aemsee

With CAN you have two dominate nodes each with 120ohms terminating resistance. Every other module in non dominate and has approx 3K terminating resistance. I cannot remember my CCD (seems like so long ago :nuts: ) enough to remember what the resistances in the modules are. Have to do some research.

The people I saw at the store were still CC employees. I think one of CC's downfalls was from a few years ago when the owner fired the majority of full time staffing and refilled with a bunch of parttimers. I noticed the difference in customer service. There were more workers playing with stuff than helping. I started going to BB even though it was further away and didn't have as good of deals. Another example of poor leadership. Sorry about your job loss.

The sad part of all of this is that I believe the scan tool justs puts the theft/ receiver module in to program mode, and the module does everything else. Can't speak CCD can you?

I would certainly be willing to give it a try. I probably have some old books around to tell me what termination needs to be on the CCD bus if you need it.

What would you need the voltage regulator for? Also, another thought ( up to three I think :chillin: ). There may need to be another module on the bus to make it work. The DRB becomes a dominate node on the bus, but CCD needs two, and the RKE module is :dunno: ?

I hate it when stuff fixes itself :dunno:

Well any chance you could grab an XJ and the DRB and take my sets and program them for me? Finding the XJ would be the problem. We don't have anything older than 2008 there. (of course if there were a couple of silverstars available for purchase :brows: :brows: ) Nice? How many were there and how much did you get them for? I could build a benchtop programmer for it, just connect to power and plug in the DRB, think you could do that for me? I meant get the silverstars FROM you. Aren't you sitting on 30 or 40? :yes: . I was thinking about the benchtop idea. I think I saw a couple of DLCs kicking around in a box somewhere. Would need to power up the DRB and the reciever module, and supply bus between them. Can't remember if they talk over the CCD or the SCI bus for the program mode.

It looks like a friggin tribble for gods sake.

I pulled a NYS Trooper out of the median with my K 10 a long time ago. He was crossing to chase someone and didn't realize how muddy it was :rotfl2: . We ended up knowing some of the same cops. I'll take all the 'get out of jail free' karma I can get. He too was VERY thankful. Here in NY, if you pull someone out of the ditch in the wrong area, you will be ticketed for doing so. Some places have a little kick back between the cops and the tow operators. I drove part time for a while and it got pretty contentious at times btwn tow companies.

Well any chance you could grab an XJ and the DRB and take my sets and program them for me? Finding the XJ would be the problem. We don't have anything older than 2008 there. (of course if there were a couple of silverstars available for purchase :brows: :brows: )

Actually have about 10 now, but they all belong to the training center :D

Hey Brent, Do you remember if it was a sequence thing? Like hit lock/unlock on one, then lock/unlock on the other and it would put it in programming mode? I always had a DRB on my toolbox so I used it, but I kinda remember reading that someplace. Of course Chryco had to change things every onther year or so. program through the door module, then through the BCM, then the central timer module, then the theft module, then the SKI module :ack: :nuts:

How ya gonna keep it lit?? :chillin:

What? You don't like the original Nike Swoosh?? :dunno:

What training center you go to, Atlanta or Richmond?

I didn't spend too much time in there. I was still unemployed and thought better of it :no: . I may have to venture back tomorrow though. After all, it is my birthday sunday :brows:

This is from the 99 FSM: REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING To program the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter access codes into the RKE receiver requires the use of a DRB scan tool. Refer to the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual for more information. The SKIM key can be programmed with two other valid keys.

I went to ours last week. They appear to have raised most prices before slashing them.

I would think that it'd be lower at 2500.... Maybe because theres some sort of "sweet spot" between the throttle being slightly open and still pulling air on the plenum through the engine.... :hmm: Not to :hijack: too bad but, it is dependent on throttle angle. 2500 RPM sitting still is totally different than 2,500 going down the highway. Especially on a lil 2.5

Nice job!

[quote="BLHTAZ The only other thought I had was that there is a minimal vacuum leak somewhere that is only showing effects at low RPM right now. That would actually act the other way. Higher vacuum at idle, lower at higher RPM's

Poor circulation would definitly cause this type of a concern. Let it sit at idle til you lose heat. Pop the hood and feel the hoses. Are they both cold? If so, raise the idle and see if they heat up.

And if it matters to you. That isn't a POT, it is a linear Hall effect device. ( If it is the dual APPS set-up)

Look at the firewall near where the heater hoses go through. There should be a black vacuum hose (plastic) going through and a pink one coming out going to the water valve. Be sure the pink one is hooked up to begin with, or if someone eliminated the water valve, and it is just sitting there, plug it. The black one most likely goes to a 'T' fitting on another line. Follow that both directions looking for a broken or disconnected line.

Check to see if it is coming out the defroster ducts. That is default in case of a vacuum failure.