JeepcoMJ

pull your factory bumper off and loosen it's mounts. grind the welds holding the tin bumper mounts to the tow hook brackets. bolt everything up tighten bumper call it good.

if that involves checks, paypal, or any money other than cash, then I can not do it.

well they have zero on the shelves, and the idiots working there don't even know what one is.

NEVER EVER buy a netgear wireless router. what a giant pile of sh*t. took me 5 hours to make it work. I just had cable/internet installed since I work at Time Warner, because it's free...but I'm not renting a wireless router, and my linksys router is all screwed up because I'm in the process of setting it up as a retransmitter to put in the window of my garage (metal pole barn) so I can use the laptop out there, too. so, I went to walmart to buy another linksys. they don't carry them anymore...I had choices of vizio (great TV's, but I won't buy a router that I've never heard of before), belkin, ant netgear. my last belkin experience left a sour taste in my mouth, so I opted for a netgear adapter. after 3 hours of dicking with the damn thing, having it prompt me to input my ip4 address, subnet address, gateway ip address, and dns server crap, then telling me that what I was inputting (which is info I got from command prompt using "ipconfig" as a command) was wrong. obviously it wasn't...it's what my computer says I have, so it is RIGHT. they say the router is compatible with windows 7. I disagree. finally, after 5 hours, it just all of a sudden said "the hell with all this stuff, just give me a password that you want to use, and let's just call it good" (not quite like that, of course). 5 hours. waste of time. Only saving grace is walmart will take anything back under $50 with a reciept. so, when I get a new linksys (whenever I find one), I will be returning this piece of crap. just warning you guys to stay away from their crappy products.

hmm. maybe, even tho my rear brakes were shot, that was partial cause for the fact that they won't lock up.

mine rolled over, died, and is slowly coming back from beyond...

why wouldn't you recommend that? I've done it on every single MJ I've ever registered. not one has had failed brakes caused by this.

hammer. 10 minutes all told. dicking with press. 30 minutes per side. a hammer can NOT affect the bushing negatively. you just have to be smart about it. it's not redneck, it's not poor skills. it's easier.

different length. buy a 4 door xj, find the 2 door switches and door wiring if you want power wiring.

junkyard run. cherokee distribution block from cherokee. remove comanche distribution block. remove comanche brake line that runs from load sensing valve to the front of the block. replace rear brake sending line (front lower of block) if needed. bypass load sensing valve, connect straight to rear brake hose. reconnect. bleed all brakes. done. you now have 60% front brakes, 40% rear. and you don't have a POS oem weight valve. the distribution block (xj prop valve) is located under the brake booster. they are almost directly interchangeable.

big effing hammer. that's how I've done them, every single time. sure, it will bend the lip on the edge of the new bushing when it goes in...but it won't ever matter once they've been hit home.

That, or find a 97+ 4 cyl donor, swap all sensors, manifolds, etc. Finding a late model 4 banger is not easy. So yes, you have to do a complete swap.

Yes. It requires a complete donor vehicle, as a high output swap is NECESSARY to accomplish it. The 97 gauge cluster won't work without the 97 ecu

I run by the mechanic's code. Haven't heard of it, don't get it. My dad has 25 year old ingersols, is a semi mechanic (rebuilds totalled trucks that would make you cringe) and they will still take EVERYTHING off and put it back on again. Aside from that, I don't like mac tools. Never have, never will. I've had more mac sockets break than craftsman, and don't have the cash to buy snap-on

Ingersol-rand for the win. I bought the step below automan's the other day. Light weight, 600 ft/lbs, $211, and it's their quiet version. I've never heard of aircat or nitrocat. That means they are junk. Tool shop and similar $50 cheapos are junk. Craftsman is OK.

You will have to pull the seats and carpet to do it btw...unless you're ok with cutting the carpet. And that cluster better be out of close to the same year truck or it won't work

Except that '87-'90 used the mechanical speedo and '91-'94 used the electronic speedo, so to replace the one in your truck without the PRNDL window you'll need the type that matches the year of your MJ. Correct. I figured that that would be common sense so I didn't elaborate. The rest of the parts can come from an 87 to 94

You need a new column, shifter cable, shifter, and the transmission tunnel plate under the floor shifter. Then a non-column shift full gauge cluster. Grab it all from the same xj in the junk yard. Any year from 87 to 94

True neutral means that you can jack up one end of the jeep, put the transfercase in neutral, get under the truck, and turn the drive shaft on the end you lifted, without it turning the other driveshaft at all.

Guess I'll never win this battle... :headpop: Sorry Marcel but this is not true. It's been proven time and time again... I have proven to myself that mvusse is correct and you are not. My findings are that the only np231's that agree with you are sealed output np231's. If it has a tail shaft that seals on the driveshaft, it does NOT have a true neutral. It will lock front to rear. Period. All jeep tech from jeep says this, too. All owner's manuals say it. Lead__not_follow, you are wrong. Period

JeepcoMJ Really? I appreciate your Buick V6 experience, BUT. Think that is an emotional reaction rather than a factual statement. The man asked a question. Don't you think he is entitled to some straight answers? You gave him good answers about the Buick V6. Why can you not let me suggest reasonable alternatives with out crap comments? Your crap answers devalue your worth on this board. John Jackson San Diego, California 92131 I shot down your comment because ford 3.8's are junk, and they are bigger than a buick 3800. I've spent some time researching when I was doing the swap, and ford stuff went out the door when I got the opportunity to work on an s/c tbird, and realized what a PITA it was to work on. Ford 3.8's don't get good mileage, either. And the power isn't that compareable. I got 22mpg on my lowest mpg tank, highest was low 30's. So, yes I made an emotional response based on the fact that if it's ford, it belongs in a scrap yard.

Nothing from a small block will work...not the same bolt pattern. The FWD and RWD 3800's use the same bp. Gonna require custom exhaust manifolds to put it in. You need the complete wiring harness from the S/C car btw. And you will need a VATS bypass module from bakerelectronics.com...it replaces the chipped key and allows you to retain the jeep column. You will also need all o2 sensors etc. From it as well

Rocky road lifts are garbage...at least their long arms and drop brackets are

I can lift a buick 3.8 off the ground and put it in the bed of my 6.5" lifted mj. Doubt I could do that with any ford JUNK

It's a 60 degree v6 bellhousing pattern with a 90 degree block. I don't know about automatics. Something mechanically controlled would be easiest to deal with. Just get a camaro t5 and a junk s10 t5, swap the output shaft and output housing to the camaro trans, s10 bellhousing, bolt it in, and go.