drcomanche

Thanks. It took quite a few years to get it to this point, but I find myself venturing into other art forms, and so, my automotive art has become lacking in comparison to, say, my comic book or design art. It was a nice refresher to make this one. Now I just need to find one to buy... :brows: And here is a slightly updated one. Fixed the windshield, and a couple of other proportional details.

Can't wait for the changeover, looks great.

Well, for some background, I have been drawing cars for years. I started out middle elementary school wanting to be an automotive designer, but, as you all have seen, the industry isn't exactly the best thing to try for right now. So, every now and then, I like to sketch out some concepts or make a custom modded vehicle from a source pic through freehand drawing. Since this one happens to be a Jeep, I figured I would share the dream here. Every since seeing a picture of a CJ-10, I have been fairly obsessed with it and how awesome they can look when beefed up for offroading. This is a result of that obsession and some boredom. The source image And my sketch. The axles are a bit wide, but I like the way it sits. I'll have to get back to the windshield and fix it. It isn't wide enough in the sketch.

It isn't a Renix engine, though. The Comanche may be an 88 but the entire drivetrain is 94 cherokee, including engine.

sorry, forgot about the wires, but yes, they have been replaced, and I have sanded and made sure all my grounds have good contact points. At this point, after some research, I have vaguely heard that the new IAC requires a certain setup to "tune" it? I never hear about it, but maybe somebody on here knows how it works? As for the rough idle and misses, I'm think MAP sensor or TPS.

I have replaced: Spark plugs Cap Rotor Ignition coil injectors Air filter Fuel filter Mass air sensor Exhaust headers And while I did the headers I cleaned all my ports and the intake manifold, including the channel for the IAC(not with it in, of course).

So, I purchased a new IAC for the Comanche, but when installed, it idles at 3000 rpm off the bat. I looked at my old one and it seems to be stuck in the open(?) position, with the plunger sticking all the way out. With that one installed, it works ok. The idle stutters and sometimes idles at 900 and other times 600. It definitely misses a lot, but I'm not sure if that has to do with the IAC or the age of the vehicle. And it gets pretty terrible gas mileage, even for the tires. Any ideas? On a may be related side, the truck does backfire when shifting at mid to high rpm, and I still haven't been able to change my O2 sensor.

The size is different from Cherokee to Comanche. I believe the Comanche's are longer.

I think you are talking about your tank vent lines. There should be two that run from the opposite corners of the top of the tank and connect to a splitter, and then to a hard line that goes to your engine bay, and eventually your charcoal canister. As for your problem, I don't think those will cause you any difficulty to that degree. Mine aren't really linked up to anything right now since my hard line is clogged with rust and it doesn't effect my driving. It sounds to me like your pump may be going, but I'm no expert. Somebody else should chime in with a more detailed explanation.

If I had the money to stick into a vehicle like this, I think it would make a good project. Comes with a bunch of extra parts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-194 ... 500wt_1182

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-JEE ... 500wt_1182 I wonder what the build date is...

Wish I lived closer to that.

The plug is too big to fit through it.

That seems to be the best option since the O2 socket just bends. However, I would hate to sever the wires on my dd and it still not come out.

So, as if I need more stuck bolt problems after the seatbelt to frustrate me, I can't seem to get my O2 sensor to budge even a bit in either direction. I have heated up the pipe, pb blastered it, got the specific socket for O2 removal, I even got desperate and locked the vice grips on there, but nothing worked. :headpop: Any ideas?

Yeah, I've started cycling gears before I really move anywhere, and it seems to help some of the time. Thanks.

Today, I received a new ignition coil in the mail, which, asside from my O2 sensor are the last parts I need for a complete tune up. It was a painless procedure that took maybe 10 minutes and the return was pretty good. It idles much lower and smoother than it used to. New Coil The old coil, and I didn't notice till it was pulled out but there are cracks running all across it. Installed I also have some pictures of the rear brakes I installed with the parking brake provision. And for further elaboration, here is how the seatbelt ended up working.... Few more parts will be arriving soon, So I'm looking forward to some good repair time on the truck.

The Comanche looks great with all the detail parts back on. :cheers: And that Honcho is a monster!

It's been a little while since I posted, but that's only because I'm lazy(and camera-less... the ex took it). I took a few pics with my cell this afternoon so I can update everybody on whats happening. First of all, I changed out my worn and beaten Iroks for some relatively cheap(but not to say lacking in quality) General Grabber Red Letters. Another upgrade for me that I recently got, was an all gray interior, so now it can match and cover where pieces were missing. During this upgrade, I somehow managed to torque the head off the bottom driver's side seat belt bolt, leaving is firmly cemented in place. I tried using channelocks, die sets, torched it, and then, in the end, drilling it out. I managed to get a 7/64 bit through then a 9/32, then a 5/16, and then the 3/8ths snapped off the the hole... No amount of drill bits nor dremel items would remove it. So, I just gave up on it and thought out my own plan here. The mangled bolt end. So, I drilled it through on the frame rail overlaps for the added strength, and that way, later I can get some thicker steel plate and weld directly to the frame, and never have to worry about my seatbelt again. Still have to pick up the grade 8 hardware for it, though. All it took was a little trimming on the plastic cover for the end and it fit. In the process of trying to remove the bolt, I managed to damage the stock speaker, which really wasn't that hard considering it had all the tensile strength of a tissue. I went and grabbed some cheap replacements for it and installed those, which offer a considerable amount more volume than the OE. I have installed some rear calipers I found online. They are GM Large calipers with the 7 inch mounting spacing, which rid me of my squeaky pads in the back. These calipers also give me the advantage of now having a proper e-brake, since they have that provision. I just need the cables and handle now. I don't have any pics of that one, though. And my final report is I got around to cleaning, sanding, and priming my axles. The front one is about to get a TnT truss, since I found a guy willing to help me weld it for free, and from there, I would like to be able to paint it.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/ctd/3198397989.html Here you go.

It looks good but that has yet to be seen as it is pulled apart. Hope all goes well with it.

This truck is looking great right now. I'm really digging on the Honcho paint job(I'm a huge fan of twister). It looks great so keep it up.

That color... My god, that color is awesome... It is perfect for the MJ

Tried an easy out, it just mangled it more. I tried the dremel tool and made some flats, but again, it just slipped the bolt. I found a great deal on a tap and die set and tried that, but it wouldn't grip it. I guess I'll try the candle idea here, and if worse comes to worse, I'll just drill it out and retap it.

Grabbed some new vice grips from the store, and went to work on it today. I couldn't find it sticking through the floor it seemed to go into my rocker area, so no access that way. I put the grips on it as tightly as I could possibly muster, turned it, and, it stripped the metal from my grips before stripping the metal from the bolt... No matter what, I think this thing is just permanently stuck there. My last options are: Drill it out and re tap the hole, weld a bolt onto the top and see if some real heavy torque will work it out(with heat, of course). On another note, I had thought about the for a while, but where my door latch is has holes on the top and bottom where they weren't welded on completely(whereas the opposite side seems to have been a bolt on application). I had always thought that it was a pretty convenient way for water to get into my rockers and cab corners, so I took a look at them. The all sound good when tapped, but along my rockers, when I pushed on it, I could tell there were some parts that were a bit too thin. I suppose now is just as good as any to cut the rockers off and put on some 2x6 steel.