Keyav8r

Installed mine yesterday and today (had to go get some bulbs). I believe I'd leave the blue lens off if I did it again because there's not a lot of light shining into the ashtray. It's not important enough to pull the knee panel again, but if I have to pull it for something else (and remember) I'll remove the lens and see how it looks before I put the panel back on. Don - if you're adding this for light to see change in the ashtray you might want to try it with and without the lens before you put it all back together. Edit: Forgot to add - 91 Eliminator and the connector is there and has power when the parking or headlights are on. Looked through my parts stash (trying to find a good bulb) and found 2 or 3 more of these lights.

Well, I've got at least one of the ashtray lights but I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull the knee panel to install it. One more thing to add to my to-do list.

The to-do list is too large this weekend. You guys have a good time!

Noticed that when the truck is sitting still the fuel gauge will show the higher reading but as soon as I start driving the reading drops to around 1/4 tank or less. Low fuel light doesn't come on. If I sit at a traffic light long enough, the gauge reading will gradually come back up to the high level only to drop again when I start moving again. Don't know if this adds anything to the diagnosis process, but it is another piece of the puzzle.

Those look like they're throwing a lot of light and if it's focused that's even better. I need a set for my Ram. Are you still liking the LED headlights?

Take a good flashlight and a tarp or old blanket so that you can get under the truck. In addition to the floors, check the rockers, cab corners and rear wheel arches for rust. Look at the inside of the wheel wells as the rust may be hidden by the flares. As previously said, look for bad wiring, especially in the engine bay - extra wires running all over the place, unbundled wiring harnesses, etc. Check wiring under the dash also. People sometimes hack wiring up when adding new radios, amps, etc. if some of the lights (headlights, tail lights, brake lights and turn signals) don't work correctly that's a signal of wiring issues. Check the valve cover, timing cover, oil pan/rear main seal, transmission, transfer case and differential for leakage - future work for you if they're leaking. Check the heater/vent/AC controls to make sure everything works. If air flow doesn't change when you move the control from vent to heat to defrost you may have vacuum leak issues. Check that the gauges work in the instrument cluster. Remember that you're looking at a 27 year old truck. There will be some things wrong. If there are a lot of things wrong either adjust the price you pay to compensate for what it will cost you to fix them or walk away and wait for a better one.

Problem - erroneous fuel gauge readings. Background - When I bought my MJ the fuel gauge was not working correctly. Even with a full tank the gauge would not go above 1/2 full. The low fuel level light works, so I know I have time to get to a station when it comes on. When I dropped the tank to replace the leaking fuel vents I reached in through the filler neck with the universal tool (straightened coat hanger) and moved the sending unit float arm through its full range and checked the readings with an ohmmeter. They were pretty close to 5 ohms at full (arm fully up) and 105 ohms at empty (arm fully down). Today I checked the ohms at the tank connector against the ohms at the instrument cluster connector - both were right at 40 ohms. Gauge reading was between 1/4 and 3/8 tank on a partial tank. I replaced the fuel gauge with one from a 93 XJ, plugged the connector back on the cluster and the "new" gauge read between 3/8 and 1/2 tank. Since 1/2 tank ohms are 33, the gauge reading seemed more accurate. Then I drove up the gas station and filled her up. Bummer - gauge only came up to around 5/8 full. Drove back home, crawled back under the truck with the ohmmeter, and got a 30 ohm reading at the tank connector. I checked the gauge side of the circuit by checking the ohms between the body side of the tank connector and ground and got continuity (0 ohms). Turning on the ignition with the connector un-coupled causes the gauge to go past empty and turns on the low fuel level light (greater than 105 ohms resistance). Putting a jumper between the body side of the connector and ground causes the gauge to go past full (less than 5 ohms resistance). Based on this, I believe the gauge is reading correctly per the ohms in the system. Having checked the sensor previously and getting good readings from it, the only thing I can think of (other than the sender having gone bad) that might cause this is a defective float on the sender arm. Has anyone experienced a bad float? After I burn some of the fuel down I'll drop the tank again, pull the pump and sending unit and give it a full checkout. Any ideas of what else could cause this problem?

Problem - erroneous fuel gauge readings. Background - When I bought my MJ the fuel gauge was not working correctly. Even with a full tank the gauge would not go above 1/2 full. The low fuel level light works, so I know I have time to get to a station when it comes on. When I dropped the tank to replace the leaking fuel vents I reached in through the filler neck with the universal tool (straightened coat hanger) and moved the sending unit float arm through its full range and checked the readings with an ohmmeter. They were pretty close to 5 ohms at full (arm fully up) and 105 ohms at empty (arm fully down). Today I checked the ohms at the tank connector against the ohms at the instrument cluster connector - both were right at 40 ohms. Gauge reading was between 1/4 and 3/8 tank on a partial tank. I replaced the fuel gauge with one from a 93 XJ, plugged the connector back on the cluster and the "new" gauge read between 3/8 and 1/2 tank. Since 1/2 tank ohms are 33, the gauge reading seemed more accurate. Then I drove up the gas station and filled her up. Bummer - gauge only came up to around 5/8 full. Drove back home, crawled back under the truck with the ohmmeter, and got a 30 ohm reading at the tank connector. I checked the gauge side of the circuit by checking the ohms between the body side of the tank connector and ground and got continuity (0 ohms). Turning on the ignition with the connector un-coupled causes the gauge to go past empty and turns on the low fuel level light (greater than 105 ohms resistance). Putting a jumper between the body side of the connector and ground causes the gauge to go past full (less than 5 ohms resistance). Based on this, I believe the gauge is reading correctly per the ohms in the system. Having checked the sensor previously and getting good readings from it, the only thing I can think of (other than the sender having gone bad) that might cause this is a defective float on the sender arm. Has anyone experienced a bad float? After I burn some of the fuel down I'll drop the tank again, pull the pump and sending unit and give it a full checkout. Any ideas of what else could cause this problem?

Good call, Pete. Mid-June sounds good. How about trying this to get a good consensus of who wants to do it, when and where? Start with two dates - June 11 and June 18 (?) as they are mid month and weeks away from the July 4th weekend travel cluster. Two locations - Birmingham and Montgomery (?) Everyone who is interested in a meet can then chime in with their first and second choices on date and location. For me either date works and location #1 - Birmingham, #2 - Montgomery. If the location ends up as Birmingham and we settle on a date and approximate number, I'll check with Barbers Motorsports Park & Motorcycle Museum about meeting there. Just an idea. I'm open to whatever way the group wants to go.

Sorry I didn't check that out better. I believe that's the same group that meets the first Saturday AM at Krispy Kreme in Hoover. Based on my reception with the MJ there, they're a little snobbish toward "late model" vehicles. Would not be a good fit for us Jeep people. Barber's Motorsports Museum is not a prospect for a meeting on 4/23 as that is the weekend for the Honda Indy Grand Prix races. It would be cool to be able to meet there and see the races but the place will be packed (wouldn't be able to find space to park together) and the ticket prices are high, if they're even available this close to the event. We need to nail down location (Birmingham or Montgomery), date, time, duration, and number of vehicles expected to come before trying to find a venue. Some of the shopping centers allow car gatherings on their outlying parking areas. Krispy Kreme in Hoover (city that abuts Birmingham to the south) could be a prospect, depending on how many of us would be there. I don't mind checking out some possible locations in the B'ham area but need answers to the above quickly as we're just a week away from the meeting date. Can't help out on prospective Montgomery sites as I won't be traveling there this week.

Appreciate that, Bignuke. I've been to Rock Hill and it is a pretty long drive from here. Linex is looking more affordable.

I just heard today that there will be a car show at Oak Mountain State Park on 4/23. The park is just South of Birmingham off I-65. I believe the Dixie Vintage Car Club (or Association, not sure about the group's name) is hosting it. Why not crash the party with a bunch of MJs? I'll get more info on the show and post it early next week in the event anyone is interested.

The herd is increasing again!

FarmerBrown5 - I appreciate it brother, but that's a little too far to go for a bed liner. Thanks for the offer. Your kind of attitude is what makes this forum great.

4/23 in B'ham for sure, in the MJ. In Montgomery - maybe, in the Ram

There was 91 Cherokee in the B'ham Pull-a-Part that I'm planning on pulling the cluster from if it's still there when I get time to go by there. If it's gone I might just take you up on the offer.

Don - I dropped the tank to replace the vents. While I had it down I reached in through the filler neck and moved the float arm with a straightened coat hanger while back-probing the connector on the pigtail from the sender. Readings at full and empty were right in line with your numbers. I didn't simulate 1/2 tank. Probably should have. I guess I'll break out the wiring diagram and get my Vietnam era Marine avionics tech brother over here to educate me on the finer points of wire tracing and then check and clean every connector. Trying a different gauge is just a lazy way to eliminate one possible faulty part.

Well, you know there are stacks and there is STACKED.

If they won't go all the way through to the engine bay they won't vent, so why do it? If you're doing it for looks there are probably some aftermarket fake vents that can be attached with 3m double-sided trim tape that won't perforate your sheet metal and can be easily removed.

Looked at the Car and Driver 25 Cars Worth Waiting For article again. They say the Wrangler pickup will be a 2018 model. C&D rated it #3 behind #1 Camaro Z71 (or some number), #2 Bugatti Chiron (1200 HP or more), and ahead of #4 Porsche 911R.

Do the 91 & 92 MJ and XJ use the same polarity and range on the sender and gauge? Or, more to the point, will a fuel gauge from a 91 XJ cluster work correctly in a 91 MJ cluster? My sender checks out OK at the tank but the gauge never goes above 1/2 tank when filled up but the low fuel light works a low fuel level. I need to ID the wires at the cluster to check the ohm readings there and compare them to the readings at the tank, but thought I'd change the gauge first (if I can find one).

My hinge pins aren't roll pins. They have a flat head about 1/16" thick. I've tried driving the lower driver's side pin out from below with no joy. There's not enough room to get a drill to it. Might be able to drill it if I took the door off, but that's not gonna happen.

Car and Driver has the Wrangler pickup in this month's issue as one of 25 cars worth waiting on. Read the magazine and left it at the office and don't remember if they said look for it in '17 or '18.

That's just wrong.

As the title said - need one or I'll have to go spray-in. Does anyone have a source for caps/covers for the top of the sides of the bed?