Knucklehead97

Neither. Dry for the 3 on the right. They're old though. Definitely needs plugs, so I'll pick those up tomorrow. Couldn't pull the left 3 today due to my fiance requesting a late lunch date. How can I test the coil packs? It looks like the front 3 or 4 cylinders are not firing.

Cranked it up, ran perfectly fine for 5 minutes. Can't be the valvws. After 5 minutes it started running real rough and threw P0300, 0302, 2305, 2308, 2311, and 2317. That's multiple misfires, cylinder 2 misfire, and ignition coil B, C,D, and F. It'll randomly start running good again and then get bad again. I have 10 days to get this fixed before my mom can't take back the Corolla. Any guidance?

Going to start with the grease, rain x, a d extra ground and hope for the best. After that, who knows. Thankfully I only weekend drive my Jeep when I'm off work so I rarely get caught in bad rain.

I can't do a compression test but I can pull coil wired while it's running and see which don't change the idle. Was going to work on it Thursday but my daily driver window decided to all of a sudden fall and shatter going down the interstate in a monsoon today. Not sure why this all happened the same week. I have a computer to scan with so checking codes will be my first test. May call up the shop owner and talk to him to hear his whole diagnosis. My mother isn't very car-savvy

The KJ will be back home this afternoon. How can I go about checking the coils and ect? Would be great if I could get it going again and keep it as an extra vehicle.

She ended up going and buying a 2011 Corolla while I was at work... I couldn't look at it myself due to working 16 hour days right now. Didn't trade the Jeep in but she's planning to sell it. I'm thinking of looking at it before we sell it and testing the coils and stuff. I wanted to look at it before she bought something, but she knows I'm busy and she has no way to get to work. I knew the retail value was low on it so rebuilding the engine or replacing with new was out of the question. The mechanic said that he did a pressure test and 2 cylinders were dead. I know we're lucky for the 250k out of it. It was a GREAT Jeep for the 7 years we've had it.

My mom's had an 06 KJ 3.7l for quite some time now, never really had issues for the 7 years she's owned it. Just a water pump, AC compressor, little odds and ends. No big issues. She's changed the oil like clockwork and kept up with all other maintenance. It's just recently gotten to 250k on the clock and yesterday the engine decided to go. She was driving it like normal no issues or anything, stopped at a store and ran in real fast and when she came in it was idling rough and low. Had a mechanic pick it up and he said it looks like we hadn't had a tune up in ages and that we needed 2 valves and he would have to strip the top of the engine to do it. A 2k job. We just had a tune up done in February and it's only been driven 15k since then. I know it had been losing oil without leaking. Do you think it was burning oil and then the Pistons decided to lose a seal? This is new to me. If this is considered tech instead, please move it. Wasn't sure about KJ tech.

2" for an XJ but -1" for a MJ. The stock measurements you found were for an XJ. Stock rear height for an MJ is about 9"

Installed 97+ xj wiper arms and beam style wipers. I love how they look and how well they wipe but one issue I knew was going to come up has came up... My windshield wipers only have 2 speeds. And in all honesty it's either "slow" speed or "slightly faster" speed. Neither really keeps up in a good rain. It's not that some speeds don't work, it's that there's literally only 2 speeds on the switch arm. Was there an option for more speeds of wiping or are all MJ's like this? If there is a different switch, how hard is it to swap to?

My wording wasn't the best on that post due to me being extremely tired and on my way to sleep at the time. I think the LED lights helped STOP the fuse from blowing due to drawing less power. They're bright led's but not bright enough to draw that much amperage!

So far with a 15 AMP fuse it's not blowing. Drove it all day with no issues. I feel maybe the reverse lights were blowing it because I also swapped to LED ones earlier which draw less power. Time will tell!

In the fuse box. I didn't even know of the one under the passenger dash...

It is definitely a dog. Whenever the fuse isn't blown, it has a lot of power. Where are the solenoid's located?

It's definitely shifting. My exhaust is loud and I can hear the change of tone and my REM's RPM gauge goes down like it's shifting. Don, I'll definitely try that. 10 seemed too small for it. When I first got the Jeep it had a 7.5amp in it...

This had been happening a bunch last year but I'm just now getting around to looking into it. Ever since I got the Jeep my TRANS fuse will blow at random almost every time I drive it. Nothing seems to be different other than the Jeep is no longer in POWER mode, which I hate because Comfort mode is too comfort-ty. What can cause this and what exactly happens with this fuse blown? Just the PC switch not working, or some worse stuff?

Got it all fixed thanks to y'all. After over a year off the road, she is finally drivable. Just took her 65 down the road with NO issues. Still got small electrical and cosmetic stuff, and gotta work on my vacuum leaks, but she did fantastic driving.

That's where I was confused. The tutorial I read just said REAR tires. Not rear of FRONT tires. So I was measuring the rear tires thinking I needed it to be 1/16"-1/8" toe-in in comparison to the rear tires. That makes a lot more sense and should turn out much better than before!

Spent the whole day adjusting my front end/tightening everything up. Bilsteins are mounted, have about 4"-4 1/2" of up travel with them. Gotta bumpstop accordingly but I don't plan to be flexing it so that will come a little later. Got my Trac bar adjusted and tightened up, tires are sticking out the same amount on both sides. I got my caster set to 6* positive on both sides with my LCA's centered in the wheel wells. And finally... The toe-in. I'm running 1.25" spacers in the back to push out the rear tires some. So realistically to correctly toe in I should subtract 2.5" from the number, right? I did that and it still had the tires in a reverse-toe (angled out on both sides) not sure how else to measure it to get the right number. I've got brand new 265/75/15 Cooper AT3's sitting in my room waiting to go on. Just gotta finish up the brake bleeding and get the toe-in right. How would y'all go about doing the toe in considering my situation?

I'm seeming to find most of the bad shops around here. I would just do it myself if I knew how to weld. I had one shop last year tell me that my Ford Contour needed a timing chain even though it was a belt driven system engine. He said I was thinking of the serpentine belt and the chain was deep inside the engine...

It was a little shop in Oxford (kinda local for me) that a few friends recommended to me. Funny story about Rusty's is when I went and got their forged Sway Bar Disconnects, the chick at the desk tried to talk me out of buying XJ ones due to "possible fitment issues" on an MJ. The disconnects fit perfectly and are actually a well made product from what I can tell. I just question how some businesses do so well for themselves.

Took a vacation from work and have been on the Jeep getting her back on the road. Ordered my tires, got my brakes figured out, tightened up suspension. Got her running again, she cranked right up! So with that, I've started looking into getting my 8.25 set up for an MJ. I called a local 4wd shop about welding the perches for me (they specialize in Jeep's apparently) and the guy's exact words were "You don't have to weld perches. Just tighten the Ubolts as much as possible and you'll be fine!". I told him thanks for the advice and carried on my search. This type of thing is why I do my own work...

My mom quit after my pops passed away 5 years ago. She also did it cold turkey without any patches or anything. It was great to see her health and appetite come back after smoking! My whole life she never really ate much and was always drained but ever since she stopped smoking she loves food and is super energetic. Good luck with keeping it up, she said it was the best decision she ever made!!!

I have them on my Jeep. Haven't actually driven with them yet as I just now installed them but they're VERY beefy. They look great too. But if you get them, get some Metric 10.9 m10-1.5"x90mm bolts. Your stock axle side UCA bolts won't be long enough. Bolt depot.com had them for way cheaper than any local place for me. I got mine for like 10$ shipped to me with new flange lock-nuts

It was about 250$ for a non-lighted one and 300$ for a lighted one plus you gotta figure out shipping on it. I almost got one but couldn't afford 400$ on something non-crucial at the time.

There was a gentleman that was selling replicas of the factory sun visor a couple months ago on Facebook. They looked perfect. I want to say his name was Frank Cotes?