JeepcoMJ

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Com ... 5599QQrdZ1 tell me that's better than an AAL with a straight face. I've seen people praise this lift...it doesn't come with control arms, the SOA is shoddy, they didn't give me measurements of before flex to compare (which, it only allowed the truck to go up 1 window on the incline), cut down on all "cheapo" lifts, suggests i keep the inferior prop. valve the comanche was designed with, etc. COME ON, their idea of lift is cheap front springs, 3" coil spacers, and a rear shackle. can you get any CHEAPER?

eh, 3.8 still kickes the crap outta any stock/mildly upgraded 4.0. (gm isn't my first choice either btw...but it's what the bolt pattern on the bellhousing was, and it's a v6) the 3.8 is every bit as bulletproof as a 4.0. anyways, time involved in your truck means keeping it will give you the best comanche you could have, at least in my opinion. save up some money and do some sort of engine swap...heck, put a 4.0 in it. buy some cherokee parts truck with a good motor, tranny, and cooling system, change out the header panel and header support panel, swap wiring harnesses, and bolt the sucker in. It isn't that hard, and will give you the truck you want, with the power you want.

x2

I DO pay only 13 bucks a filter at most for a filter, and it's Wix brand too.

Do the oil filters for the 4.0 cost more then the 2.5 :D Charles I was estimating on the high end of things.

now sporting 145 amp alternator. doesn't go below 13 with EVERYTHING on. runs at a constant, steady 14 amps. took the front end bra off...didn't like it, it's not tough... I also cleaned all the pitting off of the brush guard I am using with a polishing wheel on my angle grinder...looks great. now i have to sand it a bit to remove the lines caused by the angle grinder, sandblast the rest of it, and paint it. then the push bar part of it will be done. a friend of mine is making me hoops for around my headlights and turn signals, as he has access to a pipe bender..1" diameter solid steel pipe is what he's using, he's just making the hoop bends, i get to cut off for length. then the waggy front clip will probably go on it in a month or so...I may use that for the 89 when I get it...

oh. that's what I'm missing...an MJ that can actually go offroad... haha, with my intake right now I'd hydrolock in the lowest of puddles (it's behind the front skid plate), and with the camaro computer being in the engine bay...well, let's just say it's not a good idea. we'll see how ready the 89 will be by then (should be, i'm taking out a 5,000 dollar loan to buy it + the parts I'll need for a lift...$1000 for truck, leaves 4k for improvements)

wow pete, wow

3.8 is a buick motor buddy.

works for me. I'm good anytime, i've got enough notice that I can request off

86 dana 35's use roll pins. at the very least take out the jb welded pin and put in a roll pin...it'll work and no threading needed

My old Nissan Patrol had the battery under the driver's seat (though technically not "in" the cab, as there was an access panel as a cover. Whenever the voltage regulator took a crap (frequently), I would be bathed in off-gases. Not very pleasant. old VW beetles had them under the rear seat. they frequently dropped through the steel pan and to the pavement because the battery trays would rust out. LMAO! that HAPPENED to me! built a dunebuggy with that one after removing the body, replacing the floorpan and shortening the entire pan by 6 inches.

why was the "small pin" threaded? it SHOULD have a roll pin or a threaded bolt. if no threads, then a bolt...if no threads and your "small pin" had threads, someone f*d with it and put the wrong thing in it. get a new one, the jb won't hold.

don't EVER hold off on changing the oil filter. for a 13 dollar part and the fact that you've already drained it, and the fact that you could do ALOT more damage by not changing it. anyways, I run synth in my engine, just the parts master brand bumper to bumper carries, 10w30 year round. NEVER run synthetic in an aw4 tranny, it self-destructs with that. and tcase should be auto tranny fluid, axles I run synthetic.

rocker action was an option. just look at what you buy if you change. if it doesn't have that rocking action, and it's in an xj, it will work great

that makes NO sense...why would jeep waste the time to provision for different pilot bearing equipped crankshafts? It would make more sense to simplly make pilot bearings that fit the transmission and a STANDARD size crank pilot outside diameter (whatever diameter they decided on). that makes me mad actually, tha'ts REALLY dumb.

don't sell it, put a 3.4 or a 3.8 camaro engine in it. that's the exact truck I had before I put my 3.8 in it, and it's BETTER than any 4.0 out there (except strokers/supercharged ones). :thwak: I would say 1992 4.0 HO AX15 short bed with a D44 out of a older Manche (edit: just found out D44's were available in all but 1986 Comanches) why you gots to hit me? I wasn't lyin!

not to mention that mineral oil has GOT to be flammable...me no likey the idea of lighting my desk/house/computer on fire

the one for a 4.0 with an ax15 tranny. it's the EXACT one you'd need, so it's the one that you'd need to get...rather than piecing them together. never put a "new" tranny in without replacing the clutch...unless you know the clutch is low miles or new.

don't sell it, put a 3.4 or a 3.8 camaro engine in it. that's the exact truck I had before I put my 3.8 in it, and it's BETTER than any 4.0 out there (except strokers/supercharged ones). gas mileage with 3.55 gears is about 22 mpg too. I say you have what you have now, spend the money and keep your baby, just improve her...get a dodge dakota 4 cyl ax15 5 speed tranny, or even just an ax5, np231 tcase, and your choice of the two listed engines, bolt it all in and voila! I can get you any wiring diagrams you would need for the swap. let me know. also, for ideas, check out my Project MJ 3800 thread...it's the entire swap on that page to the 3.8

remove the seats, take out the 4 bolts on the bottom of the frame that remove the lower upholstry. spray the sh*t out of the rocker section w/ pb blaster and the hinge for the big plastic handle. get it free and moving, clean the pb blaster off, put together, reinstall. I put the same seats in my truck, and yes, they sit high. the only remedy for that is to chop down your comanche lower brackets and reweld them, or get a regular xj bracket and do the whole thing over. I'm keeping mine because I like sitting higher in the cab (I'm 6'1" too). my head doesn't hit the ceiling, and the single problem that I have is that the rearview mirror is now too low on the windshield...I would like to remove it and mount it higher up.

hmm....i bet working on one is kinda slimy

ebay. type in headliner fabric, material, whatever. comes in all sorts of different sizes, and colors. pick the best suited color, and order it, with some spares. shipped to you and bought for less than 20 bucks (in my experience), and it's good quality material. then proceed as stated above.

that's a deal

so why does it work with the liquid in it? kinda dumb...it would be nicer if it incorporated the CD drive INTO the tank, and if the tank were seperated into a running liquid free computer, and an actual aquarium