snakedoc67

I have a grey interior that I pulled out of a 91. Can get pictures and a complete list of what I have after work tonight.

found one off the facebook CC.

thanks, that one is way over the price range, especially when all I need is the spring and they seem to go for half on here.

After having it towed home, pedal was on the floor and stayed there. When I took it off the cable had been snapped at the very end and the spring was AWOL. I was not around when it was loaded and after watching the driver try to unload it off his flatbed I did not have much confidence in him. lol. I have had the release lever off for a long time and was using my shoe to release the brake prior to this so I suspect the driver could not figure it out and just yanked it on his truck since my buddy was not at his shop when the truck was picked up. Prior to this the assembly had worked perfectly. I looked in the 88 parts manual and there is no listing for the front spring, just the top one and the local yards around here have plenty of XJs with the console handbrake but none with the kickpanel.

the factory kick panel.

Looking for a floor mounted parking brake assembly or the springs by themselves.

Any idea where I can get the longer return spring that attaches where the cable connects to the pawl? Mine has gone awol and I cannot find a part number in the parts book.

I have a set if you'd rather have a pair, I have both the short style and my parts truck has the hockey stick types on both doors. Can post a picture of the short ones later tonight if you are interested

I have one if you are still looking:

:banana:

Has anyone had any experience with using Evan's waterless coolant? http://www.evanscooling.com/

Yes, as strange as it sounds I am holding off on deleting it for now unless it is determined to be the direct cause. A few days ago I took the wires from the back half and plugged them directly into the front wires to make sure they had a tight connection with each other and reduce the possibilities of the connectors being loose. Over the last year as the truck has sat I have done work on the harness to clean it up where the loom was missing and oil soaked in spots. I removed everything on the passenger side so I could clean years of grime off the inner fender and repaint it to include the support for the harness and test ports. The wire loom was junk so it was replaced and each wire was cleaned to remove caked on oil and dirt, then new shrink wrap and looming. The injector harness was swapped out for one from an 88. After pulling the wires out of the back of the C101 to finish cleaning out the tar I found out that there were different wire colors between 87 and 88 at the C101. Naturally I had also made the mistake of not writing down the inside half so had much fun trying to figure it out by using a spare harness I have. When I cleaned up the harness, I took each related group of wires and shrink wrapped followed by 1/4 loom for each group. By doing it this way I found several areas such as the sensors where there was several inches of unnecessary wiring. Plan is to build a harness from scratch in the future so that excess is eliminated. I also plan to eliminate wiring for the automatic trans that I will never have in it, etc. Pictures show mockup and as it sits now.

I am also working on a crank-no start issue. Mechanic that installed the CPS a few weeks ago tested my ICU and coil with his powered probe and found them working. Also found power was going to the ECU but it was not sending the signal to fire the coil. When I got the jeep home, I took a meter to the ICU yellow wire (A) and got 5v which is what I read in the SM. Is this the correct voltage going into the ICU? I am thinking the CPS that was installed is bad, when I did Cruisers tip on testing it I have been getting around .4 and it seems each seperate time I test it the values are dropping.

thanks for the tips will try those and see, still have my C101 but have done most of the other Tips to include #2

Had a new CPS installed last week to try and resolve a crank but no start problem. The mechanic that did the work confirmed that the coil (new), ignition module (old) and CPS were working correctly and that power was getting to the ECU but the ECU was not sending a signal to the coil. Is there a test I can do with the ECU to determine if that is the cause as opposed to bad wiring? 87 Renix 4.0

At first I was thinking there was a difference but was too busy with work last week to do any checking on here. Found the post I have saved this morning and it only matters if a manual is being used in an automatic: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42705-more-power-form-renix-87-and-88/?hl=ecm&do=findComment&comment=433593

Thanks for looking Crash

Looking for an ECU for an manual transmission, 4.0L Renix jeep. Need to replace the one in my 87.

You are protected with paypal on eBay , if it were me I'd rather have the mopar CPS that is proven for reliability and almost half the price of the PC 307 . I'll sell you my mopar one for $60 shipped and buy the two on eBay if you're worried that much about eBay . Pm me if interested . Thanks for the offer but I already had it on order prior to seeing yours. lol.

I'm not a big fan of Ebay, been burnt a few times too many. I did find it at JC Whitney for $60: http://www.jcwhitney.com/standard-oe-replacement-crankshaft-position-sensor-new/p3070709.jcwx?skuId=4866231&filterid=d1169y1987g131j4

Looking for the PC307 CPS as recommended by Cruiser and it appears RockAuto does not carry it anymore. Does anyone have another source to find one that is reliable?

Noriyori_Kudo, thanks for the help with the colors. Spent half of a day taking down the ECM but I was expecting that to be a pain and I learned quite a bit about it. After ruling out the ECM and all points after that, it ended up being the following: the wires had not been fully engaged when I reinstalled the relays bases a few months ago and pulled loose. Now the fuel pump works as it should.

that is true when applied to jeeps but no ballast resistor on mine. I do have a few in the garage that I pulled off JY ones thinking I was supposed to have one. lol

Finally got my 87 4.0 back together this week but when I turn my key to on the fuel pump does not run. I've tested the fuel pump by running a jumper from the battery and it will run and provide pressure to the fuel rail. I've checked the relays and can feel them opening and closing when power is applied, also I have used a battery tester to confirm the base is getting 12V from the battery. Starter works fine, and the plugs and wires are new. I parked the truck last Aug for a radiator replacement and while it was apart decided to fix some other things such as worn power steering hoses, etc and clean up the engine bay. On the passenger side, most of the wires were exposed so I cleaned them up and put new wirelooms on them, and pulled out the support for the relays to clean, repaint and reinstall. I also took out my C101 to clean and reinstall as that wire harness was shot as well. When I rebuilt the C101 harness, I ended up using the injector harness out of an 88 parts truck. As I was reinstalling the wiring onto the back of the C101, I had not wrote down which wire went where and I came up with an extra one that did not have a counterpart on the injector side, nor could I tell where it went from pictures I had taken when I first bought the truck. IIRC it was a blue wire with red stripe, but will take a look later on to make sure. Trying to figure out any additional ideas, I've looked thru the forum here to see what I could find.