JeepcoMJ

Even the dakota bellhousing won't work. The starter is on the driver's side, so is the slave cylinder. It will limit the function of the slave. The advance adapters kit for an ax15 adapts to the 4 bolt gm bellhousing. You would need an external slave bellhousing from a '94. V6 s10. I blew 5 ax5's with mine, and just as many dana 35's. My conclusion is to combine a 3.8 world class T5 trans with the 94 4wd T5 from the s10. T5 "world class" trannies use taper bearings to set pre-loads on the shafts, making them extremely reliable, capable of holding up to built mustang 5.0's pushing 800 hp. Last issue...and the reason I will be going naturally aspirated again...the eaton m90 supercharger that is on the 3800 has the pulley on the serpentine side, and throttle body on the trans side...and that puts the supercharger directly IN the firewall. Not against it, not near it...it makes it required to cut a hole in the firewall, and to modify the wiper assembly. You COULD move the motor forward, but at the tradeoff of having the shifter cone out of the dash. So, not worth the time for a super charger unless you find. A s/c that doesn't put thr throttle body into the firewall. Btw, with the n at. Asp. 3800 in my 86, I got no less than 24mpg with it...on a bad day. And A LOT more power than a 4.0 Oh, and a 4.0 radiator is necessary so hopefully you don't have an 86.

You will NOT be using the 99 flywheel. It has different timing windows as it is for an mpfi 4 cyl. You will need the 99 bellhousing, throwout plate and bearing, clutch set, slave cylinder, and master cylinder, and the 99 transfercase can't hurt either.

Or rubber duckies

Doesn't help when the highest point of whatever you're climbing on is dead center under your truck

Crazy dutch bastards

wasn't a toy

the new exhaust is nice and all...but that is one really not good angle for the muffler to be at. it should be flat, paralell to the ground. at the angle it's at, it's gonna catch on something if you go offroad.

something he should

this is ghey

there really aren't many good "bolt-on" carbs. to do a decent carb on it, you'd buy an edelbrock 4bbl intake for the 60 degree v6, and a holly 390cfm 4bbl carb. but, you can get a decent amount of pep and some increased mpg simply by eliminating half of the vacuum shtuff on the carb.

He already said he was removing the engine for a crd swap, so it's a moot point in this case.

yup. 4 cyl to 4 cyl 5 speed/4 speed are direct swap. may be input bearing differences because of differences in the input shaft's bearing surface, but nothing that can't be worked around. make sure that you get the slave and bellhousing for the '91. may be the same, but just in case, get that.

No it won't. The heater/blower box is on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. Removing the engine will do NOTHING to make getting at that any easier. The only heater part accessed from the engine compartment is the fan motor/blower itself (not the box), and you don't have to remove the engine to R&R the blower fan. Eagle, he needed the entire heater box removed. that is easy with the engine removed. 3 of the bolts holding the heater box to the firewall are directly behind the engine, and at an angle a ratcheting wrench won't work at...and not enouth room for a ratchet and the deep well socket you need.

If it's the '98 trans from the xj, then that's right. If it's from the zj, someone obviously swapped it in. Make sure you adapt the wiring from the old trans onto the new one

After some issues with regular RTV being eaten away by gear lube, I suggest you ONLY use RTV Ultra Black. You've got the procedure spot on. If you have a bad pinion or wheel seal, the time to do it is when you're swapping fluid btw.

NO cherokee had a foot ebrake pedal from factory. Likewise bench seats. An mj bench fits in an xj with custom brackets and losing the ebrake altogether, or making a custom assembly for it.

I grind half the head off of an appropriate size and length grade 8 bolt. Works great

The motor will work, tho. But it will need the flex plate and accessory brackets and accessories from the ZJ's motor.

My brother runs air shocks front and rear on his plow mj. Pressure them up, zero sag but a bit of a rough ride. Only way I'd go for a plow mj. Bumper to bumper carries/can get them, but you will need to flex the jeep out with NO shocks on, and measure to determine the length you will need in order to cross-reference part numbers.

It is true. I find that less renix clusters have trip meter, though....so when I need a good one for a h.o. Cluster, I just drill the hole in the correct spot using the lens from a non-trip equipped cluster

If you want 3000 cc, get a 3.1 and shave the deck. Raise compression, lower cc.

I don't have one because I have a 4.0. I don't have a 2.8 because I wanted a good motor. So I put a buick 3800 in it. I got a 4 cyl after the 2.8 as a dd and had no problem. Loved it for dd. Sold it because I needed the cash. Either way. To answer your question, if you want the camaro 2.8 you will need a mj 2.8 flywheel, get it neutrally balanced, and then it will work. You will need an mj 2.8 oil pan, exhayst manifolds, and y pipe plus motor mounts. The camaro may not have a block mounted fuel pump. If it doesn't, and you're going with tbi or mpfi, you'll probably want a 4.0 fuel pump to throw on the 2.5 sender. The 2.5 radiator will work, but you'll need either an e-fan or a mj 2.8 mech fan and shroud. Xj 2.8 perts work too. That said, you're wasting your time.

Those numbers look umm...ok on paper. But they're not reality. The 4 cyl is superior. Matter of fact, the 4 cyl power band where torque and hp meet is 3200rpm. It's a much better motor for high revving, and it, unlike the 2.8, is successfully internally balanced.

That would be the great lakes location, not central planes

You won't get any positive info on this. Sell the camaro motor and buy another 4 cylinder. But theoretically everything will function together, however inelegant.