Biotex

" 303 Aerospace Protectant 303 Aerospace Protectant really is like "SPF 40 Sunscreen ... For Your Stuff." Regular use gives 100% Prevention of UV caused slow-fade with regular use. No other "protectant" beautifies as intensely, protects as powerfully or lasts as long." IMO this is by far the best UV protectant. The other thing is you can use tire covers like RVers do. A tip on using 303 for things like your dash. Just spray it on liberally, and walk away. DO not wipe it on. It will look like a professional detailed your car. If it drips or puddles in an area, you can dab it up a bit, but don't wipe on it. I spray everything inside the car, and it has the wet look.

The ground for the rear tailights is behind the drivers side tail lenses assembly. The ground for the fronts are on the driver side inner fender up high, about in the middle. Make sure all bulbs are correct. The sockets themselves have been known to lose their grounds, so look for that also. To help isolate the problem, you can disconnect the front harness at the connector Cruiser above mentioned. If the problem goes away, you know it is in the rear section OR it is the multifunction switch inside the column. I just went through the same thing, and after replacing the switches, sockets, grounds, it turnes out someone put in an 1156 bulb into an 1157 socket in the rear tailights, and it shorts out and causes strange things to happen.

I'm hearing you. The exact same thing happened to me on an IH dealership. I had several boxes of hoses, belts, spark plugs, tune up parts etc... I couldn't give the stuff away. But, the 3 thirty pound jugs of R-12 was a different matter... 10 cases of oil with lots of the zinc still in the formula.... gotta take the good with the bad.

Congratulations on the promotion. I always hated having to have all new patches sewed on my uniforms, but heck as a Master Sergeant you can now pay someone else to do it and have enough left over to buy another Comanche. Just sayin.... :cheers:

I talked to him and he said he had aready sold the bumpers. He said he made his money back in the first week. He also mentioned that he kept most of the good dtuff for his own self. He's wanting $500 for those ARB D35 lockers.

I have a trailer and will travel up to 500 miles from SW Texas. A parts XJ would be ideal. 97 up I'm told. I don't need the engine, but do need an AX-15 and an NP231.

This is the slave on my YJ. See the two lines exiting the bell housing? One goes to the master cylinder, and the other just ends with a bleeder attached. They are on the driver side.

I just got finished installing a new master and slave on my YJ. I filled the reservoir up with new fluid, and opened up the bleeder. I depressed the clutch and held it to the floor until the bleeder is tight, then let up on the clutch pedal. Open the bleeder. Depress the pedal and hold it down. Close bleeder. Let pedal up. Open bleeder. Depress pedal and hold. Check reservoir level and add fluid as necessary. Close bleeder. Let pedal up. Open bleeder. Depress pedal and hold. and on and on and on until all air is out. The other method is if you don't have a helper with a strong foot.... open the bleeder and attach some new clean clear tubing on to the end of the bleeder with it kept open. Put the end of the tube into a jar of new brake fluid. A clear jar is best so you can see the bubbles coming out. Elevate the jar so it is as close to the bleeder as possible. The end of the tube needs to stay submerged at all times. Pump the clutch slowely and the air will be forced out into the jar and escape as bubbles. When you let up on the pedal, it will try to suck backwards through the tube, but since the end of the tube is submerged in brake fluid, it will only suck in fluid not air. You do it until you see no more bubbles in the jar. Then close the bleeder and see if it feel right. If it doesn't , you convert to an external slave... :yes:

About as nice as they come for an 89.

I still have the original lug wrench, jack and the handle behind the seats. The jack is stuck in the raised position, so I was thinking of ditching it all and going with something that works better. What are my options? XJ gear?

Thanks for the 4D-40 tip. That worked best of all. I have to admit though when I looked in the kitchen, I could not find Josh's wifes orange extract. ;) I even tried lacquer thinner.

I'm thinking Goo Gone and Goof Off basically work the same. I tried Goo Gone, and it made no difference. My residue was baked on in the desert sun for many years. Sure hope it comes clean with something...

Thought I'd share the schematics on how to wire up the interior lights when installing the Euramtech Map light A-7180-BC The letters in red correspond to the Euramtech diagram above

My new interior lights have arrived, so I now need to clean up the area where someone used duct tape to hold the light in many years ago. My interior is in really good condition, so I don't want to remove the color or scratch it up by scrubbing it too hard or being too abrasve with it. I tried goo be gone and it didn't even phase it. Has anyone had this problem and what can I use to remove the yellowed residue? Does lacquer thinner discolor the dyes used in the interior?

Forget the box. Wrap it in bubble wrap and tape it up real good. Send it fed ex ground. They will accept it and it will be lighter.

How sad! Usually that info was stored on micro-fisch (sp) and no one wants to take the time to go through millions of builds to get the data, and it cost a fortune to digitize it. Oh well, the best we can do then is to interpolate by figuring out how many units could be built in a month. Get a rough idea maybe...

Cool! Are those the Renix guages for the early MJ's? Pre 91? Not sure what an indiglo overlay is though.

Interesting... I would think Jeep/chrysler would have released those numbers. Has anyone tried contacting public relations and requesting it? What plant were these manufactured at? I'll see what I can come up with. I know of a couple of ways to get that info...

Trying hard not to be such a spoon fed newbie, I searched some more and think I found the answer... Is this correct? I need the cluster that is blue on the back vs. white? Years from 87 to 90? FYI: I ended up using the google search with this- site: comancheclub.com upgrade guage cluster jeep comanche

I was about to purchase a cluster and the sending units that would replace my idiot lights ( i thought), and the seller kindly warned me that they would not be a plug and play swap since my MJ was an 88. I don't mind having to do a little bit of modification or whatever else I need to do, but would like to know ahead of time what I need to do. My understanding is that my speedo is a cable drive, and his cluster is electrical. I'm sure there is a writeup or something on here, but I did not find it in a search. So my question is should I be searching for a set of guages that are specific for the cable speedo, or is there a workaround?

Flint, Please educate me on why the OEM bumpers are so desireable, as I'm new to the scene. Is it just that guys like a 100% original truck, or is it that the aftermarket ones suck? Personally I would be just as happy with a homemade rock crawler style bumper, so i'm really curious as to what the big deal is. Also, what are they worth/going for? Being that I have one...

In the registry section, I would like to see factory production numbers for each year and model pinned at the top.

Sure thing. I need some. Mine are present, but look sad. All warped and flimsy and wrinkly looking. I ordered some aftermarket b pillar lights already, so don't need those. Backdraft was going to send me some pics of his, and I don't mind buying both pairs so I can have spares. Thanks all!

Oh yeah, I need a center console also. I have the light grey (bluish) interior.

Mine are a bluish grey, so anything that matches so so. I need those plastic clips that hold them in place also.