sloride

I couldn't tell you that. It looks more like a Dodge bumper than a Jeep even though it says it fits.... I'm not a fan of the stock style bumper. The JCRoffroad is something I'm more interested in doing with my MJ....

I'd shop around if it were me. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/2237-04037671.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=AYY&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1987-1992+Jeep+Comanche+Step+Bumper+Action+Crash+87-92+Jeep+Step+Bumper+1991+1989&gclid=CMuZ66Kt77gCFSdo7AodXzQAyg http://www.ebay.com/itm/Westin-63000-Black-Diamond-Step-Steel-Rear-Bumper-for-Dodge-Dakota-Jeep-Comanche-/140977742249 Some have done this. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36200-jcroffroad-new-jeep-comanche-mj-diy-rear-bumper/

Expansion valve maybe? I have been researching doing my conversion and everything I read mentions changing the expansion valve is tops on the list to change. That's not to say that's the cause of your problem, but I would focus my attention on that first. Good luck.

Thanks again hornbrod..... Jeepair was on my contact 'to do' list. Jeepair's website shows the later hose availability but only for '89 and up... Its also available at Morris 4x4 and Quadratec. Morris 4x4 has the later hose 56002684 fitting '84-'96 XJ series and Quadratec shows the same hose used with '87-'91 on XJ & MJ..... Looks like I'll be trying the later hose. Thanks again.

I have an '88 Comanche with an AC hose that's leaking. See attached photobucket picture to see what hose I'm talking about....... The parts manual calls for part 56002724 which is used on '87-'88 but is no longer available, or so it seems...... The part manual also shows a hose part number 56002684 which is used on '89-'90... This one is still available..... My question is: Does anyone know why I can't use the later model hose on my '88?

Thanks hornbrod!

While looking through my 88 jeep parts catalog for air conditioning components I discovered an illustration page titled "Receiver/Drier, Condenser and Hoses 6 Cylinder Engine w/FACTORY Air conditioning Cherokee, Wagoneer, Comanche" and the very next page has an illustration titled "Receiver/Drier, Condenser and Hoses 6 Cylinder Engine w/American Air conditioning Cherokee, Wagoneer, Comanche" My truck came with AC straight from the factory, this I know. The truck is an AMC. So whats the deal? Could anyone tell me what the difference is between Factory and American air conditioning components?

I took out the load sensor valve and replaced it with an adjustable proportioning valve just to be safe.

If he doesn't want the shifter, its yours.

I agree with what everyone has said. Cost varies on what you want to do and actually do. If you're going to swap and play parts then the cost will be minimal. But if you want to do new bushings, tie-rods, track bar, brake lines and whatever else you find you want to replace, then the cost goes up exponentially. I had the front axle out of my '88 and was staring at an oil pan leak. It wasn't noticeable on the ground as it was looking up at it from the pavement. That was something I had to fix because there was no time like the present. And of course I had to paint the pan before putting it back on. Its thinks like that that might slow your progress or hit your pocket book. When I started I hadn't planned on putting disc brakes on the back, so I sucked it up and did that as well. With it all apart front and back I HAD to put new springs on four corners. And of course I couldn't do new springs without new shocks. Its one thing after another. Nice thing about doing all that up front, don't have to worry about doing it later. I have renewed interest in driving my truck. Going from 3.07 to 3.55 gears makes the old truck scoot. Well worth the effort and expense. Good luck........ If you're needing a ax-15 shifter with shift tower for your conversion I can help you out with one for $25 plus shipping. Its an extra one sitting on the shelf looking for a good home.

Mine did the same thing years ago. Can't remember what I did exactly to fix the handle but once I took it apart it was obvious what needed to be done. I do remember thinking I should have done it sooner since it was a simple fix.

Before you do any dissaembly, clean the affected area and determine exactly where the leak is coming from first. I've seen a loose speedo cable gear housing leak that exact same way.

Just converted my 2wd to 4wd. Got the parts at Late Model Auto Parts in KC as well as Liberty U pull and the pick and pull yards off 12th st in KCKS and I435 in KCMO. The front and rear axle assemblies from the pick and pulls will run just over $100 each. (Liberty U Pull has their price list on-line plus a list of current inventory.) Late Model Auto, I picked up the tranny and transfer case for $600 which is steep but they were from a low mileage cherokee and they were out of the vehicle already. ....... The drive shaft had shortened at a place east of Worlds of Fun for little over $100....... The overall cost for me to do what I did was pushing more than what you might spend. Everyone is different on what they can do when or how much they want to spend. Mind you, I put disc brakes on the back of my 8.25 rear axle from a grand cherokee, which upped the cost. Plus I put all new springs with shocks at four corners along with brake calipers, rotors and pads. The front got new control arm bushings, tie rods, and drag link........ Its not difficult if you have the tools and most of all patience. Stock pile your parts before you tear into it. I started last fall and by April this year my MJ was road worthy... This forum is where I learned about the parts I would need. Have an issue just ask and you'll get help..... Good luck and don't get discouraged.

Get a straight one from any parts store, oreillys, napa, autozone and bend it to meet your needs. You can pick up a tubing bender on the cheap.

If its stainless then its not as simple as cutting, adding a nut and flaring. Mild steel you can do that with a hand flare tool, but stainless usually more often than not requires the hydraulic flare tool....... That line goes straight to your master cylinder correct? I'd do what cruiser54 suggests, replace it.

I've looked at the Loadhandler and thought it a great option, but I'm not sure my back would stand all that twisting motion. I'd love to have a dump trailer or just a trailer but parking space is an issue...

My 4x4 conversion is complete and I'm now looking at doing something else with my truck. Has anyone kicked around the idea of converting your truck's bed to a dump bed? I've seen S10 chevys and Toyota pick-ups but no Comanches. Some would ask why. I would ask why not? I still use my truck to haul dirt and yard debris so having my truck dump would save my back. http://www.stealthdumptrucks.com/ I emailed these guys and they say none of their parts fit a jeep chassis, which is fine. There's ways to make it work I'm sure. I've looked into piecing it together and I know it can be done. Fabricating something isn't the hurdle, but designing something that would work is. I understand the fuel tank filler tube would need to be relocated to the wheel well. The emergency brake cable bracket attached to the bed reattached to the frame somehow. I understand the fuel tank straps would need reattaching to the frame some how. Would the bed clear the fuel tank upon lift? I'd want the bumper to stay in place while the bed lifted up and over the bumper similar to what stealthdumptrucks does. I'd appreciate any input you guys might have. Thanks

I use a pickle fork to separate the shifter from the lower portion. I thought you wanted shifter separated from the adapter.

I get them apart at the junk yard that way quite often. It helps the 'tower' the part that cradles the ball part of shifter is stationary. If its out of the tranny, I put it in the vise, that way I can push down with both thumbs and twist.

Its spring loaded. Push down on the flat round part and turn counterclockwise I believe. It'll pop right out.

Been there done that. Thats why I changed my clutch line to braided hose.

Yep, that's what it was. Transfer Case was in neutral............ Shifted fine. Forgot what it was like to have a smooth shifting transmission in that truck. Took it for a spin around the block. Two thirds around the block, at the bottom of a hill, I lost clutch pedal pressure and smoke started coming up through hole by shifter. Somehow clutch fluid got on the exhaust manifold close to the oxy sensor. Its not wet under the master cylinder or the line leading down the firewall. Thought the line going to the slave was touching the exhaust cylinder but its not. The fluid in the reservoir was half low. I filled it up and checked for pedal pressure and there is none. Think I might have a pin hole somewhere in the line. Any other ideas?....

It could be the TC is in neutral. Now that you mention it, with the truck on jack stands, I was flipping that transfer case shift tang back and forth with my hand when messing with the driveshaft. The lever in the cab isn't installed yet for the transfer case so it wasn't obvious. When under the truck I could have put it in neutral without realizing it. I'll check this morning and let you know. Thanks.

Love this forum by the way. I was able to put in a headlight & ignition key chime module today that I got at a pick-n-pull because of a posting from 'hornbrod'. Thanks for that....... Subject: 88mj, 4.0L,5sp Anyway, here's the reason for this post.. My gears won't engage when shifting forward or reverse. With engine running, the clutch pedal pushed to the floor and trying to shift to reverse you can feel and hear the gears as the stick moves closer to reverse. The other gears won't reproduce the same result. It feels like it goes into gear but won't go forward or reverse. I put it in gear before starting engine and the result is the same. What I've done recently......... Swapped the original '88 Peugeot 5spd for an AX15 from a '96 Cherokee along with its transfer case. The clutch master cylinder along with slave cylinder is new from Rock Auto for a '96 Cherokee...... The slave cylinder push rod didn't seem long enough to push the throw out arm but I went ahead and installed anyway. '96 tranny and '96 slave cylinder should work correct in tandem. Its possible I received the wrong part in the correct label box, but what are the odds........ Oh, the flywheel is '88 original that's been machined (I know I opened a can of worms with that statement.) Clutch and pressure plate are also new. Thanks in advance for any ideas or guidance.

DIY project write up section you'll find this. It helped me with mine. http://comancheclub.com/topic/18925-looking-for-driveshaft-lengths-of-stock-trucks/