JeepcoMJ

Let see, use metal on the flares, so when (yes I say when cause it will) you hit them on a tree wheeling you don't just rip the flare off, you damage the bed even more. That sounds like a brilliant idea... Front flares are going to be trimmed to that height as well. So why let it go down further in the front when they will all eventually match? You do as you please to your rig... Maybe in the future bite your tounge before you say something like that when you have yet to see the finished results. Heck I don't even have the drivers side flare mounted, nor the front flare even painted yet as I have yet to see how much clearance I'm going to need to clear the tires... that was not a personal attack, but an opinion. I should say that, the flare WOULD crack off of the small 1" chunk of angle iron. I have seen 5 of these swaps done on xj's and that's what they do. that and I can see worrying ALOT about that with a rig that's not dented up already...but if you dent it by hitting a tree, you dent it. *shrug* no biggy. as for biting my tongue, I don't do that....I say things the way I see them, and respect when others do the same. it makes life simpler when you remove politics. unless when you're pregnant wife asks if she's fat....;) I DO like the truck, I just would have done things differently...if you look @ my projects you'll see that I'm anal about fit and finish :nuts: , and I also have a biased opinion as that's a swap I'm doing and I already researched it and visualized it a different way... nice lift btw

those flares look terrible...you should not have cut the height down at all, and just trimmed it to fit the body lines of the comanche. simple to do, and end result is the bottom mount has to be a small piece of angle iron. I have a pair of these, and they are goin on the 89 with a set of the front flares and reflectors on the front.

look at a vw jetta years 92 on up, or a gti, or a rabbit, or a golf. they hardly ever break, they look good stock, and are easily fixed. don't even consider a vw passat, they're a rat-bastard of wiring. I should know, I owned one, and bypassed most every stock controller, switch, etc. because when one went bad, they all did. stupid integrated wiring crap.

they were I believe, BUT it's already at the jy as stated.

he wants to, but don't wanna wheel his MJ in any rocky terrain (anything that could kill or dent the body up), and he is sick of mud so idk. Joe (beaterjeep) is coming with me. the 89 is the vehicle I will have...but at the moment it looks as though i may not have a towing rig, which means that I would drive it down..honestly, I don't think I wanna risk breaking it and being stranded. or driving there with a 228,000 mile motor :P so searching for a tow rig now.

new front axle on it's way. hi-pinion out of a 98 xj, non-disco, 3.73 gears to match my 3.73 ford 8.8 rear axle.

no, his 86 is a 2.1 Renault Turbo Diesel, which is factory. it needs a new floor pan, new right bedside, alot of cleaning, a new motor (got one for $75. when I say new, I mean NEW as in never run new) due to the cracked head (can't repair, have tried 3 times), new tranny, and a lift. it's stock dark blue and will be getting the same color with silver-metalic mixed into it, along with the old light blue interior out of the 3800.

wow

*shrug* not gonna happen, I don't need to bother with it anymore...I will be fixing up and probably driving my dad's 2.1 as a DD cause he likes the 89 alot. he agreed that I can do what I want to the diesel as long as he gets to drive the 89 until he buys a new cummins.

OR you make it useful like that, but still paneled with the DOOR covering the hole...so that it doesn't appear to have storage, but actually DOES when you open the door. that way it wouldn't look flat out ghey

I'd rather have the look of club cab, as with xj rear doors you would have to meld in the comanche stiker to make it into a full door (wheel well openings). if ya do it, and leave the wheel well openings and fill them rather than makin the door square, I'll personally see to it that it's wrecked. j/k about that, but it would look like $#!&!

I'm leavin when you leave Wade, let's work together...I've never been there and you can get me there in 1 piece :D

haha, i wish i was doing it...but the idea is dead. won't happen for years to come, I sold the g-van, scrapped the j10 frame I had, and the truck I was using as a base is gonna be junked once i get the good parts off of it. I will follow this thread if you wish to expand upon it...:D

me too, on red, black, or grey bucket or bench.

sand blaster. tape off what you don't want blasted, or smear grease over it (grease absorbs sand so metal underneath doesn't get blasted)

oh, and I'm getting some 2" lca's from Brent on here, and have a length vs. height chart for both upper and lower control arms...so I'm making my own non-adjustable ones. trackbar will be stock for now with a drop bracket. I have a nice pitman arm from an xj that's for a 6.5" lift...so that will probably go on. it needs a steering stabilizer for the larger tires, and an alignment. will be running 5.5" RC coils, YJ front brake lines, dodge dakota rear brake line, and doing a shackle lift on the rear for the moment...it's already got 1 ton rear leafs or a lift pack in the rear. not too sure, but w/e it's all good :D anyways, 33's will be my driving tires I guess, and when I go to the badlands on the 10th, I'll most likely run my 31's for articulation. longarm...well, at $899 right now, I may as well just make my own control arms and just spend a total of $3 to 4 hundred on the lift at most with the shocks that I want and my own ideas. heck, I even get to make my own arc in the LCA's to allow for better articulation :D

after getting under it and looking at it CLOSELY (yea, forgot to do that), we found that this sucker has NEW ball joints, brakes, front ujoints, ALL driveshaft ujoints, and rear brake pads :brows: . also, clutch slave cylinder appears new recently (as far as we can see) but the master cylinder and the line need replaced we think. clutch feels very new, but the master is DEFINITELY leaking. man, this thing is CLEAN! :bowdown: :D :eek: :cheers: 8) :chillin: thought it was gonna be :redX:

good luck

only wierd thing I see on the carrier, other than the fact that it's probably LSD, is the scrapes on it from something being blown up in it before... man, it looks pretty scratched up...

xj into a trailer.

thanks, that's perfect!

okay, so for NOW while I wait for the new credit card to come or a loan to clear (I make money, just not enough to get the 89 done by the 10th of august with a TNT longarm....which is being budgeted for), I am gonna lengthen a set of 2" lift lower control arms. what I need to know is, for 5.5" of lift, what is the ideal length of the lower control arms from eye to eye. also, what is the ideal length for the upper control arms eye to eye?

yea, if it costs an arm and a leg it won't be happening...

IDC if there's a hole in the block... What I really need is 1 good head, a turbo, intake, exhaust manifold, and a transmission, flywheel, and starter. I have a good block, but the engines require a specific transmission input shaft (i need one for a ax5 tranny.

get me a line on the diesels. pronto. phone number, info, anything...I OWN one and would like parts for it, and to build another one. oh, and please