Bounty Hunter

The 136A upgrade is for jeeps with the NipponDenso alternator, likely won't work for older jeeps with the ACdelco alternator. I did the 136A upgrade on my '95 YJ.

My buddy has TJ mirrors on his XJ and they work really well, something to consider.

Check out the manual choke cables at the auto parts stores for a little cleaner appearance. I'll be using an aircraft cable on my D44 disco, it's pretty HD and locks in any position by pushing the button in on the pull knob. Now you can weld the front diff and have a poormans selectable locker.

Driver's door only, several inches back from the wing window just below the sill. 2 screws and 2 rivits, and you can tell in the paint that something used to be there. Both MJ's are a base model that I can tell, no other package identifiers. The '88 is a 4.0L auto SWB 4wd and the '91 is a 2.5L 5spd LWB 2wd.

Probably $200 tops for both, they're really only good for parts.

Stumpy on this forum said he pulled the rollpins to remove his doors, I've never done it personally. I usually manage to get the door open enough to fit a torx socket on the bolts and get the doors off both my MJ's.

You can remove the ugly vacuum harness between the valve cover and airbox, it'll clean things up but you won't see any power gains. You'll still have to run the basic vacuum lines but that setup can be simplified.

That sounds right, only I do mine with a Snap-on scanner that reads through the 'puter ;) Do you have the manual or auto tranny?

I'll take some pics, just really odd that by chance both trucks had them and now don't.

Which engine?

Got mine at O'Reilly's. They're the same for long/short bed MJ's, it's the single front cable that is longer.

My '88 MJ's side mirrors are like the XJ, but my '91 has different side mirrors bolted to the door skin. Anybody know the year break? What's your preference? And both my '88 and '91 have 2 rivets and 2 screws in the same spot on the driver's door, just below the window and about 6" behind the side mirror. Looks like something was there at one time, and on both jeeps. What gives?

IF you go to rear discs, use a woodscrew to pull the seat out of the rear line output at the master cylinder. Remove the check ball and reinstall the seat, then the rear brake line. You'll be good to go.

That is common to the software that NAxja uses, and it's handy. Don't know if that mod is available for this phpBB software, I haven't seen it.

Are TJ slipyokes similar to the YJ slipyokes? I've got several of those and would send you one for $30 +shipping. bountyhunter@sija.org . I need to do this to mine after the SOA, maybe tomorrow and I'll let you know. I'll take pics.

Why not SOA the rear, save a bundle on springs. SOA was a perfect match for my 5.5" coils.

Find a good synthetic fluid for the tranny, and keep on jeepin.

Your understanding of how the CAD works with the different scenarios is dead on. I have been running a Lincoln Locker in mine for several years now with no adverse problems. Pretty heavy wheelin and no axleshaft or ujoint explosions or bent housings as mentioned above. For me, it's a poor-man's selectable locker. My Waggy D44 that's going in will also have a CAD, but this one is in the diff housing on the driver's side of the diff. It'll have an aircraft cable from the diff cover to inside the cab. I keep the CAD connected 95% of the time on the trail, only unlocking it for the tightest of turns. You have to be careful when it's disconnected as you'll be in 3wd and all the torque through the front driveshaft will be sent through the driver's side axleshaft, a lot more torque than if it were sent to both axleshafts.

What do you mean 'we'? I've never heard of anybody doing such a thing. The slightly offset diff has never been an issue from what I've seen.

You can't install a CV driveshaft with the stock slipyoke on the back of the transfer case. You'll need to either have your driveshaft lengthened slightly, or install a slipyoke eliminator kit (SYE) and run the CV driveshaft. With the SYE, you'll have to remove the TC drop and make sure the rear axle pinion is pointing directly at the TC output. I'm running a SOA in the rear with the stock driveshaft, no TC drop and no vibes or other problems. The shaft does stick out of the transfer case 1" further than when it was stock, so I'll take care of that before this jeep goes offroad.

Column shift sounds very rare, I've only seen that in Police Package XJ's.

That's a ton of carbon, but likely normal for high mileage. I had the valvecover off my 2.5L at 95K for a cam and valvespring swap and it had no deposits like that. You may want to consider using some cleaner or flush additives before the deposits clog oil passages, maybe add SeaFoam to the oil.

Hard to tell from the photo, but they look a lot longer than 15 1/4". Want to sell them?

At first glance (read 'without measuring'), it looks like it would clear the rear axle but may have to be spaced down to clear bed crossmembers. The forward upper edge of the shortbed tank is clearanced for the crossmember, not sure on the LWB tank.

Anybody done it? I swapped out my fuel pump today, turns out the '91 longbed 2.5L I have for parts has the same pump and sending unit as my '88 shortbed 4.0L. I was eyeing up the larger tank for an upgrade if it'll work.