulling the fuses one by one. I think you'll be surprised at the condition of the old fuses. One of Maura's came out in 4 pieces b/c it had been eaten by brake fluid. If you caught it early enough you should be able to clean the contacts, replace the fuses, and go. Of course you need to fix the leaky clutch m/c asap too.

It is possible to install the clutch disc (friction disc) backwards. I put a LUK clutch kit in Georgia when the old internal slave let go. I replaced it with another LUK kit last fall when converting to 4WD/external slave and the new disc wasn't marked. They should be marked "flywheel side" or "this side out" but the new hecho en Mexico LUK disc wasn't (oversight? Laziness? Cost Savings?) As the discs both had the same P/N I used the old one as a guide to know which side went towards the flywheel. Was your disc marked?

Sounds like you are physically hanging up on something. A system that needs to be bled feels mushy, not rock hard. The hydraulics will easily disconnect the nylon straps so it isn't that. I'm not up on the BA 10/5 but I wondered if it's possible to put an AX-15 clutch kit on it and have it hang up. Unfortunately it sounds like you need to pull it apart again and see what isn't moving.

Looks like Meg is back with a new price of $750. Still high, IMO, but getting closer: http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/5062820887.html

Apparently Meg has some kind of a title issue now too.

Seriously? If you really are interested PM me and we'll see what we can figure out. I think she can be saved and turned in a nice 4.0 4wd rig but it will take a lot of effort. Here's the pass side and undercarriage:

With a busted pass side window too. I think market appropriate is maybe $500

Actually she has (had) a black vinyl bench seat

I was doing my nightly "Comanche" search on craigslist and came across this: http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/5037576859.html It's Meg, my old '87! The years haven't been kind to her. She looks/sounds rough. I called the owner and talked to him last night. Somewhere along the way the guy who bought her in 2009 became the original owner. I told him that guy was full of it and I could easily prove it. Gave him the VIN and he matched it against the title. I told him I'd be interesting in talking to whoever bought her as I'd love to see her fixed up. Ironically she's listed for $100 more than I paid for her when I bought her in 2007. In addition to the obvious issues it sounds like the AX-5 gave up. He said you can shift into any gear with the engine running but she won't move.

try putting a pencil magnet in the fill hole to see if you can fish out any metal. If you shift into neutral at speed does the noise/vibration go away?

Keep working to establish your case and don't roll over. The insurance game is to take in as much $$ as possible while paying out as little as possible. The first offer on my '65 was $2800 which, obviously, was way off for an original car with 50K miles. I sent them a copy of the build sheet, Protect-o-Plate, and a few comps. We finally made into the realm of a realistic offer but I had to drag State Farm by their ear the entire way.

At least you don't live in NC. This state has draconian insurance laws (legislators here work for the lobbyists, not the people). If they can find you 1% at fault for the accident then insurance isn't obligated to pay anything towards fixing your car, period. I learned this firsthand last year when that kid totaled my '65 Olds. State Farm tried every trick in the book (and then some) to hang that 1% on me but couldn't. They even went so far as to check the tread depth on the tires (9/32" btw).

You found 2 of the forums I'd recommend. It also might be worth picking up a copy of Moses Ludel's Chevy book. Very good overview of Chevy trucks. When scrounging for parts don't forget that the 88-91 Suburban/Blazer continued to use the old body style (they were redesignated R/V as opposed to C/K). I'd look for another rear if possible as it will be $$$ to fix that one. I used to have an '84 K10 Suburban with a 7.5' Western plow on the front. SM465, non computer feedback Qjet, and HEI. Ex Forest service truck,. It had a body only a mother could love but, 3 rolls of MIG wire later, it was a fairly solid truck. Any pics of the new acquisition?

I've had my Lincoln Pro-MIG 175 for about 10 yrs and I love it. I had to add a 240V outlet to the garage for it but that just keeps people from borrowing it :)

Check this one out. 60K miles!! http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/5013061479.html

For your 4WD conversion questions check out pgs 4 (bottom) & 5 of my build thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/page-4 Short answer to your question: 94+ external slave is preferred and yes, go for the whole trans.

How did you set the static timing before dropping in the dizzy? Might be worth an old school check. Pull the #1 plug, turn the engine over by hand, put thumb over #1 hole, and feel for air puffing out. Bring to TDC using this method and you know 100% you are on TDC for #1. My renix behaved exactly as described when I put in hecho en Mexico reman engine #1. Timing was way out. I fixed that and the thing proceeded to eat it's cam bearings. Dang ATK reman engine...

Did you get the 2 bolts that secure the flywheel inspection cover to the block? Sounds like the problem to me.

Will the transfer case shift into 4Hi and 4Lo? If so the vac actuator in the CAD axle is bad. The one on my '90 bench tested fine but wasn't strong enough to pull the lock collar over. You can drill/pin the fork so the front axle is always engaged or put a cable actuator (Posi-lock I believe) on it.

In a word: TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). These are the bane of most Nardelli era Chryslers.

The Renix crank has a smaller pilot dia than the HO crank. Your bearing ID will be correct but the OD won't.

Yes. The aftermarket systems are made to bolt up to the cat at the factory location. What's weird about the exhaust is that, on an AX-15 truck, the cross-member and rubber exhaust mount are identical but the systems are different. -Don't forget that some fuel system plumbing will be in order as well. Renix compatible injectors fit in the HO fuel rail but the inlet/outlet connections are in different locations. We used Volvo injectors (746s I believe) to get rid of the leaky 2 piece OE injectors. No sense in having a freshly rebuilt engine catch on fire...