JeepcoMJ

Yes, and most engineers are completely inept. Mopar recommends 50 ft lbs on an stud for the oil cooler on an 06 kj diesel. That doesn't make them right. They use that because it was the cheapest way to get away from the damaging additives in regular gear lube. Read that again. THE CHEAPEST WAY. Cheap in no way, shape, or form, is the proper or even mediocre solution.

Engine oil is a terrible idea. Run the redline. It has the necessary additives and detergents, and does not have the ones that Are harmful to the brass synchros. The weight of that oil doesn't come close to being accurate for what you need in gear lube.

My bet, it is either a 4.0 with a bad rear main or pan gasket, or a 2.5 4cyl with blowby or clogged breathers (PCV system) causing the oil crankcase to pressurize and push out the oil dipstick tube or crank breathers. Seen both, been a victim of both.

I can respect that. If you look back in the history you will find that my negative posts are disproportionate to my positive posts. And I would offer the opinion that not everyone feels the need to be liked. I certainly don't. People who can't stand up to blatant opinions are not among my friends, or people who I value in my life. Reality is we are all here to be accepted, not liked. Unfortunately some of us (myself included) can be more frustrating to deal with.

And it is much appreciated. Just hope everyone knows that theory and fact are different, a postulated idea is not a reasonable solution until proven, and many of us feel that there is enough theory being had lately. I am done now. The point has been made by all.

I know, right? Way to go on my part, sidelining a thread, but it was headed there anyways. This is something cruiser and I have been discussing privately.

Buffalo, I'm with you. SO Let's start a new rule: NO SIDELINING THREADS. A.K.A. OYAJI, stop posting unless your crap is directly relative to factual basis of the problem at hand, and drop the theory and distraction. He does that, we stop arguing with him, favoritism goes away. Here's the deal: Cruiser and I are the "A-holes" right now. We are, because we are the only ones actively trying to stop the crap. Our stuff gets deleted because we point out the flaws of a person who has pointless offerings, his stuff stays even though it is the cause and we are the effect. If we can do that, we can all be happy. We all get treated accordingly, and we have no problems. The issue at hand is that there are those of us who respond to his b.s. and even though our responses are effectively doing the same as his, we are somehow the problem. The problem is not Cruiser or I. The problem is that favoritism is in effect, in that pointless posts are not being moderated equally. Real simple to solve. start deleting pointless posts, regardless of intent or content.

Guys, it pretty much boils down to cruiser's and my personal opinion of a certain overblown windbag ego stroker on the forum. Obviously not one of the mods, but a certain someone who seems to derail most every thread they engage in. I feel the same way you do cruiser.

According to Ebay, it is already sold. He has entered a legal binding contract to sell it to whomever has purchased it. SO, unless that person was you, you're probably SOL, as Sergio is a good guy and doesn't screw people over like that. You don't want it anyways.

Let it snow. I make more money that way.

You know, I really guess I just don't care what way you do it. Either way will get the job done, one way is the wrong way to do it correctly, the other takes skill.. I wouldn't ever rivet any metal panel together, be it floor or body panel. Just too nasty and unclean of a job, and bringing things like spending the time to drill or de-burr all of those holes. That will take more time. Do as you wish, I am disinterested.

In the engine bay is a ceramic resistor, on the driver's side of the inner fender. Unplug the two wires from it and take a piece of wire with two bare male spade connectors on it, hook those two wires together. The resistor may have failed. test it after that, and let us know if the truck will start/or if the fuel pump will whine. After that, it's possible it's a relay, but more likely that it's the pump.

Jim, definitely on board with the history of rivets. OYAJI is quite correct about the quality issues at the time in the metal. The residual stress spoken of isn't as apparent when we're talking about 3/16" rivets and the adequate holes drilled (as you know, a circle is quite strong with the main benefit of being the single best way to stop cracks from beginning or spreading). The heating and cooling effect on sheet metal is not going to play into strength issues when it comes to floors. It will play into cause of corrosion by burning off the protective coating on the steel...and a lack of proper coating to prevent further corrosion afterwards. Unfortunately, during the wars, there wasn't so much a lack of skilled labor as there was a lack of money to pay for skilled labor. A good welder can be trained in months, so long as they aren't stupid from the get-go.

Well, everyone has excuses. Rivets will do fine, but not on a vehicle that you want to keep long term. It's been done time and again, and it almost always comes back having rotted out again, mere years down the road.

Personally, with all of the information you seem to throw around, I think it's a bit laughable that you haven't read a million books on welding to consider yourself an expert there, too. Really, with welding floors, it doesn't have to be perfect. It's actually a perfect thing to learn on because of that. Go buy a cheap used wire feed gas MIG and go at it. You really should develop that skill.

I would respectfully disagree. You are talking stainless on dirty steel riveting. You cannot get all impurities out of 20+ year old metal, especially since it has corroded. Even if you get it as clean as possible, you are combining un-like metals when you rivet instead of weld. The rivets open up more chance of leakage and corrosion as you have opened more surface area to water penetration with every hole drilled, regardless of sealant used or not. It can't possibly last as long as the factory spot welds.

Indeed. Interestingly, a glued lap joint can be stronger than the base material: So is a properly prepped and layed weld. I guess the real question on the subject should be "how soon do you feel like doing the work again?"

If you rivet floors, you will want to use an abundant amount of sealant between the pieces. You will also want to spray everything with rust-proofing paint prior to installing the rivets, but after drilling the holes if you can do so. Anything else will just rust back. A sheet metal break will be almost a necessity to do it right and bend the angles on the outside edge to rivet to the inner rocker. I would advise welding over riveting. It lasts longer.

OYAJI, I'm stepping on your toes. get bent. What you THINK, is less than what I KNOW, when it comes to these trucks. And here's the problem. EVERY post you have is about THINKING when the KNOWN knowledge is there, and you are pretty much ignoring that fact, filling every post with whimsical BS

Still not valuable information that answers any questions in this thread. I will say this once. Emissions testing is a load of squat. There is no benefit to economy in it. It is fictitious, made up standards, and non beneficial. Find me a vehicle that has benefited from emissions. All they do is require vehicles to pass a standard that was voted on, and often times that actually harm fuel economy. 1986 jeep MJ or xj with 2.8l. I don't think I need to say anything else on the subject.

Thank you!

They actually design everything to pass EPA standards with best economy based off of the limitations and restrictions they were tied to. Which is NOT to say that they were ever designed for the best fuel economy. It actually states quite the contrary.

To jump immediately to the conclusion that it is driving habits, especially when this is a TECH QUESTION....really? check the basics. make sure timing is correct. 15-16 in the city is about right for a good running 4.0, but you should be able to get 19-22 easy on the highway. those mustang 5.0 injectors are GOOD injectors. They have a multi-spray pattern that atomizes fuel better. The problem with that...you also need to increase airflow. a bored throttle body would help. Throttle body spacers DO NOT and cannot help on a MPFI engine, because the fuel is sprayed after the spacer. The problem with the 5.0 injectors is that they have a higher pressure rating. They are flowing more fuel than stock, and you haven't done enough to increase airflow to compensate for the higher amount of fuel...resulting in more unspent fuel. Upgrades for airflow. Well...a true cold air intake would help, but throwing on a K&N filter pack will NOT because the filters allow more particles to pass through, and are not cold air without the proper, sealed from engine bay, shielding. mid 99+ intake manifold. Great mod. I doubt it adds 15hp/30ft/lbs torque like they say, but it does massively improve intake airflow with the curved runner design. You would have to buy or make an adapter for the renix throttle body, which would negate any gains, as well as port match it to your head. The best way is to use the H.O. throttle body, intake elbow, and airbox. You can solder in the TPS wires, or buy/make a TPS adapter to bolt the renix TPS it to the H.O. throttle body. Exhaust. Not enough can be said. Opening up the header will help...a lot. Going much past 2.25" exhaust, though, won't. Going too big negates back-pressure, and costs you venturi effect that helps more or less siphon exhaust through rather than the engine having to lumber and push the entire amount with no help. I've ran a number of headers on mine. APN seems to be the best. Just moving the collectors downward with a smoother (and wide open) radius on the bends helps immensely. Cams. Not enough can be said about the proper camshaft. Everyone forgets about it with these 4.0's. There's a HUGE power loss in the factory cams. They are set to have HP and TQ meet at 2200-2400RPM. How often does the motor stay at that RPM once you attain desired speed? A "torquer" series cam will drop that range. I've always used Crane or Comp cams, torquer series, designed to drop that range down to 1700-1900RPM. This is where I've found the needle sitting at speed. Doing a lot of these mods will help. I got 19mpg mixed driving out of my 7" lifted 87 MJ with H.O. built 4.0 that had a torquer cam, 99 intake, borla header, mustang 5.0 injectors, 62mm bored TB, adjustable map (also a good idea), aw4 auto on 33x10.50 and 35x12.50 mud terrains with MT axles and 4.10 gears. Got 20-23mpg on highway. Same motor put in my 99 5 speed XJ averaged me 20-25mpg depending. Rather than throwing other parts at it to allow you to stick with the mustang injectors, though...put a good clean set of stock injectors back in, and see how it works.

On board with that. Been awhile since I've touched a renix jeep, except to remove the motor and stuff one of my H.O strokers and OBD2 harness in.

Curiosity for you. Two things: #1 Check to make sure CPS wire isn't laying on exhaust manifold. This is the crankshaft position sensor, located in roughly the 11 o'clock position (from driver's seat) of the transmission bellhousing. It runs up and over the back of the exhaust manifold, but is supposed to have a clip that keeps it from laying on it. A CPS getting melted/heated will have higher resistance in the wires, and effect how it runs. #2 Obviousness of checking spark plugs and wires, making sure that they've been done sometime recently (not 10 years ago lol). With that, remove the distributor cap and make sure that the contacts look nice. Make sure, while you're at it, that the distributor shaft bushings aren't worn out and that it has no side to side play.