JeepcoMJ

the front housings are all the same, and all of the ones I have (mixed between 2wd and 4wd) have the fillers on the left hand side of the case, midway up, and towards the front of the case.

and now an ax5 rebuild only takes me 3 to 5 hours depending on whether I have to tear apart multiple transmissions for parts, or if I have the parts in my ever-growing ax5 parts pile... not to mention the 4 dana 35's It's eaten through...the last of which shot teeth through the diff cover.... :clapping:

maybe want to swap a cummings 3.9 or the newer 3.3 like someone had a pic of it in a TJ in your spare time not stock. going for a factory resto-mod.

On a rig used mainly for wheeling, which he has already stated his is, I do not see why this is such a problem to you. Mine is in the tank and it will fail too, I think his idea is great because if that pump fails, you just go get another one and put it in (10 minute job). If you can change your OE style (that's in the tank) pump in 10-20 minutes, while your rig is sitting between a rock and a hard place (or muddy place), then you can critique his setup all you want. :thwak: safety and avoiding fire. use pumps as designed.

okay... coming from a guy who used to bmx at the skate park, has been sky-diving (with intention to do it again), parasailing, and hang-gliding, I would only do that with a parachute (which wouldn't stand a chance at actually working, but just may get snagged on a tree on the way down...and still save my life). Hell, I want to go base jumping, and I wouldn't do the mountain run.

it will work fine, until it fails, which it will. ingenious, and I give you props. but, it will fail unless you are extremely lucky. may not be for two years, or it may be in two days. who knows :dunno:

cost of materiel, time, and labor would pretty much make them the same cost as the lund ones are new. I need to get one for the 3800, but it needs to be more contoured...with a better, smoother flow.

10-4 and thanks. it's getting the springs from my old '89 that I lifted though, to give it the 4" lift in the back with boomerang shackles. going for a 4.5" lift.

perhaps I should word it differently; from a mathamatical standpoint, by dropping your t-case after adding shackles by the same percent, you could potentially create a driveshaft angle which puts the transfercase output shaft and the rear axle pinion within the same acceptable parameters as it was from factory. :smart:

OME is probably THE best stuff out there. You would seriously buy Rough Country rather than OME? I feel faint ... I look at this the way I look at snowmobiles. I ride yamaha, because it's all manufactured together and made to go together. the craftsmanship is excellent, and while it may not be the fastest thing out there, or the most extreme thing out there, I've never once seen a yamaha fail except from neglect on the owner's behalf. that said, I know most suspension manufacturers out-source their springs, and the only ones that I have seen fail were Rusty's. However, I cannot say I'm impressed with the craftsmanship of OME components (from what little I've seen). I've never once in my life seen an OME dealer, nor do I know anyone running OME parts on any sort of vehicle. the lift kit they have on their comanche scares me, and so I would not run that kit. but, at least it's not Rusty's.

Um, if I rotate the pinion up slightly from shackles, and then drop the t-case down slightly, wouldn't that compound the angle problem rather than canceling it? geometry pete. mvusse is correct...with the pinion angled up, if you were to lift the transfercase, it will actually change the angles more dramatically. by lowering it so the output is lowered multiple degrees, and raising the pinion a couple degrees, you keep a stock operating angle. I'd just not go this way about things, and I would buy rear springs for a 4.5" lift, and not drop the transfercase. I beat the crap out of my tranny x-member and I'm at 6.5" of lift, going over some fairly mild things too.

yep. I'm just figuring based on someone else's motor build at this point...design stages. I'm running a factory 2001 grand prix harness so I will not need to do any math or altering with it. design stages still :dunno:

back. working on the new motor for the 87 this weekend, and cleaning the shop up. then out to illinois for work all next week, back for the weekend to remove the motor from the 3800 because I need to order the connecting rods that it will need, and get it out to machine shop for a .050 bore, and to shave the heads and deck down...need to get compression down but surface area up to run the supercharger :brows: then yank the motor, trans, and wiring from the 87 too.

carnuck wins.

i think he already owns it? :???: :dunno:

:hijack: :banana: agreed. wahoo, done.

haha. thanks. here's my other quote of the night from a discussion with 89eliminator... we think it's sig-worthy, but I already look like enough of an a$$hole so... :dunno:

it has a really big bumper so I can hit $#!& with it... er... :oops: that's mine. um. well, what's NOT to like about them. a father could buy one for his son, and put bucket seats in it, having full peace of mind that there won't be any grandchildren created in it anytime soon (I've tried :eek: , there is NOT enough room)....and the son can gladly take delight in the fact that it comes equipped with it's very own bed :brows:

I haven't had or heard of any parts failures from rough country, save a few MOOG trackbar bushings. they even stand behind their brand and replace trackbars when you bend them or destroy them doing stupid stuff...IF you can manage to do so. I hear and see nothing but failures and difficult repairs from rusty's. so, is rough country good?...it's better than some. would I buy RE or motion offroad over RC?...yup. would I buy RC over Old Man Emu? hell yes. would I buy all of them over Rusty's? hands down, yes.

oh, for clarification, ROUGH COUNTRY is the good kit. never, ever ever buy anything from Rusty's. if it ever comes to failure (which Krusty's is known for), it could be lethal.

good kit. tell them to remove the transfercase drop from the deal. you don't want, nor do you need it. you have a longer wheelbase and will not have the same vibration issues that cherokee will. should save you a couple bucks.

olive drab grey with the military MJ logo. perhaps for an extra fee, with our screen names on the back accross the shoulders.

you have to whip out your drill. drill some holes in the pinch weld (measure accordingly...the bolts are already on the running boards), assemble the running boards, mark mounting holes, drill, then use self-tapping bolts to finish it off. my advice... cut out the aluminum verticals, and make your own steel ones. the aluminum on body sheetmetal causes corrosion, and also with the vertical part intact, you cannot wash your floorboards or up behind the bedsides. it WILL rust, and it will be very bad. I got a swb 89 MJ with absolutely immactulate floors and inside of the bed, at 250k on the ticker, and the rockers and bedsides were GONE. my best advice, sell the running boards on ebay. if you really want the steps, get tube sidesteps for it (they are still available but hard to find), because they won't interfere with maintenance and they won't cause near as much corrosion.

very nice. don't move the seat forward :eek: :D

everything is for sale. how do you think I get all of my MJ's? it's not like they're on the edge of the road for sale...