TNT

Instead of making his Jeep smaller and hurting his ego, I just cropped off the edges... :D

The plan is to cut my cab off just before the curve in the door opening. I will have another cab I will be adding on to the front portion of the cab. The frame rails will be left intact and the floor pan will be modified as needed. I'm just extending the cab for the extra interior size. The only part of the floor that will be modified is thr transfer case tunnel will be lengthened, the seat belt mounts will be relocated with the new cab section. The rear part of the floor will be modified to fit the frame rise. There will be a bunch of time spent making the floor and cab fit the frame where it rises. I also plan on plating the frame frome front to rear and will make the floor fit the frame properly.

I have decided to do a custom build. I'll section the cab and use the back ection from another cab to extend it so a 2dr door fits. The front of the bed will be shortened about 10 inches and the rear of the bed will be bobbed so it ends it the end of the shackle mount. Something like this. The extra room will make it easier to get in and out of. I will also be more comfortable with my back problems. It should also allow for a longer tunnel for a doubler. :brows:

I have decided to do a custom build. I'll section the cab and use the back ection from another cab to extend it so a 2dr door fits. The front of the bed will be shortened about 10 inches and the rear of the bed will be bobbed so it ends it the end of the shackle mount. Something like this. The extra room will make it easier to get in and out of. I will also be more comfortable with my back problems. Any input will be great. I'll be adding this to my build thread also.

You should buy a YJ slip yoke which is slightly longer and allows for more driveshaft angle before binding. You also might want to drill some new holes in the spring perch to move the axle forward about an inch. Doing both of these things will take care of your rear driveshaft issues as long as you set your driveshaft angle correctly.

Wow when it said it was rescaled to fit my screen I should have clicked on it. :eek: At least I have broad band

From the looks of this pictre he is running poly bushings. That probably a big part of the problem Image Not Found

Just wedge a tire with a locker and they break pretty easy. Burnouts are no where near as hard on axles as rock crawling is.... I have seen two break with 33" tires when rock crawling.

hannemanns That's it... I couldn't remember and lost there web page when my computer crashed. Thanks

whose rear fenders????

If you want a 62"-63" wide axle that is strong buy a 14 bolt cab and chassis axle. It's a full floater that is about the same D70 strength wise. Grind the lip off the bottom and do a rear disc swap. You'll never need to worry about axle strength again unless you go bigger then 44" tires and 500hp.

Most Mopar RWD cars were 5 on 4.5. My 'Cuda rims would have fit. A good swap would be a set of '80s 15x7 squad car wheels, they look good and are built strong.

Since you only run 31's clearance won't be an issue and I would guess about a 2-3 degree shim might be needed.

won't matter at all

I'm assuming you mean a soft cover. Look for a S-10 one. Then cut the rails to length, mount some angle on the tool box for the front rail and have an upholstery shop shorten the cover as needed.

They give me good drugs but with a 4 level neck fusion and 11 degenerated discs I can get stuff done on a good day. On a bad day I live life on an alternate plane. I'm off of work today because of my back. I have a hard time spelling and reading the screen when they are at full strength. There is always pain, when its bad the drugs make it so I don't care. I'm in a different zone. This is why my MJ is going to be my last major build I can do. I had to proof read and fix this post 5 times. Thank god for preview. And I still had to edit it...

Picked up a '97 Dakota front seat today for $25.00. They are 2 buckets with a seperate center bolted on. I'm probably going to use them as buckets with a '95 Cherokee center console. Here's the pic Image Not Found They should be a pretty simple swap.

It's the full length one. I'll have to see how my back feels on monday. Thats the day I'm going there to get my parts. Make a list of what you need and what you'll pay. I'll see what I can do

You don't need boomerang shackles. XJ's need them becausse replacement lift springs are longer and the shackle will hit the mount if boomerang shackles aren't used. The link to the drop shacles is right. They use the same width springs and mounts but Chevy shackles mount are below the spring instead of above it. Get the Chevy drop shackles for the price they are a great deal.

I use TNT 1.5" shackles on my MJ. There is no need for a boomerang schakle on a MJ. I took mine off of my XJ. I did redrill my mounting hole in the frame mount to increase the shackle angle for a better ride and increased droop. The TNT shackles are well built and HD. Here's a pic. Image Not Found And no I'm not affilated with them I've been TNT on most Jeep boards since 2000.

I did a 645 with my stock XJ about 7 years ago. I depends on what degree ramp you are on too I think.

That depends... I could use help to swap motors and such.

I will be pulling my MJ motor which runs good and have all the rest of the parts it would need. I'm swapping in a complete '95 4.0 HO engine, trans and t-case into my MJ.

Be sure to check out my tech post with the JeepSpeed rig pictures. The fab work in the pictures are awesome. here's the link http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6911 Be prepared to right click and save a bunch.

It's missing the grill, header, condensor, valve cover, master cylinder and radiator. I think the front bumper and 1 front flare is gone too. Other then that the rest is complete if I remember correctly.