aemsee

Sounds like possibly two issues. A lack of vacuum to the control head, and a cable disconnected from the heater door. With no vacuum to the heater it defaults to defrost mode, but the temp (blend) door is cable controlled. So even with no vacuum you should have been able to slide it all the way to 'cold' and just had outside air coming in. Of course if it was hot out, and your engine was hot, it wouldn't have been 'cold'. I would check the vacuum lines going to the control (there are possibly ten posts about this so far this year). As for the temp door. Slide the knob all the way hot and all the way cold, with a bit of force. You should be able to hear the door thud as it closes both ways. If not, it may just need adjusting.

I had this habit of photo copying pages out of owners manuals and stapling it to repair orders. Got in trouble a couple of times for it :D

Yea, I have a couple sets of XJ roof racks, plus I have a swb bed liner thats under mount already :brows: Well I will be traveling in a Sebring convertible. Can probably do the rails, but the bed liner might be too much :D . You need to add this stuff up so I know how much cash to bring!

Yes yes yes! You know when the first cold snap in the fall happens when every idiot that has one brings their car in because the tire light is on. You check all the tires, they are all the same low pressure, you top them off, usually to 34-36 PSI and you send them out the door, usually without getting paid anything. Stupid people! And I say 34-36 PSI because I had one once that was right at 32 PSI and the light wouldnt go off. Filled it to 36 PSI and all was well! There is a hysterisis built in where the light may come on at 29 psi, but won't go out until you hit 34 psi. But of course the systems are different year to year and model to model. It's Chryco and nothing can be done the same.

I noticed while trying to do my swap that the lever that is attatched to the case is a different length between the 231 and the 242.

So, are you using nutrs and washers, or did you install nutserts like in the XJ roof?

Hmmm...boy that sounds familiar :idea:

Hey, ya got any XJ rails sitting around the warehouse there Bob?

I figured nuts and washers would give it more strength than self tappers.

That is a great idea. I will also be stealing that one. Just need to trim my bed liner so that it is under rail instead of over rail.

No, the AW4 does not seal against the transfer case. The output seal is in the AW4 tailhousing. Look inside the recess the output shaft sticks out of. You should be able to see the sealed end of the case through the tailhousing. Willy So, you are saying that there is NO fluid in the extension housing on the AW4? That is just not true. And since I can see between the output seal and the output shaft, then it most certainly seals against the t-case input hub. I would say you have a seal that needs to be replaced. There shouldn't be any fluid there. There is no gasket or silicone between the transfer case and transmission to retain fluid in the tail housing. Think of it this way. What would be the point of fluid in the tail housing? There is nothing to lubricate and there is no way for the fluid to circulate through the rest of the transmission once it gets back there. Willy You are confusing the space between the extension housing/ transfer case and the extension housing/ transmission.

That is a stupid system, no doubt Das. I liked the old static interval reminder that was customizable by the owner. Speaking of vehicles being made for the mindless, how many times have you had to put air in someones tire because the low tire light came on? Service witers need to explain to customers that they can get air at most any gas station. They don't come in when the low fuel light comes on, do they? means put more fuel in, so they do!

No, the AW4 does not seal against the transfer case. The output seal is in the AW4 tailhousing. Look inside the recess the output shaft sticks out of. You should be able to see the sealed end of the case through the tailhousing. Willy So, you are saying that there is NO fluid in the extension housing on the AW4? That is just not true. And since I can see between the output seal and the output shaft, then it most certainly seals against the t-case input hub.

Bo Derek wig :D

Hey! Who you calling stupid! :D . I've been prefilling oil filters for 30 years

Time to determine if it is a mechanical problem or an electrical problem. Get a mechanical OP guage and hook it up in place of the OP sender.

Don't just think pieces of metal and stuff as far as debris goes. There are also contaminates that will jell cold but melt and mix in with the oil when it is warm. How much does it really matter? Who knows. More important that you just change it on a regular basis. Do you fill your filter before you install it since you let the motor drain down for an extended period of time?

The EGR tube connects the intake and exhaust. Need to remove that or the exhaust manifold with the intake.

Let's see...you asked for an explanation regarding changing your oil when it is warm vs. cold. Das gave you a very concise explanation that jibes with everything you have read. Yet you insist that he his wrong (as well as everyone else). You are obviously not looking for information, just validation. :shake:

As for removing the hub from the other side...stick a deep socket (something fairly large, say 3/4 to 7/8, between that part that got elongated (stub shaft ear) and the axle tube, then start the truck and turn the wheel toward the socket. It will pop out the hub and axle assy. (remember to take out the three bolts first!)

So what was wrong with your 23" monitor?

I too favor the Saab vents. Maybe even in line with the hood stripes. The Le Baron vents look like furnace duct vents.

As I was writing this I was worried you might feel bad about it. DON"T!. I'm still liking the idea on hacking off the output shaft. Unless I can figure out how to get that whole 242 from you (IF it has the deep input shaft).

Since the output seal on the AW4 seals against the t-case input shaft, the trans is wide open.

Seriously?? Why have the shaft spinning? Do you recommend a raincoat or umbrella to deal with the trans fluid spraying out of the AW4? :D