BLHTAZ

If you don't have the facilities or abilities, you are going to need someone with some good welding & sheet metal skills. That is a tough spot to repair and I don't know if the floor pan replacements that are availble will cover that or not. Check out Team Cherokee's (I think is where I saw them) website for floor pans.

Yes, it is a swap that's been done many times, but you definitely need the complete wiring harness and transmission control computer to make it work.

Yes, it is a swap that's been done many times, but you definitely need the complete wiring harness and transmission control computer to make it work.

You will be OK, but the 9.50 tire will be "spead out" looking and, as you know, is not the best thing to do. The 9.5 should be on a 7" wide, but since it's not a real long term thing, you will get by. The 3.75" BS should be fine for the 10.50 to clear.

You will be OK, but the 9.50 tire will be "spead out" looking and, as you know, is not the best thing to do. The 9.5 should be on a 7" wide, but since it's not a real long term thing, you will get by. The 3.75" BS should be fine for the 10.50 to clear.

This is bad. Now I understand why someone put the drop in it...because they didn't want to put the correct rear shaft it in. I apologize, but I ASSumed that it had the proper shaft in the rear. Now you are left with a choice...but putting the drop back in should not be one of them. If you put it back in, you need to shorten the front shaft. If you leave it out, you need to lengthen the rear shaft before it falls out of the t-case and all your fluid runs out on the ground. Gotta love it when people try to short cut things... :shake: OH...BTW...the front shaft looks fine now :thumbsup:

This is bad. Now I understand why someone put the drop in it...because they didn't want to put the correct rear shaft it in. I apologize, but I ASSumed that it had the proper shaft in the rear. Now you are left with a choice...but putting the drop back in should not be one of them. If you put it back in, you need to shorten the front shaft. If you leave it out, you need to lengthen the rear shaft before it falls out of the t-case and all your fluid runs out on the ground. Gotta love it when people try to short cut things... :shake: OH...BTW...the front shaft looks fine now :thumbsup:

Keith is a great guy!! :thumbsup: I broke two u-bolts on the front axle of our YJ while playing at Gray Rock a a few years back and he replaced them for me for free...but, I gave him a little "beer money" anyway ;)

Keith is a great guy!! :thumbsup: I broke two u-bolts on the front axle of our YJ while playing at Gray Rock a a few years back and he replaced them for me for free...but, I gave him a little "beer money" anyway ;)

The tranny takes a little over 2 qts. and the t-case is just a little over 1 qt.

The tranny takes a little over 2 qts. and the t-case is just a little over 1 qt.

Is yours a right hand drive? That's the only way it would be on the right side of the firewall...Wouldn't it be easier to just take the other one to a store and match it up?

Is yours a right hand drive? That's the only way it would be on the right side of the firewall...Wouldn't it be easier to just take the other one to a store and match it up?

-You are well served by your reservations about Rusty's. I hear almost nothing but complaints about them just like yours :shake: -Search through the DIY forum as there are at least a couple write-ups in there on the cooling system change. -The front end conversion is not difficult, but is best done with doors, header panel & fenders for the best matching look. -The Rocky Road kit has been discussed on here at least twice in just the last week. It is not near a complete kit and you would be much better off to go with someone like Motion Offroad or Hell Creek Suspensions to get a complete kit. -OH, and yes, you should be OK on the driveline up to about 5-6"...but, nothing is guaranateed as every vehicle reacts differently to lift.

-You are well served by your reservations about Rusty's. I hear almost nothing but complaints about them just like yours :shake: -Search through the DIY forum as there are at least a couple write-ups in there on the cooling system change. -The front end conversion is not difficult, but is best done with doors, header panel & fenders for the best matching look. -The Rocky Road kit has been discussed on here at least twice in just the last week. It is not near a complete kit and you would be much better off to go with someone like Motion Offroad or Hell Creek Suspensions to get a complete kit. -OH, and yes, you should be OK on the driveline up to about 5-6"...but, nothing is guaranateed as every vehicle reacts differently to lift.

:hmm: I have never seen an EB with a D30...?? Every one I have ever seen has a D44 front & 9" rear :dunno:

:hmm: I have never seen an EB with a D30...?? Every one I have ever seen has a D44 front & 9" rear :dunno:

4.0L engines have good power as they are. There is not much you can do to improve them without spending a fair amount of money. You can do the CAI & exhaust and that could give you 8-10 HP if you are lucky. You can convert it to use an electric fan instead of the fan clutch and get a couple HP maybe.

4.0L engines have good power as they are. There is not much you can do to improve them without spending a fair amount of money. You can do the CAI & exhaust and that could give you 8-10 HP if you are lucky. You can convert it to use an electric fan instead of the fan clutch and get a couple HP maybe.

I agree... That final play was VERY close and I am still not sure the call was right, but...it's a win and it now gives us a shot (slim...but, a chance) at being #1 over all because of the Titans loss today :idea:

I agree... That final play was VERY close and I am still not sure the call was right, but...it's a win and it now gives us a shot (slim...but, a chance) at being #1 over all because of the Titans loss today :idea:

Take the valve cover off and see if it broke off flush with the head. There may be enough of it stilcking out that you can get a good set of vice-grips on it and get it out. I don't like cork gaskets and went with the Felpro rubber gasket on mine. It is a bit pricey, but it requires no selaer, it's reuseable and very good quality :thumbsup:

Take the valve cover off and see if it broke off flush with the head. There may be enough of it stilcking out that you can get a good set of vice-grips on it and get it out. I don't like cork gaskets and went with the Felpro rubber gasket on mine. It is a bit pricey, but it requires no selaer, it's reuseable and very good quality :thumbsup:

The roll/light bar came out of a 2001 Ford Ranger. The tire mount (as stated above) is made by Fabtech :thumbsup:

The roll/light bar came out of a 2001 Ford Ranger. The tire mount (as stated above) is made by Fabtech :thumbsup: