JeepcoMJ

my bet is that it's just a chevy/gmc product. and that I have no idea why you're surprised about it breaking :P :yes: :clapping:

i didn't know that?! :eek: :hmm:

schreader valve is on the fuel rail, not the pressure regulator. it is normal to get fuel out of the schraeder valve. it is NOT normal to get no fuel from it when depressed. sounds to me that your CPS has failed. it's probably melted to the exhaust manifold. Uhhhhhh Yea the Fuel pressure regulator plugs into the front of the fuel rail check it out yo...... :chillin: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... 4%26um%3D1 yeah. um. reread. then pull foot out of mouth. then learn proper interpretation of written explanations. he said nothing to do with the pressure regulator, and everything to do with fuel coming from the schraeder valve, which is in itself a completely different thing from a pressure regulator, and is not an indication of fuel in vacuum lines. I think you jumped a few bridges to what is most likely the wrong conclusion

lol. I think I am the only one wanting to drink. *shrug*. I probably won't get hammer drunk, but I won't be willing (or able) to get behind the wheel of my MJ

Ok there should be no fuel in the vaccume line if there is you need to replace the fuel pressure regulator. :agree: schreader valve is on the fuel rail, not the pressure regulator. it is normal to get fuel out of the schraeder valve. it is NOT normal to get no fuel from it when depressed. sounds to me that your CPS has failed. it's probably melted to the exhaust manifold.

yes there is a problem. this whole thread is a joke. the answer is NO YOU CANNOT run different ratios. if you do run different ratios, such as (example) 4.88's rear 4.56's front youd need a tire size that's two or three sizes bigger in the rear than in the front. don't quote me, that's not EXACT, and it's the worst idea ever. so. let's end any discussion on it before this turns into an attention getting thread and becomes a joke across jeep forums. because the answer is no, and that's dictated by common sense and basic knowledge of rotational force.

you're always drunk right? so bon fire at your place after the show or what? no not always. just need to make up for the past two birthdays, and it just so happens that that's the week I'm able to again. likely gonna do a bonfire here after that. probably gonna depend on weather.

done deal. long as I don't have to d/d to jefferson... I'd like to be the drunk guy all day if I can...

few things. 1. none of you on this forum should be buying and using flux core welders. it's one strong @$$ weld, but it takes an EXPERT to use correctly. EVERY bead layed with flux core must then be chipped and brushed before making another pass, otherwise you will just build up a pile of crap metal that won't bond to anything, and end up breaking whatever you weld. I'll get some of my brother's flux core pictures. he's a welder at Bucyrus, manufacturing large (110 ton and higher, no thinner than 5" steel but up to 2 feet thick), and they use flux core. flux core (when done right) is capable of holding 500lbs per inch of weld. But again, if you can't weld now, or have little to no experience, it's not the welder for you. 2. Tig welders are necessary for welding aluminum....if you're an amature or a very anal professional. But tig welders will give you the best looking welds, and are capable of welding extremely strong. given the choice, I'd buy a Tig over a MIG any day....but I do more sheet metal welding than anything. my brother is buying a miller 220 TIG for $2000, and that's a good price. 3. Mig welders are handy. from quick repairs to heavy welding....a 220 MIG is capable of what you need. an extremely good welder can weld aluminum with a MIG, but a beginner shouldn't try (unless practicing on scraps). This would probably be your best bet. you can find these used or for decent prices for under or around $800

lol. post june 4th is my belated 21st birthday celebration. IDC when and the only thing I want is to get boozd up.

that works. I won't be driving anything because I'm gonna be THAT GUY. (the one who's too hammer drunk to flip a light switch). bonfire as well.

that's odd. when I could fill my tank (before sending unit started leaking) I could put 21 gallons in it easily.

Big Jump between 500 and 5000... :dunno: :yes:

Hi, my name is Pat, and I'm an alco....er....jeepaholic. *ahem*. hail from Burlington, WI

anyone interested? I have a place I can host in SE WI

the springs look like they are from your seats to make it spring forward when you push the lever. the cable looks like a brake part.

What you don't want LeadnotFallow in there? :dunno: I think that it is a great idea. I will nominate Darren to be the NorthWest Chaplin. If there is anyway that I can help let me know. lol. if I ever run into him on the trails...it won't be a pretty site. he's got every bad person I know trumbed times 10.

no comments other than that I'm about 99.9% sure that motion offroad didn't actually have any hand in fabricating, designing, or testing the cage. so, you're guess is about as good as the "suppliars" as to how good the cage would be.

hey man, we've all been there. just got done with that phase myself. after some coaxing from friends etc. the truck is going up to the next level. my reason was somewhat different than yours...I just feel bad trashing a perfectly restoreable comanche. more-so, I don't want to wreck a nice bed...they're hard to find. but, going bedless has given me options....so that is what I will do. just hang in there. hang up the towel (so to speak) on the MJ for awhile, and when you're good and ready, get to work on her again.

too much tongue weight...move the axle forward, or add another axle. other than that, looks good.

well it looks nice. but being 2wd I would never have accepted it.

....if you do it Pete, I vote 89eliminator as the great lakes chairman.

agree with Pete. also, you really need one from the same year, same engine in order for the gauges to work properly. otherwise, if you get one w/ a different engine or 87-90, you will have to adjust the tachometer pulse. that isn't hard...you just need to unscrew/screw in an adjustment screw inside the cluster on the tach gear. it's tedious though...requiring that you install and remove the assembly several times before it's correct.

have you had the distributor out of the truck? did you take it out and then have a no-start issue? or did it run bad and then stop running? ....my guess is that one of two things is happening; your distributor is not "indexed" properly (the distributors are non-adjustable to timing, however you CAN adjust it by removing it, turning the gear drive/oil pump key, and putting it back in. OR your CPS is picking up rotation, but not at the right time. that could be simply a failing CPS, or a cracked flexplate/flywheel, or improperly mounted CPS (one bolt missing/lose on it)

either/or. pub would probably get more attention tho. as you've noted...not many people make it farther south on the forum.