Knucklehead97

Hmm.... sounds way better than buying rims. Told the guy I was gonna pass. Gonna look into this rim painting stuff. Thanks guys :D

I would love to paint my current ones black but they still have tires on them. How hard is painting a rim while theres tires on it? And SHEESH thats small tires for these things. I hate how tiny my 30's look and those are just small...

Its 3.75" backspacing. Guy said he had the option for that or 4" and he got the less backspacing. My truck is 4x4, as well so the front doesnt sit as low.

And I know the backspacing on stock rims was 5.25 (correct?) I would actually like for the tires to stick out that extra bit but am scared of turning interference... I'm guessing they would probably rub on the flare, and not the arms, correct? As running bigger tires with stock rims requires less backspacing if I remember correctly.

Didnt realize stock was so small. I was thinking of going with 235/75's because I thought they were stock...

So theres a guy selling a set of 15x8 Pacer Soft 8 rims for 100$. I've been wanting black rims for a LONG time and thats a very good price for them. But I'm still on stock height and will be getting stock size tires once the Jeeps on the road again. Will these rims work with stock tires and not look dumb/rub anywhere? The backspacing according to the internet is 4".

BA10/5 is the transmission you have. It was used with the 4.0 from 87-mid 89. It's known for being very weak and is often swapped for an AX-15, which was used mid 89+.

Changed the line back to the original. I can start the truck in gear and it seems to release correctly. Only thing is I can hear a small whirring from the tranny tunnel whenever I have the clutch pedal pushed in. Even when it is not in gear. Now I don't know if this sound was there before, because I simply wasnt listening for a difference in noise before. Should I be worried about this noise? I'm worried that it is the clutch not fully disengaging but I'm not sure because it starts and doesnt move a bit when in gear with the pedal pressed

Well the fuse box is covered with fluid now... quick tip, that Dorman line SUCKS. Went to bleed the line and it starts squirting fluid out the MC flare nut! I guess I'm just going to throw the original line back on even though its destroyed and work on finding a place to make me a steel braided line. Sadly can't get my money back on that line.

Ah, great! Thanks guys :D

That spring is still in place on the assembly. This ones much bigger than #9

while changing my clutch MC and line (this is a sucky job to do) today I stuck my wrench up under the dash to get that top bolt of the MC and when I did this spring fell down. What is this spring? Is this part of the clutch pedal assembly or is it part of the parking brake? My parking brake pedal always flies up and tries to hit my hand when I let it go, could this spring be the cause of that?

Thats exactly where my idle is when warmed up. I've been thinking I have a low idle but I've done everything to try and fix it...

I knew I would have to take the brackets off my bench and move them to the ZJ seats. Just wasn't so sure if I could do that with just some metal and bolts. But now I see that it isnt as complicated as I expected :D

My problem is that I'm going from a bench to buckets eventually lol.

So I have confirmed that two fuses are destroyed in my fuse block thanks to this. It doesnt look like the block itself is in bad condition though. Is there any way I can clean the block to get the fluid off of it before it does some big damage?

Following this topic because I have been wondering the exact same... junkyards around here have PLENTY of good ZJ seats but no good XJ ones. I just am worried about the width and everything being off. I have about 12 feet of 3/16"x1-1/2" angle iron to work with to make them mount on the brackets, but I don't know anyone with a welder so I need to do it with bolts. Only people I have seen do it have welders or just cut up the floor to make it work...

My pleasure! Figured it's about time I started helping out around this forum since I've been helped so many times :D

I honestly don't know. Mine is a 4.0 and I'm not savvy on the 2.5 at all. Not sure if the pumps/senders are the same.

I've got to get around to pulling the pump and all back out of the tank. Got a brand new pump and line in there but I need to check the line to be sure. And I need to check distributor indexing (for idle problems) and rent a fuel pressure gauge to see if my gauge on the rail is even reading correctly

I ordered both of those parts off Ebay. I appreciate you telling me they were on ebay for cheaper. I was about to spend $70 on Rockauto for them instead of the 57$ I spent on Ebay. Of course I checked and the warranty from manufacturer still is valid on them.

Fixed the line. The trucks running better. Aint fixed, but runs a lot better. I still have little backfires when it gets warmed up but they aint as bad as before. I'm thinking the low fuel pressure is the gauge reading bad because of heat. The idles halfway smooth though.

I'll end up doing the same most likely. Let me know how yours turns out, won't be swapping mine for awhile due to dealing with engine problems lol.

From what I can tell the fitting ends are male 7/16 24, thats according to Sdvance Autos specifications for the aftermarket replacement. And it does look like they use a flared end to seal up completely. Not sure how to seal them up correctly using braided hose and fittings. I can't find a hydraulic shop around here so I'm trying to decide whether I want to chance a aftermarket stock replacement, or find another option. Looks like I will be going with a Luk MC unless someone tells me a better brand. It would be fantastic if I could just take some steel brake line and bend it to work but I know it would be unreliable due to the movement of the engine while the MC is stationary on the firewall...

I believe thats the same Luk that I was looking at on Rockauto. Also is the rear brakelines fittings the same thread and everything as the clutch line?