UNL1MTD

Thats good to know, I was searching for it by reaching up under there and had no luck. Then visually I couldn't see anything, probably nothing there then.

No, just put another 5wt in there. I don't think the dash lights need more than that. I blew cause I was probing it with a test light, I'm sure I shorted it out.

I haven't posted in here forever. I finally got some work done on the truck, so why not update the thread again. The thing that should be at the top of my list keeps failing in priority ... oil leaks. I have managed to stop the oil filter from leaking, by replacing those gaskets back in September. But the Distributor leaks oil, as does the rear main, and my friend the valve cover is leaking again. I'm not sure if my cover is warped or what, but next time I'm going to look into a replacement cover and a rubber gasket. I just want to be done with that once and for all. I have the Distributor gasket in hand and plan on doing that soon. Other work thats been done is- Cleaning out the Throttle Body. She had a an idle where it would drop down at a stop light, then catch itself. It still does it after the cleaning just less frequent. I replaced the Torx bolts that hold down the intake to the TB with hex head while I had the intake off. It looked like this when I started. :shake: Installed a new set of main cables, which I purchases from Jon Kelley. B+ to starter, B+ to Solenoid. B- to Engine Block. Also switched over to marine style clamps on the battery posts. Comparison of new and old cables. Installed- I also have another 1 gauge cable to replace the factory braided ground from the block to the firewall and to add another ground from B- to fenderwell. I installed some Fog lights which I got from the site's classified. The package included Fog lights still attached to pieces of the previous bumper, harness from fog connectors to cut wires, Fog light switch cluster, with another switch (not sure what that was originally for), and the connector for that switch plus 6 inches of cable. Knowing a bit about electronic circuits I knew that I needed to add a fuse and a relay to make this a safe lighting circuit. Also I had to make sure this fog lights went off when the hi-beams went on. First order of business was getting the lights off, have to tighten the big 1'1/16" nut to the bumper, then spin off the 15mm. Then spin off the 1'1/16" nut, then the fog light falls off. Then it was a matter of running some wire. Mounted the relay near where the balast resistor should live. Tapped into a ground near by for relay pin (85), ran a wire from the battery to a fuse to relay pin (86). Ran a wire from the switch to relay pin (30). Tied the hot line to the fog lights into pin (87). Whew. Next I used the existing fog light harness in the truck and cut the middle green wire and bottom black wire. Used the black wire as a ground for the new switch, and the light green wire goes to the headlight switch, which will disable the foglights if the hi-beams are on. Added some wire loom and everything was good to go. Well the driver's side light seems to be flakly, sometimes needs a tap before it comes alive. I've already reseated the bulb which helps, might have to add some di-electric grease to it, its connector, and brush them prior to get a better connection. Relay Mount- Switch- All lit up- Future projects include doing the front brakes, adding a factory clock, chaning out the motor mounts, changing the O2 sensor and stopping the oil leaks. Just want to make this truck solid so I don't have to worry about it anymore.

Ended up just being the bulb for the Fog Light Indicator lamp. I wasn't able to figure out how to get to the bulb for the headlight indicator (pictured above). How do I get to it so I can replace/troubleshoot it?

have you popped the rear diff cover to see if there is anything other than spider gears inside? I've never seen that before, but maybe its an aftermarket plug for a locker or another kind of traction aid?

that beer was instrumental in me finishing that project. Hooked everything up and went to start it *nothing*. Tried tighening this, that, the other, nothing. Got a beer, drank it, calmmed down, thought about the problem. Brushed the stud for the starting solenoid off, reconnected, *starts right up*. Had to give the HighLife some credit. Way I figure is that the previous wire to the solenoid wore itself in and corrosion built up other places, since this was thicker it landed at a different spot on the stud and needed some brushing for a solid contact.

Green wire taps into the headlight dimmer switch so the fogs go out when the hi beams go on. Need to do this to pass inspection. The green wire is factory from the harness which my switch came out of, also listed in the Haynes manual as light green.

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but .. I took the advice of you guys and had the pleasure of ordering from Jon Kelley and getting some battery cables from him. Not only does he provide a top notch product, but his service/communication was outstanding. Check him out here at http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/ I only have had a chance to install the three 'main cables' but I also ordered the replacement engine to firewall ground and bi to fenderwell ground. Here are some shots of the battery cables. Comparison of the new and old. 1g wire is pure beef. What my negative cable looked like going into the engine block. Ps that but holding them down was stuck to the stud. had to put some vice grips on the stud and turn the nut with a wrench to break it free. Comparing negative cables- It appears the PO replaced the B+ to Starter cable some time ago. It was in decent shape for the most part. I did find that when that was replaced he just stripped 1 inch of the green wire going into the starter and wrapped it around the stud. I cleaned that up with a ring terminal and some heat shrink. All around super happy with this mod/repair and I am looking forwad to installing the remaining two cables. Speaking of which. Any easy way to bust loose the 11/16s nut holding the ground strap to the engine block near the 6 cyl? I couldn't even get close to it with a socket and a open ended wrench had no movement to do anything with.

These light bulb sockets are scattered throughout the dash, I'll have to try the other ones just hanging out aswell. But if all of them are out, is that a clue of somesort? I did look very close at the fillament and its so tiny that I couldn't decern if it was damaged or not.

Pictured above is the coolant related motor that is leaking on my MJ. I'm guessing that it is related to the Heater controls, but I'm not even sure why I'm guessing that. I was working under the truck and noticed coolant leaking onto the starter, it is originating at this spot, specifically where the screws are. I can't say the rate at which it leaks. Anybody know what exactly it is, ways to test/fix it, cost to replace? Thanks, Sean

I recently added a set of fog lights to my 87 MJ. In doing so I used the factory switch which has the standard fog light symbol. Behind it you can snap in the standard dash illumination bulb with orange/black wires. I figured that this would light up at night when my headlights are on. Not only does this not light up, but the 'headlight' picture above the headlight multifunction switch doesn't light up either (never noticed before). Headlight symbol and bulb style I'm trying to describe. Now my gauges, clock, and HVAC controls all illuminate when I pull the headlight switch out and rotate it counter clockwise, but neither the headlight picture or the fog light symbol illuminate. I tried to use a test light to see if I was even getting current and ended up blowing the 'INST LMPS' fuse. Is the headlight picture suppose to light up with the lights on? The only thing I haven't tried that I can think of is a new bulb, which I will try and do next. Other than that I'm out of ideas. Any body got some 'bright' (pun intended) ideas? Thanks, Sean

I am looking to do this as my cables are looking rough. What lengths/gauges are the cables?

Thats what I started with. Looking at it more and hearing that there is no gasket, I think I will get a new o-ring and try that out. If that doesn't work, I'll drop $60 on a new IAC. Just hard to believe the sensor is bad if the truck is running better than before.

Is there a gasket to seal the IAC to the Throttle Body? I recently cleaned out my throttle body with it installed on the mj, so all I did was remove the intake and sensors. Cleaned the IAC, reinstalled sensors, and did the throttle body cleaning with the mj on. All seemed good, but now when I'm engine braking I get a substantial whistling from the engine bay. Overall the truck does idle better now, it used to almost stall when I was just idling, then catch itself and rev-up way too high. I did see an o-ring as part of the IAC, but there was so much carbon I couldn't tell if there was a very thing gasket or not. As this was the last thing I changed, chances are its the source of the problem. Truck specs - '87 2wd 4.0L 5speed

I run 31s on my stockish MJ. My big advantage is using 15x8s instead of 15x7s, which help out with backspacing. It still rubs the lcas under very abnormal lock situations when turning. As to why to BumpStop - Lifting a rig and adding bumpstops is perfectly normal for a properly setup suspension. Some people don't need the same amount of uptravel as they do down travel. Adding big tires at a small lift heights affords a stable COG, which will help on hill climbs, in the rocks, and most importantly during the off camber stuff.

You can still order them from the dealer, run about 16 bucks. I think you could also order a shift boot from an '05 wrangler manual and have it work. It is fake leather, not the accordin style. I've done the first option with success, but after the fact got to thinking about 'upgrading' to the style my wrangler has.

the inside of my valve cover after 150k what the engine looks like all cleaned up I took the valve cover off to clean it and was discusted when I saw my engine, so I cleaned that too, it took forever to clean. I used seafoam to clean everything and as well as it did, this required a lot of scrubbing.

sucks, glad to hear you are ok.

i thought it was 8mm

If you only leave the outter shafts you should be ok. You need them to hold the integrity of the unit bearing. But you would not be able to do this with the inner shafts attached, because they would flop around destroy themselves/the housing with nothing for them to ride in. Like you said, you would be better of with a 2wd straight axle. I don't see why the brakes wouldn't work though. I have driven sans inner shaft on my driver's side with no affect to braking.

He must not have the mandatory 2+ oil leaks, like all normal comanches! ;) I swear I will do this upgrade one day, just seems to make so much sense.

good info. thanks for the correction.

what does the pumpkin look like? if its an oval its a D35, they also have a plastic fill plug. If its a retarded diamond shape with a metal plug its a D44. Those were to two rears available in your year. Your front is a HP D30. There was a good thread with pictures just the other day. Take a pic of yours if you can and post it. We'll be able to ID it.

jeep gears the Tj with 3.73 with 30" tires and 4.10s with 31" tires. 3.55 will be better than 3.07s but with the manual I think you will be better suited with 4.10s. I run 4.0L, 4.10s with 31s and an AX5 and I think the gearing is perfect. Has normal acceleration and has plently of grunt to drive with a full bed. Not hateful on gas either. I am averaging 18 on my 2wd.

i'm running 31s with a 4.0/manual and I absolutely love it.