drcomanche

I'll check that tomorrow and hopefully I can get this thing out. I don't want to spend too long driving a DD that has no seat belt for me.

So, today started well enough with me replacing my primarily tan interior with a grey that matched my dash and console. Everything was going fine, parts were fairly pain free to install. Until I got to the drivers side seatbelt... I have the T50(I think) Torx bit to get the bolts out, but when I got to the drivers side bottom, it didn't budge at all. It's probably worth noting that it had some decent rust on the bolt, but the bit seemed to grab really well. It just didn't move. I hit it with some pb blaster and waited a while, finishing up some other parts and came back. This time it began to move slightly with some forceful pushes on the ratchet. Or so I thought. At this point, the head of the bolt sheared off. It just broke in half somehow.... slamming my hands into the back of the cab, possibly breaking my knuckle, and making me VERY angry. I switched to my grip bits to get some bite on the stem, but, I'll put this simply, it ended with the end of the bolt being mangled beyond belief. It would grip, and then promptly strip of a section of metal on the stud. :wall: What do you guys suggest I do now? I'm at a loss, and I had to stop trying anything today to avoid destroying something in my anger that could not be repaired. How do I go about removing this bolt?

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34071 Repainted it Toxic Orange, I believe, with red and green decals. I hope you plan on keeping the color, I think it looks great.

You know, I had completely forgotten that, of all the things I replaced, I never managed to get my o2 sensor out to replace it. That thing is practically cemented into the exhaust pipe. I'm pretty sure it's never been replaced, either, so I'll go try to yank that out.

I actually just replaced the regulator. I'm not sure about the fuel pressure, don't have the tools to read that, but it starts fine, hot or cold with no problem.

So, I've been trying to diagnose why my truck is running rich and I have come down to the fuel pump and whatnot. Now, when I replaced the gas tank, I got a good look at it, and it was a jerry rigged set up to say the least. The pump itself was held on by metal clamps to keep it from moving with a large chunk of metal to space it correctly. So, what do you guys suggest. I'm not sure if it's just the pump being poorly sized, or if my sender is broken, but what would the likelyhood of this being my problem be?

So, let me get this straight... The want to reduce foreign oil dependency by upping the Fleet fuel efficiency standard. So what happens when they completely crush our automotive industry. We will just be shelling out money for foreign vehicles instead. Sometimes, I wonder what it takes to be a congress member...

To the best of my knowledge there are only 2 around Lusby, MD. I saw a stock white one driving on the road, and another about thirty minutes north in Dunkirk, MD that used to park at the Wawa. I always see them for sale, but never on the road... Kind of disheartening.

Looks good. Comes with some very clean looking tail lights and a black interior. I was just reading in the pub about people liking the checkered seats, and who would have thought? This truck has the same bench seat. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-Jeep-Comanche-Laredo-Standard-Cab-Pickup-2-Door-4-0L-4x4-shortbed-6-ft-/251108650102?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a773dec76#ht_702wt_1165

Got into looking at it today, and yeah, air is definitely not making it through the tubes. The culprit ended up being the metal line that runs up to the engine bay. It just happened to be rusted completely shut, or at least I think it's rust. In any case, some kind of buildup has rendered that line impassible for air. So, on to my next question. Where can I find a replacement for that line? Do they even make them anymore?

I had noticed this before, but for some reason never thought about it until I went to replace my fuel pressure regulator on the rail the other day and it just spit fuel out till kingdom come. With a bit of quick thinking, i was able to alleviate the problem by taking my gas cap off and letting the pressure out. I was just wondering if this is normal operation with these engines(which is a 94 Cherokee 4.0). Every time I drive out for five minutes to get gas, when I take the cap off I can hear the air being forced out as I loosen it. And it isn't just a little hiss. It lasts for 10 to 15 seconds. I was also wondering if this may be a cause to my high rpm backfire when I shift.

Wheel Mounting Surface

Bellhousing bolts are snug. And it doesn't do it only after I reverse either. Sometimes I don't have to back out. I have also noticed that it is significantly less likely to occur when I'm on level ground, almost never happens. When I back out I'm climbing a hill in my road. Don't know if that will help narrow the ideas? :dunno:

:agree: As long as it isn't chrome, and if I remember the turbine wheels, it isn't, than a brillo pad will work wonders. I did this with an old set of wheels a long time ago that were caked with dirt and brake dust. The combination of the soap, the steel wool, and a bit of elbow grease will get them looking like new.

Since my truck will be undertaking a cross country trip at the end of the summer, I have been looking into putting A/C into it. So what I would need is... Well, everything. I have the Control unit in the cab and that's it. Anything else related to air conditioning, I need. I can find some of the main components online, but the small stuff is the most difficult for me right now.

I'll check the level and see if it is low, but I haven't had any leakage from it. The whole drivetrain was pulled from a 94, and I believe he told me it had around 140000.

Thanks.

I am currently using the redline MT90. I haven't noticed any damage to the clutch line, but I'll check it.

Well, it has become increasingly more difficult to get my transmission into first gear recently. It's to the point where I am just barely able to get it into gear by force. It has nothing to do with the clutch master, that I know. But sometimes, it just doesn't want to go into first gear. I have never tried to put it into 3rd or higher from start, but if I try to put it into second, I get the same results. I literally have to jam it into gear. This, strangely, only happens right when I am starting to drive(it also gets worse with warmer weather). It has NEVER done it on the road. None of the gears grind (except reverse, but that is typical) and there is absolutely no issue shifting after I have started going. This is more of a nuisance than anything, but it sucks to back out of my driveway, only to be stuck in the middle of the road struggling to get it into first gear. Any ideas?

Well, first thing is first. You at least have the correct tank to mount up to your truck. There are plenty of occasions where people switch out the sender unit, but I haven't seen a difference in them. Did the fuel gauge accurately reflect the fuel level before you decided to replace the tank?

Title pretty much says it all. I'm looking for the bracket that bolts to the underside of my bed for the cable system to the e brakes. I tried finding it online, but every place I find it wants some absurd price for it.

I locked my keys in once, but luckily, I had a roughly 3 foot or 4 foot piece of quarter inch steel rod I was using to make a guide. I shimmied it in between the top seal on the drivers side window and the glass and used it to open my rear slider. Those rear sliders are a godsend when you accidentally lock your keys in. In the end, no damage to the vehicle.

Well, if all goes well, and I get my grey interior, I'll have some tan door panels extra (and a whole load of other tan parts). They could use a good cleaning, but the backing board is in great shape.

My god... Is that yellow one going to sprout wings and fly? What could he be preparing for? And while we are doing the pickup mods, I own a 928 and I always hated when people did this to them... but hey, to each their own... :thwak: And then this disgusting example of a modified vehicle. Every time I see that 928, I want to run it over and put it out of its misery. :doh:

There are multiple parts numbers since there is a large aftermarket production of these, but just hop onto ebay and type in Jeep Comanche starter relay. but if you haven't touched the wires, I don't know where it could have gone wrong. What condition are your battery cables in?