Bounty Hunter

Or go to www.jeepinoutfitters.com (Doetsh-Tech3000) to get the right size shock for around $30 each. jeepinoutfitters will have free shipping and the DT3000 is a good smooth shock.

You'll have to weld on spring perches, and possibly adjust driveshaft length. The stock driveshaft is bolted to the 8.8 with a flange adapter, you can occasionally find an 8.8 with it attached.

A properly setup jeep doesn't need a stabilizer at all, and replacing them or adding additional stabilizers is generally a bandaid covering up other problems.

Swap in an 8.8 and be done with the brakes.

That's way too much, disc rear axles run for $150-$250 'round here.

XJ 1032.48mm MJ 1064 mm centre to centre

Outside of spring hanger to outside of spring hanger MJ= 1208mm XJ= 1192mm What am I missing, your diagrams depict the MJ springs as being further apart, at least as far as I can tell.

I thought the MJ springs were further apart.

Thinner part of the spring PACK. And as for your vehicle comparison, comparing apples and oranges. Not saying you're wrong, just throwing out an alternative viewpoint for discussion. I used to think along your line, but have recently been looking at it a little differently. I think any excessively long spring perch will limit spring movement, I don't think you can have it both ways.

A HO head will make a great improvement over stock, as well as a performance camshaft. Then there's the FirePower ignition kit from Performance Distributors.

I generally remove mine with cutoff wheels. And the 8.8 is only about .5" or .75" narrower per side, commonly available in 4.10. I had a LS diff given to me that I installed as well, removing the open diff.

The axle is going to twist regardless, but adding a long lever (long spring perch) is going to increase the distance the end of the spring perch travels horizontally. Add this to transferring the torque to a thinner part of the spring pack and there you go. With a long spring perch, only the amount of leaf pack outside the perch is absorbing any axlewrap. Couple this with the ends of the pack being thinner, and you suffer the consequences. Shorter spring perch means you have the entire spring pack to absorb wrap, even the thicker part of the pack. I used to think longer perches were better, but I think they just limit spring movement and place more stress on a thinner part of the pack.

Ya, spring perches on the XJ are too close together. Even if at the right spacing, you'd likely want to cut and reweld for the proper pinion angle. Get any axle you want and weld up some spring perches. I went with the 8.8 in the 4.10 flavor.

I've seen were longer spring perches induce spring wrap, more leverage on a thinner part of the spring pack. Can't beat that stealership deal, I couldn't make 'em for that much.

Bypassing the rear brake bias assembly just makes for a simpler KISS setup, and it's one less brake line to the rear. XJ proportioning valves make a good swap beneath the master cylinder.

New ones run about $20 a pair at any 4wd shop or maybe the stealership.

Pong, I got about 9mpg with my dad's 6.0L HD pulling my jeep on a heavy trailer, is that what you've seen?

That tire mounting plate works with three different lug patterns, I think it's 5x4.5", 5x5.5", and 6x5.5". Some friends of mine just ordered a bunch of fab parts from them and they didn't complain about the shipping. Check it out if you're interested.

I just put in 20w50 and my oil pressure guage and I are much happier. Engine seems quieter and more smooth. This at 212K on the ticker.

Here's a cool wheel mounting plate if you don't want to fab one: http://www.atozfabrication.com/catalog/ ... ucts_id=36 Mine is similar to the 'flat spare tire mount' halfway down this page: http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/appli ... stuff.html

Getting ready to install mine, simply a 1.5" threaded acme rod that goes through the spare on the floor of the bed into a 1.5" acme nut welded into a plate beneath the bed. With the tire removed, the bed is unobstructed for use.

I've never been able to get a 5spd or transfer case shifter apart like that. I can see how it's assembled around the rubber bushing, but I can't get them apart.

Good time to clean up your engine compartment with new vacuum lines, and you can route them better than the stock configuration. I did away with that hidious 6-way vacuum connector that all the lines juntion at, and routed everything direct.

PM's are in your 'out' box until they are opened by the receiving party, at which time they move to your 'sent' box. Don't worry, everything is working as it should.

Throw a HO head on while you're at it. Then consider a '99+ intake manifold for the best flow.