ftpiercecracker1

Just now fully read your first post, all i can say is what an ungrateful little (you fill in the blank). :shake: Now i REALLY can't wait to see it. :popcorn:

Oh, sh*t :peek:

Pump? In the transfer case?

I just finished doing this on mine, but i can't figure out what to do about power steering. With every other acc on the block being Renix how do you add PS? My current pump is from a 99 wj and it bolts right up to the intake but i have no way to tighten the belt. The 99 hydralic lines were a perfect match to the Renix steering box as well.

Truer words have never been spoken. By the way, a common place for a short ot occur is at the very front of the intake manifold. There is a small group of wires that run down to the Coolant temp sensor (CTS), Knock Sensor, and O2 sensor. Sometimes this cluster of wires is laid directly on the header pipe of the #1 cylinder, you might already know where this is going. Super heated header burns through electrical sheath and eventually melts down to bare wire causing all kinds of havoc. I am curious as to why the PO had to install a quick disconnect. :hmm: Did he give you any other details?

The thread size/pitch of the pipe you are talking about is extremely hard to find, believe me i searched. I just ended up cutting it off, folding it over two times, smashing it good and flat, and putting it back in. I really wouldnt worry about reusing it.

I will say it does look pretty nice, but this guy. :shake: http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/3568938084.html

Very true. :laughin:

Monroe

The EGR and Fuel pump resistor share an orange with black stripe wire. There are acutally two wires, but they are crimped together as they run side by side through the loom at the front of the engine bay. When i cut the EGR wires totally free of the harness i did not make enough of an effort to identify which wire went where. As it turns out, the ballast resistor wire runs to a large electrical plug above the group of black relays. The EGR wire is the one that goes to the relay, however this doesnt make sense because the particular relay it goes to is supposedly the a/c relay. :dunno: ONE WIRE, caused the following. . . pump would not prime pump would not run with engine running Fuel gauge read WAY over the full line at all times TPS ohms were off the scale, don't ask me why. Once i corrected the miss ran wire all of the above were remedied. pump primes and runs beautifully Fuel gauge AND low fuel light work TPS readings are well below 1.00ohms, even on most sensitive scale (200)

See "fuel pump/wiring issue" thread for final answer.

Words cannot express the joyous feeling of finally solving a difficult electrical issue, so i'll just use emoticons. :banana: :banana: :banana: :rock on: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: more later. . . :typing:

Sooo, you are willing to change the head, but do not want to change the intake or exhaust? :hmm: FYI, you can use a 7120 head AND the 99+ intake and still keep you renix exhaust man/header. There are a few modificiations, like TPS and fuel lines, but other than that its pure bolt on. Make sure gasket match for the INTAKE. Also look for a 7120 head that is drilled and tapped for the temp sender/sensor, its located in the far back driver's side.

Take off a few hundred and i would snap that thing up. I mean, why the heck not? Runs and drives great according to seller, just needs an alternator and steering box. Sure its ugly as sin, but hell for 500 bucks who cares. :D

:needpics:

Something else else, I cut out the entire EGR system, wire included, i traced them back to where they came from and snipped them off with 4-5in remaining, in case it needed to be reinstalled.

Another development. . . The wire for this pin is the orange wire you see directly below it. Image Not Found This wire run down behind the battery and joins with another identical orange wire, which then carries on as a single orange wire. The wire wraps around the front of the truck going over to the driver side, where it runs into this. . . Image Not Found It is NOT a plug as you can see, i actually think it is some kind of fuse. :dunno: Image Not Found The bottom orange wire is the one coming from, the gray wire goes to the CTS, the one in the radiator. The other orange wire, the one in the middle goes to this. . . This is the relay/base for the electric cooling fan. It has 12v going to it, but even with a jumper wire going from the 12v pin to the orange wire's pin there is no power at the fuel pump relay. Image Not Found The 12v stop at this contraption, middle orange wire has 12v, bottom orange has nada Image Not Found

The relay that is pulled is the one that powers my fuel pump. This is the pin that I would think 12v would be coming in on, at least that is true for the two next to it. Image Not Found But, if you run a jumper wire from this pin. . . Image Not Found To this pin you can hear the fuel pump running and see the pressure increasing on my guage. Image Not Found I am wondering if there is somekind of pressure sensor that tells the fuel pump whether or not to run based on the PSI in the lines.

Check what again? Yes i have a/c. If you are thinking i have the wrong relay, i know its the right relay because when you put a jumper 12v wire on one of the tabs you can hear the fuel pump kick in. I'll take some pictures, maybe that will clarify things.

I know this is REALLY dredging up the past, but its near identical to my problem. With mine the issue is that pump does not prime, turn key on, nada. But the truck does start and run, albeit breifly. I have found that the in the row of 4 large black relays the rear most relay is the fuel pump relay. The relay checks out and the pump is good. I have found also that there is no 12v going to said relay, while there is to all others. Which pin is supposed to carry the 12v?

Well, i am able to start the motor but it won't stay running. Starts normally, RPMs drop like it is going to try to idle but after a few seconds it really starts to struggle/stumble and even with gentle feathering of the TB (by hand) it still dies. Also when you try to rev it, it hesitates, SEVERELY. I have a few ideas, 1. To adapt the HO fuel lines to the Renix ones i cut the Renix lines about half way underneath the intake man. When i cut through the Renix lines i noticed there was somekind of paper lining in them. I am wondering if when i pushed the HO metal lines into the Renix rubber lines did that "paper" peel off and clog the lines? 2. I followed Cruiser's TPS adjustment writeup, the TB is brand new from Leigh performance (63mm). I used my multimeter like he instructed, but there are several settings for OHMs, 200k, 20k, 20m, 200m, 200, and 600. Set on the lowest setting for OHMs (200), with the black lead on COM and the negative battery terminal and red on OHMs and touching the 'B' lead of the TPS plug the meter reads 40 something. According to Cruiser it should be less than 1! 3. The fuel pump was working, and it still seems to be because the engine does start and run however limited, but when i put my fuel pressure tester on the schrader valve i get nada, key on or engine running there appears to be no pressure. This is what makes me think the lines are clogged. This is a 93 ZJ 4.0 99+ intake manifold Renix exhaust manifold Custom TPS adapter (DIY forum) Bored out TB (63mm) ALL engine control/electronics are RENIX.

7120 is the "best" of the jeep 4.0 heads, you will find some who say that the 0331 head is a fraction better, but its track record as extremely prone to cracking far outweighs any minute advantages it has over the 7120, if any at all. But like Alexia said the only TRUE after market head is the all aluminum one, but i can think of A LOT of other things i can buy for that kind of money.

WhaHOOOO, SHE LIVES ONCE MORE!!!! :jump: The issue with the fuel pump WAS the ground after all, in a last ditch effort i cut the ground wire half way back, ground off a spot on the frame, used a good ole self tapper and grounded that sucker. I went in the cab, turned the key and heard the sweet sweet hum of a working fuel pump. Now to go change my sig

Ok so after a little more tinkering, starter works great, when you turn the key you have to hold it at its farthest turn. But the Fuel pump is still not kickin in, i used the trucks battery and manualy tested it and it works fine. The incoming plug has power and i deduced which wire was the ground (red with yellow stripe) and grounded it, still nada. There is a third wire in the plug, but i am not sure what it does. Here is a little information that i failed to include for one because I thought i had it right and for two i doubt anybody on here knows this kind of detail purly from memory. Here goes, the EGR solenoid and the Ballast resistor share and wire (orange with black stripe) . This wire runs out and infront of the truck in a wiring loom, during removal of the EGR i snipped where theses two wires merge, about in the middle of the truck. Being in a hurry i failed to take note on which wire went where after the merge. I traced both wires and found one went to a large electrical plug right next to the row of four black relays (passenger side fender well) The other wire actually goes to one of the relays, the one closest to the firewall, i think. I decided to connect the wire that goes to the Ballast resistor to the wire that went to the relay. I will take pictures to make this a little more clear.

That would explain alot, because the bed isnt on. :rotf: I have the pump in a brand new tank, will it still run with the tank completely dry?