TNT

I have a switch to control if it stays in first or second and use the manual shifter for the other gears. I can also control torque converter lock-up with a switch. I shift manually on the street or trails and it works great.

Keep the water, mud and salt out of the holes in the frame that allow access to the upper control arm bolts. Use the crankshaft access plug from a late '80s to '90s Mopar cars and mini van splash shields on most vehicles they built. They fit directly in the hole on a XJ. A MJ has a extra steel tab that needs to be trimmed slightly. It may be stupid simple tech, but it works great to keep water, salt and mud from getting into the frame.

The mounting holes can be lowered about 2" to gain even more length. I did this with my Goodridge stainless lines to allow for even more droop. They should be perfect with the 14" travel shocks I'll be using. I will also be using my rear XJ Goodridge stainless line mounted to allow for 18" of travel.

Someone has Mad Skills.... :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Besides the paint I would be pissed off about the emblem unless they asked you before installing it. I would have also made them remove the window sticker because I paid for a bedliner not a sticker. I would never left without the sticker removed, the price being lowered due to the paint damage and they would be paying me to leave the emblem in the bed or removing it and redoing the job so I couldn't tell it was ever there.... If they want me to advertise for them they better be paying me.... For every month I leave the sticker and emblem on..... They are responsible for your paint damage unless you signed a waiver in advance. I would bet they would be paying me back for the entire job if not more by the time it was done right. If not I would park in the street in front of the shop and show/tell all the customers the quality of work they do unless they fixed for me. Here is a sample of what I've done in the past... When I buy a car after we settle on a price I ask how much they are paying me to run their licence plates, frames and sticker. I refused to pickup on my SRT-4. They weren't going to let me walk away since I paid for it in full with cash... I bought the car before it was even unloaded and told them no stickers, plate frames or plates. They removed the stickers, waxed the decklid,removed plates and frames. Then they ordered a new fascia because the upper screws were too long and hit the fascia leaving 2 holes in it... :roll: It also had put 3 miles on it and all the nubs were worn off the front tires and the rears still looked like new, that cost them a $200.00 Mopar Gift card. When the new fascia was installed they detailed the entire car. I also verified the mileage before and after to make sure they weren't out hammering on it. I also grease sticked the tires to check for wear...

Mamas and Papas - Monday Monday

Thank God everyone is fine. :D :D :D Here are my thoughts about this. This would be what I would tell the wife. It's that darn independent front suspension we need to replace it with a 4dr JK Rubicon. It even has a rollcage to protect the family better. It will also hold it's resale value better. :brows:

To bad you are so far away, I could get you some Stanley springs. :roll:

i like doing pinion seals while the axle is out. after all, it's a $5 part, i have one laying in the garage that i bought for the bent front axle that's currently in the 3800, and it's easy to rpelace. preload isn't hard to set Axle seals are even more fun to fix after the axle is installed.... :nuts:

Repost.... :popcorn:

Hand washing it with it running and the blower motor on high will work great for finding leaks. Use a good amount of soap and just watch for bubbles. If you need to buy new door gaskets get ones for the 97 and newer XJ's. They seal better.

Comparison between stock inner fender and my cut inner fender. Image Not Found Image Not Found[/img] It's a huge difference. Here are a bunch of picture of flares raise to the body line and above the body line. There are no gaps they are complete filled and looks good. Here are some pictures of the both style flares showing how it is filled. Raised to the bodyline Mounted Image Not Found How the gap was filled Image Not Found Side views Image Not Found Image Not Found Raised above the bodyline Mounted Image Not Found How the gap was raised Image Not Found Side views Image Not Found Image Not Found Comparison Image Not Found Image Not Found These should help people understand how I cut and modified stock front flares for tons of clearance..

Comparison between stock inner fender and my cut inner fender. Image Not Found Image Not Found[/img]

Welcome. With 38-40" tires a front 60 woould be the way to go. I have a HP DRW D60 that I can get for a good price if you aren't too far away. As for trimming follow my posts and ask any questions you need too.

Thanks for the complement. I try to work outside of the box sometimes. :D The first side is like practice... :brows: I'll take pictures and do a write up about it. When I do the other side I will show all the cuts and bending. :chillin: I did get a nice sun tan as a side benefit. 8)

Thanks. I can make 33's fit 4dr XJ's without a lift. :brows: Here's a couple more pictures. I also started welding some of the factory seams Top view. Image Not Found Front view. Image Not Found Better inside view Image Not Found

No, I'm staying with leaf springs just changing it up some. I'm extending the wheelbase 8" with 64" Chevy springs. I'm going for long travel and will be using FOA 18"travel shocks. My shocks will mount vertically. and the rig will be fully caged. The shackles will be custom and mount over the frame rail with about a 10"-12" length. Since I'm extending the cab 9" the bed will just be moved back abd bobed at the end of the frame. If needed I can use 1" offset spring plates if needed. Shock mounting style that will be used. Image Not Found Shackle style. Image Not Found End Hijack.... ;)

Here's a different angle. Image Not Found Showing clearance with a 18" hammer. Image Not Found

It works for me, I've been TNT since 1999 on NAXJA when I lifted my 94 and 95 XJ's. I'm TNT on most of the boards... Now I might not get as many questions about their products. People always call them TNT instead of T&T and they think I'm affiliated.... I do run their shackles which I bought used but new in the box. I painted them and now they have about 25 miles on them.... They are nice. I'll be selling them and my springs as my project progresses. I'll going a different direction.

If you don't have anything going on tonight give me a call. sorry, work til 9pm then tax paperwork (a bit late i know) then won't be in town til friday. i don't think i really have a day off for 3 weeks or so. No problem. I'll just take it easy and get as much done as I can. I still have a bunch of tear down on the MJ. Maybe I'll finish the little bit I have left on the XJ so Scorpio can take it and make some room for me. Maybe he can hang out and get the box if and over where the XJ is. It all depends on how I hold up. Let me know when you need the lift parts and possible ther front bumper and rear springs/shackles.

If you don't have anything going on tonight give me a call.

I reworked the inner fender for as much clearance ar possible. It has 6.5" of lift with some wornout 31's on it right now. It will have 35" tires when it is finished. Here is a picture of the inner fender after raising the flares with 33" tires. Image Not Found I cut the front of the inner fender for a dramatic increase in room. My goal is to get as much uptravel as possible as part of my build. I still need to do some more welding, then clean up and paint it. Here is a picture looking straight down from under the hood. Image Not Found Here is a picture the inner fender. I gained 4" or more of clearance. The difference is dramatic. Image Not Found There is now more room in front the tire then from the rear or above. I should be able to stuff the tire about 3" more and still be able to turn from lock to lock. As part of the build the front axle will be moved forward 1".

Sure. Are you interesred in the T&T shackles also?

I have raised my flares as much as possible, as I have posted before. It has 6.5" of lift with some wornout 31's on it right now. It will have 35" tires when it is finished. Here is a picture of the inner fender after raising the flares with 33" tires. Image Not Found I cut the front of the inner fender for a dramatic increase in room. My goal is to get as much uptravel as possible as part of my build. I still need to do some more welding, then clean up and paint it. Here is a picture looking straight down from under the hood. Image Not Found Here is a picture the inner fender. I gained 4" or more of clearance. The difference is dramatic. Image Not Found There is now more room in front the tire then from the rear or above. I should be able to stuff the tire about 3" more and still be able to turn from lock to lock. As part of the build the front axle will be moved forward 1".

KOH previews Haulin or Crawlin 4 preview