BLHTAZ

Actually, we are working on that. Keep an eye on the other thread that I started in "The Pub" as it will be updated with that info when it is available.

:roll: Gaming computers are expensive. I am glad that I have never had any interest in gaming. Check out www.cheapguys.com They specailize in custom built computers if you know what you want and typically do it for a pretty good price.

I had the BFG A/T's on mine for a short time and they sucked. The on highway ride was good, but they had no traction off the pavement at all. I don't use the MJ for trail riding, but I did get in some sand a few times and in only 4-5 inches of sand I had to use 4wd to move. I have driven through the same sand in my 2WD 2002 Ram truck, stopped in it, parked in it and drove out with no problem with Nitto Terra Grapplers on it. I have also taken th MJ in the same sand now with the Swamper TrXus M/T's and had no trouble in 2WD. I have never like BFG tires other than the Krawlers...and I never will after than experience. ProComps are always my recommendation for A/T's & M/T's ;) .

It's not very difficult at all. There are only 4 bolts (1/2" socket) that hold the fuel rail down. You remove them, disconnect the fuel line & vacuum hose from the regulator at the front and you can pull the rail out with injectors attached. I prefer to discconnect the fuel line at the rear and take the rail completely out of the truck and change the injectors on a work bench, but it can be done without doing that. The biggest pain in the butt is the little metal retainer springs around the electrical connectors as they can be a bit tough to get off sometimes.

I have been told that it is "normal" for the renix engine to take several rotations to start. Mine always cranks for 3-5 seconds before actually firing up. I thought it was a problem, but 3 different people have said that it is normal for this engine. Not sure if you really have a problem or not as mine will also take a bit longer or even a couple trys to start if it has been sitting for a while.

Yea...they are some Design 1 single port injectors from a 4.6L Mustang that I bought from a guy on eBay for $20...MAN, what a mistake :oops: :roll: They were an improvement over what was in there when I bought the Jeep, but it just goes to prove once again that you get what you pay for.

Most of you have seen the thread I started about the deal on the upgrade injectors for our Jeeps. It is HERE if you haven't seen it. Well, I figured I would post this here instead of clogging up that thread with it. Anyway...I am very happy with the results. Smoother idle, better acceleration... and MPG is to be determined as it will take a week or so to run some gas through it to calculate that. It was at 14.5 prior to doing this. I had a very rough idle when I first started it after the change. I thought that I had crossed up some of the plugs, so I started moving them around, but to no avail. Finally...I found this... :oops: :headpop: Yes, I know the valve cover is leaking... ;) I guess the rest of it got blown through the motor... :eek: :nuts:

That would be about a 235/75/15. A 31x10.50x15 will go on it, but it will rub badly, therefore meaning that it does not fit. 31's need a 3" lift and a wheel with about 3.75" BS to fit without rubbing.

It would be an AW4 from that donor. The 32RH was not used in those that I know of. The AW4 is definitely a better tranny, just more difficult to install, but as long as you have the complete donor vehicle you should have all that you need in terms of wiring harness, computer etc, etc... OH...and if it's 4WD, you will need the t-case to go along with the AW4 as well.

It will have to opened up to determine the exact cause of the noise ad to see what needs to be repalced. Could be as simple as spider gears or as serious as a complete rebuild. The baffling this is that you say it stops/quiets when you push the clutch...that doesn't make a lot of sense to me if it's a rear differential problem. I guess if it's a ring & pinion issue or carrier bearings going bad it could make a difference in sound by taking pressure off of it when you push the clutch, but I have never heard of that before.

Yes, they come ready to install. They even have some lube on the o-rings so they are ready to slide in right out of the package. :D I am going to go outside here shortly and install mine :cheers:

Yea...he lives fairly close to me. He moved to Florida while working for a Mortgage company that went out and left him in the street. The injector business is a family business that he decided to work with his father who is actually in NY where the injectors are built. He just does the eBay & website work. Right now it is his only source of income, but seems to be doing fairly well.

He offers injectors for many types of vehicles/engines...not just Jeeps. I did check and he said he would honor the discount code for ANY injectors purchased from his site using the discount code " JEEP ". Purchases made on eBay from him will NOT qualify for the discount. The purchase must be through the website.

I just got this from Wojtek at Precision. He saw the post here because he traced the URL back from CW's purchase... ;)

Too many people reman them with caps & seals, but they don't properly clean them or replace the filter inside so the flow rates are eratic and can cause very inconsistent performance. Mine runs great some days and very rough on others...but, I will say that it is better than the stock injectors were...just not good enough for me though.

I did that too, but for less than that. I am not completely happy with how they are working so that is why I bought from this guy to get some good "guaranteed" injectors. I will be installing mine this weekend so I will update this with my experience as soon as I can.

:rotfl2: Damn man... You are fast! I just sent you a PM to direct you to this post and you were already here. 8)

Some of you have seen my other post about setting up a deal with a company that is remanufacturing the Ford/Bosch Design II fuel injectors with the "4 hole" delivery end. Well...it is finally set up!! :D If you need to upgrade or have just been wanting to...now is the time. I have met the owner of this business personally as he is in Orlando, FL and hand delivered the set I bought to my house :eek: 8) . He is a great guy with a real nice product. Precision Auto Injectors is the name of his business. Click Here to go to the full description of these injectors. (they are shown in sets of 8, but you are buying only six) Here is how "The Deal" works... You can use the Google Checkout button right at the top of the product's full description. That gives you the option to choose Priority Mail or Express shipping. Now if you choose Google Checkout you enter coupon code "jeep". This gives you an additional 10% off the purchase. This is a great deal off an already lower price than I have ever seen on these injectors. The coupon code also applies if you prefer to use Paypal. With Google Checkout you do not have to go through the store's checkout process as you can just click on the button. If you pay with Paypal you have to fill out your info with the store's checkout system and then you get sent to Paypal's site to finish the payment side. The coupon on the store's checkout system is also "jeep". Remember...use coupon code... JEEP Please let me know if you experience any trouble as he is a very nice guy building a good business and wants to make this a good relationship.

That usually means that the vacuum actuator in the t-case has gone bad or is just stuck. Tap it a little bit and see if it breaks free. If not, take it out and check to see if the plunger pushes in & out freely. If it's stuck and you can not get it to release...time to replace it as it could be keeping your front axle engaged all the time even though the t-case is not in 4WD.

Why bother hooking anything up. I just disconnected the wires so no lights come on. They are not needed as I am sure you can tell if it is in 4WD or not without a light ;) . Just my personal preference though as I hate lights on the dash...especially useless ones like that.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Based on that pic I would say the lower ring. The top ring in your pic appears to be the exhaust pipe...but, I am not sure from what I am seeing. That appears to be an original sensor with a metal shaft. Mine had a ceramic shaft so it must have been replaced before.

Guess I should have added that I tried just the wrench thing, but to no avail as it was stuck tight. I went to the exteme because I could not get it out ;) . Guess I was just ASSuming that he was going to have the same trouble. Let's hope not, but there's a how to if so... :chillin:

Be careful using shackles for that much lift as they will change your pinion angle and can/will cause vibration issues as well as destroying your ujoints if used too long without making a pinion angle adjustment.

Don't know of a write up on it, but I found it easiest to do from under mine. I didn't have to remove anything to do it. I simply used 4 tools...a 1/2" drive ratchet, socket, wrench and a set of wire/side cutters. To get the old one out I unplugged it, took the handle of the 1/2" ratchet and smacked the ceramic part of the sensor to break it off, cut the wires and left nothing but the base part of the sensor in the pipe now easy to get a socket on to remove. After a good shot of PB Blaster and a couple good persuading pulls on the ratchet it came out. When the old one is removed you then simply screw the new one in and just snug it in good with the wrench as the socket will not work on a complete sensor unless you have the special socket with the side cut out made for such jobs. Good luck... :cheers: