Bounty Hunter

You may need to add 1" to driveshaft lenght, or get a longer slipyoke. I did a SOA on a shortbed and didn't need a SYE. Just make sure your rear pinion is parallel with the TC rear output, or 1º down.

:cheers: Nice looking project, but it looks like you pulled the straps too tight :eek: :nuts:

Any chance you can find MJ floorpans in the boneyard? I used some XJ floor pieces in my MJ.

I believe all MJ's had the CAD, and a locking hub has nothing to do with wether or not the differential locks up (if I understood your question).

Short arms at 17". Not ideal but it works for what I use the truck for so far. May go with a longarm down the road if the price is right. Just picked up a 4.11 front axle, so out comes the 3.55 axles and the new front will go in with the 4.11 rear I've got in a 2.5L parts MJ.

'88 4.0L 4wd auto MJ with 5.5" RE coils and SOA rear. Rear is a 8.25" from an XJ, with an XJ prop. valve for braking.

They go for around $400 here. I prefer the 'Zu D44 rear with discs for $150 at pick'n'pull.

Novak site says the AW4 was 21spline up until '90, then '91+ is 23spline.

$10 an axle, I'd jump on it ;) I prefer the pre'91 non c-clip D35 over all others.

Likely the spline count on the input shaft won't match between those two transfer cases. I've been able to interchange nearly all parts on every 231J I've worked on. Jeep used the NP207 in AMC's before the 231J was introduced.

Ah, there is talk of hootus here too

Looks good. Whatcya gonna do with the taillights?

Do we need that? I cut that whole thing off the airbox.

It should. I went SOA and could use the little bit of extra length I've seen in the AX15 driveshaft.

The IAC motor controls idle, and is often filthy with carbon buildup. I'd remove the entire throttle body and give it a good bench cleaning with the sensors removed, paying close attention to the IAC passages.

I didn't think it's adjustable, it should come back down once your solvent burns out of the throttle body.

The vacuum lines to the transfer case operate nothing else. The 4 lines are: Vacuum from engine (often red) Vent line (often blue, with an odd shaped cap) 2 lines to front axle (black) There is a 5th line (on older models), it's the 3rd line at the disconnect and runs from the disconnect motor to the 4x4 light switch on the firewall (often yellow). Trace the red line back to the intake manifold and remove the line, capping the port. All the other lines can be removed.

Not to mention the XJ is SOA, and the MJ is SUA, so even if the pads lined up they would require relocating to the opposite side of the axle unless your MJ has been converted to SOA.

I need to tigthen the downpipe where it attaches to the exhaust manifold, does the Renix use a donut gasket here?

I was thinking there were two wire leads from the sending unit, not counting the ground clipped to the outside of the sending unit. If I can find out what signals the leads send, I may be able to switch them and straighten this thing out.

The spring perches on the XJ axle won't line up with the MJ springs, so you'll need to cut them off and reweld them. You can then set your pinion angle parallel with the TC output or about 1º down from parallel.

The only thing I have '91 or newer is the fuel pump. Think i could reverse the leads or am I FUBAR'd until I get a different fuel sending unit?

I agree with the lincoln lockers, as I've seen so many lunchbox lockers break axleshafts due to sudden locking during wheel spin. I'm hesitant to weld the rear of my MJ, since it's so light, but have had both axles in my YJ welded for several years with no problems.

It won't come down in one piece, you have to remove many smaller sections and the steering column before the base comes out.

I can't imagine it being the ground, as it appears to be working fine other than sweeping backwards.