JeepcoMJ

hehehe. gotta love the badlands I went fast, there were bumps, divots, etc. and all sorts of other stuff. I believe it had been slowly bending all day as steering got worse through the day. got some trail rash on the pass. side cab corner/rocker too but nothing big. other than that I just lost all of my shock bushings on the way down (threw in cheapo RC's so I didn't have to get bumpstops done for the edelbrocks) all-in-all I think everyone had a fun time. I sure did....not even mad either. drove over 200 miles home like that without so much as a hiccup. :j: more pics

I need to follow the link but... how did you make the gauges work? what did you do instead? you really cannot convert them to actually work without making an interface ECU to interpret the proper sensor input to convert it the right signal for the gauges.

headed out right now :D

I don't know what the big deal is. :dunno: there's this little skinny pedal you push. all you need to do is throw it in gear and push this pedal and acceleration should occur. if no acceleration/improper acceleration occurs then it is time to scratch your head and kick it a few times. :banana: :rotf: in all seriousness though, the only problems I have with my aw4 are when I put it in bypass mode by doing forward to reverse drops too fast when I'm tuggin someone else out.

I've run both styles. I actually prefer HEIM joints to TRE's. for ease of removal in order to adjust. yes, the HEIM's go out faster....but at least I can get the darn thing out without fearing for smashing my hand up while getting the TRE out. I don't have fancy TRE pullers so my tool of choice on TRE's is a BFH and a BF crobar. what I would really like is to have one like my brother's on his xj (forget what brand) that just has a rubber bushing on each end and uses a HD brace up top. combine that with one like hornbrod's with the adjuster sleeve, and I'd be happier than a pig in s$$t

swaybar discos temp'd to work for this trip. front brake lines dropped to accomodate the flex....even with the longer dakota lines I'm afraid they'll break. not gonna redo rear shock mounts....I just threw on a set of my $#!&ty RC rear shocks so I don't have to worry about damaging them, and I don't have to mess with rear bumpstops for this trip. left to do; grease everything up re-seal gas tank sending unit with seal-all on the O-ring and sending unit to stop the leak (sending unit has a couple of pitts on the O-ring surface and so it leaks) prep rear 33x10.50 bfg m/t's and swap my best tread 33x10.50 bfg a/t's onto the front pack trail gear remove front brake dust shields top off all fluids install mounting disc for GPS on dash. that should pretty much be it on the truck to get me to and through this trip :D -Pat

well....the bed has been bobbed, and most likely would have been off if he had any comprehension of doing it properly (which I'm sure he does). he probably forgot to put the spacers between the mounts and bed when he reinstalled.

Sounds like a cut'n'weld what, do you think I can't read? I'm telling you that I've seen it before, and I'm pretty sure that that is NOT the case. I'll dig up his sale thread I believe it's on naxja...but I'm almost positive that this is NOT a cut and weld. I don't guarantee that, but I am saying that this may be an ill-thought explanation by the owner of what the 97+ conversion actually is. good day.

this guy is on another forum I'm on...may have been on here even. I don't think he did a chop'n'weld conversion...pretty much positive that it's a simple front end conversion and bed bob with a nice lift, in which case the chassis hasn't been fubar'd and the whole vehicle is worth what he is asking for it.

it's cool man. beaterjeep may be coming with now (by may I mean is. we got him covered for the trip :D) I'm just about ready for the trip. with the help of wade, aaron, mike, and zach (mike and zach were moral support earlier today when I was wrestling with the trackbar mount), we got alot done. (everything is used but new to truck lol) new HEIM on trackbar new HD trackbar mount new steering box brace new nuts on UCA body side bolts (they had fallen off somewhere... :hmm: :rant: :idea: ) front bumpstops complete (thanks to Aaron and his redneck ideas...we used my Hi-Lift, ratchet straps, and crobars to pop the pass. side coil out so I could drill the bucket for the hockey puck bumpstops) new rear diff fluid (I was concerned about a noise coming from the rear so I popped it and drained it, cleaned it, resealed filled and done) I also removed my swaybar links so I can throw the old RC discos back on it for the trip until I re-engineer my POS JKS discos. need to do: new upper and lower rear shock mounts, triangulated new rear bumpstops swaybar discos bfg m/t's thrown on the rear grease everything finish h20 proofing the cab find a better ground for the CB antenna if there is time, I will also drain the front diff and weld the spiders...I have a manual vacuum switch for the disco, so it won't affect my road driving :D hopefully gonna get off work early today and then I can get the rear shocks and such done, and thursday before I go to my night job I'll finish the rest of it.

yea everything is different. just to check, you did want a renix harness correct? that's what the ad said lol. Anyways. you need the complete engine bay EVERYTHING including coolant system. complete dash EVERYTHING including all electrical components, wiring and it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade to the H.O.'s heaterbox (may be a newer R-series if it has a/c than the old R-12 that's in renix). there is not one thing that is direct swap between renix and H.O., save that the engine and trans mount the same. you will need to splice the XJ harness in the driver's side foot well to the MJ's rear harness. I used what was left of the renix dash harness, cut out the dash side connector of the rear harness from it, and cut the cherokee's rear harness right after the connector on the rear harness side, and made a small "jumper" harness out of them so I didn't hack up either harness. -Pat

out here, if the engine is still in the car, it's because it's junk anyways. if it's in it and good, the car is labeled as such and God help you if you pull that VC off

DAMMIT! :fs1:

any 1991 or newer 2.5 jeep engine has an aluminum cover. it's similar to the 4.0 cover just shorter obviously. head out to the junkyard. it's bolt-on. I've done two. you'll need to do some hose work for your PCV valves so make sure you grab the 91+ PCV valve and hoses going to the intake

it's spelled "traitor" but I disagree. the only traitorous thing $500mj coulda done was deny the superiority of Wisconsin.

um. no offense to geonovast in any way, and I know he agrees with me....but his dad is F#@KTARDED when it comes to things like this. he's hoarded things such as used butt splicers, because there "will be value in them someday". :nuts: correy has told his dad correct info time and again, only to have his dad say that correy is wrong.

I kind of feel like a fool. apparently caps lock always means "yelling". I was just doing that to pound my point into his brain. *shrug*. just because a guy can build an xj rock slider without the vehicle there, doesn't mean he can do his first MJ slider without the vehicle there. I guess, what I'm trying to say, is that I feel like a fool. but I don't feel sorry.

Thanks CW. I don't know why you're experiencing those issues....I've never had that problem with the forum. but yeah, almost every time I have OT I have to correct a mistake...$10 here or there so no biggy. I also spent about 5 hours today at the District Attorney's office in the county where I did my dumb@$$ery. got all criminal records expunged (part of the agreement, and that's the reason my probation was so long, and the reason I had community service). Got really lucky...the attorney I had for this two years ago is actually the DA now :D. so. as tight as money actually is, It's OK for now. I have $17 to make it through the next week lol. -Pat

well... I'd have to have money for gas first :rotf: :doh: :rotfl2: :hmm:

Well, it ended up only being $300. I had $100, a friend paid me $90 of the $150 he owed me, borrowed $100 from another friend, and borrowed $10 from my mom. so, got it done and I'm now done with probation. thank god. one week I get paid a very nice paycheck, and other than paying back $110 to people, It is all mine. I'm picking up woody62's 86 comanche and cherokee, and buying the rest of the engine parts that I need to rebuild the 3800. following check is around $1500 and it's all free and clear as well....that will all go straight into the bank.

I may be in cali working (installing new h20 filters and tea breweres in some resteraunt chain called "jack in the box") Jeez, hollywood. Can I tag along in a suitcase? :brows: Sounds like your in high-demand. ;) Rob L. yeah, sounds like I'm gonna go friggin broke since they send me out of town all the time, and expect me to survive on cash out of pocket (it's expensed and returned, but still...sucks to have to have $500 available at any time just in case...especially when you can't afford to do that).

I may be in cali working (installing new h20 filters and tea breweres in some resteraunt chain called "jack in the box")

I support your ideas :thumbsup: was gonna just start talkin to you about my 4.0 HO engine here, but it's got 194k on it (though it runs like it's brand spankin new) geonovast has an engine with between 40 and 50 k on it....

you need to weld the brace COMPLETELY to the frame...bolting it on isn't gonna help lol

they said wait til next check. if they'd said otherwise, the attorneys would already be all over them. I can't change my expemptions like that....I almost never know I'm leaving the state more than 3 days in advance. kind of sucks, but the pay is there (if I get payed :P)