aemsee

You REALLY need to go back to work Brent :D

Spent a few hours yesterday getting this installed. 60 gallon, 3 horse. Wish it had a bit more HP, but seems to be OK. 11.5 cfm at 40psi and 10 at 90. $399 at Tractor Supply. Definitly better than the oil-less ones from Sears.

OK, I will be the voice of counterpoint here. After seeing the pics of YOUR t-case, I think you will be in for more than $150 for the rebuild. That input bearing is super FUBARED and unless you had chunks of metal in the space between the t-case and seal housing when you split them, then those pieces went in to the t-case. For $60 I would at least take a look at what the JY has to offer. Covered with years of sludge from constant leaking, then leave it. Bring something to pull the drain plug (and catch some fluid) and see the condition. If it is dark and burned, or showing shiney flecks, then leave it. Shift it in to each range and spin it by hand to see if it engages and is smooth. If it is already dry, pull the drain plug and look in with a flashlight. Look for debris. You can also check for an excessively loose chain as well. I think $60 for a t-case is a steal.

That is going to be true of just about any FWD seats. Too wide for the easy swap. I've been trying to find some nice buckets for my 73 Hornet for years and the FWD seats are just too much work.

Nice try if there is on loan/lien on it the check goes tothe repair shop. You get the check only if it has no lien against it. Did you forget what board you are posting on? Can you say 87 Comanche...lien.....doesn't sound right, does it? :rotf: I can get a loan on a 87 or I can have a mechanics lien put on one too... :cheers: Yeah, you can probably get a loan for a BJ as well, doesn't mean it's gonna happen. But hey, thanks for playing :thumbsup: .

After taking another look, it appears that there is NO INNER RACE! Did the PO assemble bearing pieces so that the balls are riding right on the input shaft? If so, find a replacement for sure. Hopefully it just looks like that due to the photo angle.

Pete gave you the good news, here is the bad. You are missing half your balls! :eek: . What is up with that input bearing? Did you do that attempting to remove, or was it like that? If it was like that, those ball bearing may have ended up in the case.

Nice try if there is on loan/lien on it the check goes tothe repair shop. You get the check only if it has no lien against it. Did you forget what board you are posting on? Can you say 87 Comanche...lien.....doesn't sound right, does it? :rotf:

Sorry, can't answer your questions, but someone can

Just look at the pan to see if there is a dent there. No dent, no worry.

What kind of condition are your engine and trans mounts in? The little 2.5 is a beast for shaking. That is why there is supposed to be a mini shock absorber mounted to the front of it. Do you still have the mounting bracket at the front of the cat con that runs to the trans cross member mount?

Overall it is not a difficult process. But to do it right takes paying attention to detail. From their previous butchery I wouldn't trust them. After seeing the care you put in to all of your work, get them to pay up and we can walk you through it easy enough if you have any questions.

Actually bought it from Quadratec, they sent me a replacement kit, unfortunately that kit also has the wrong brackets. They also promised to call me back Friday afternoon to let me know what will be done, but that call never was made either. I will be calling them right away Monday morning. Good luck with that. I have had piss poor service from Q-tec in the past as well. I swear that too many companies have no idea what customer service means.

Did you do this yet? Quick and free check. You want to see nice shiny lead before putting them back together.

They are going to have to do the whole dash. I wouldn't let them touch it. Get a price for a replacement dash, and add in the labor time (call a local dealership for a quote) and tell them the price. They are obviously not qualified to do a windshield, much less take apart your dash. If they won't pay up, take them to small claims court. They should have insurance for that. There is absolutely no excuse for that butchery. The right amount of media attention and they won't be doing too many more windshields.

I think I might put my money on a AX15 over the 3550.

If the CTS is causing the truck to run rich, then that might be it. Although that should be causing high HC numbers also. Did they give you the actual failure numbers?

Make sure you do a good check on the oil pan where it juts out on the pass side. That is where the oil pump is. I have seen numerous cases of the pass side UCA mount hitting the pan, denting it in and cracking the oil pump without puncturing the pan.

I have seen many mount bolts broken on stock Cherokee's over the years. Could be a combination of low quality bolts and too much torque when being tightened.

How tough was the s10 seat install? Have any shots of the brackets you fabbed? That seat looks great in there.

Make sure that your linkage is properly adjusted and you are truely in drive and not manual second. If that is OK you may have a valve body or govener pressure problem.

How is the 1-2 shift?

Chrysler uses multiple compressors. Some require pullers and installers, some don't. COMPRESSOR CLUTCH The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement. The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle. REMOVAL Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Cooling System for the procedures. Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness connector. Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench (Special Tool 6462 in Kit 6460) into the holes of the clutch plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove the hex nut Clutch Nut Remove Remove the clutch plate and the clutch shims. Remove the external front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers External Snap Ring Remove Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool C-6141-1 in Kit 6460) into the snap ring groove exposed in Step 7, and install the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2 in Kit 6460) Shaft Protector and Puller Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws of the rotor puller and tighten Install Puller Plate Turn the puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is free Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing Clutch Coil Lead Wire Harness Remove the snap ring from the compressor hub and remove the clutch field coil Clutch Field Coil Snap Ring Remove Slide the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub INSPECTION Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley and the front plate for wear. The pulley and front plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring. If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the compressor for oil. Remove the felt from the front cover. If the felt is saturated with oil, the shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be replaced. Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if required. INSTALLATION Install the clutch field coil and snap ring. Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw. Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front compressor housing hub. Thread the handle (Special Tool 6464 in Kit 6460) into the driver (Special Tool 6143 in Kit 6460) Rotor Installer Set Place the driver tool assembly into the bearing cavity on the rotor. Make certain the outer edge of the tool rests firmly on the rotor bearing inner race Rotor Install Tap the end of the driver while guiding the rotor to prevent binding. Tap until the rotor bottoms against the compressor front housing hub. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the rotor. Install the external front rotor snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring must be facing outward. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor. Install the original clutch shims on the compressor shaft. Install the clutch plate. Use the shaft protector (Special Tool 6141-2 in Kit 6460) to install the clutch plate on the compressor shaft Clutch Plate Install Tap the clutch plate over the compressor shaft until it has bottomed against the clutch shims. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the clutch plate Replace the compressor shaft hex nut. Tighten the nut to 14.4 N·m (10.5 ft. lbs.) Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge Check Clutch Air Gap If the air gap does not meet the specification, add or subtract shims as required. The air gap specification is 0.41 to 0.79 millimeter (0.016 to 0.031 inch) If the air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, lightly pry up at the minimum variations. Lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the new clutch Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation. CLUTCH BREAK-IN After a new compressor clutch has been installed, cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty times (five seconds on, then five seconds off) During this procedure, set the heater-A/C control to the recirculation mode (Max-A/C), the blower motor switch in the highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch torque capability.

How do you know that the original compressor is good? What caused the clutch to go bad? Swapping clutches doesnt necessitate a system discharge, but you will probably need a special puller, and you will need to set the clutch air gap with shims. Might be easier to swap whole compressors.

Who did the rebuild, you or a shop? A weal spark could just be a bad connection or bad ground somewhere, or a bad coil. Dist is definitly timed correctly, yes?