drcomanche

It could be, although it would be unlikely. Do you have a wiring diagram? And have you checked up the wiring to and from your ignition switch? Sounds to me like you either blew a fuse or relay, or one of your wires isn't connected like it should be. What was entailed in your dash removal process? Did you take everything out? or just the dash cover?

Funny thing I found about mine on the decoder. Man has it come a long way. Country of Manufacture United States Manufacturer Jeep Corporation Vehicle Type Truck Engine 2.46L, 4 Cyl, TBI Powertrain 5-speed manual, floor gear shift, 2 W/D Body Type Jeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 6.0 foot bed, 113 inch wheel base Gross Vehicle Weight Comanche Pioneer = 4001 - 5000 lbs Assembly Plant Toledo, Ohio, USA Model Year 1988 Read more: http://www.jeepz.com/forum/vin.php#ixzz1nWo3TR4Z

Have you checked all the fuses under the hood? If you were messing with electrical components when you did the dash removal, it could have blown a fuse.

I know of a few reasons this could happen. For me, and this only happened a few days ago, my battery was shot and couldn't hold enough of a charge to actually turn the engine over, even though all of my accessories worked. I would try the neutral start first, like motion said, and if that doesn't work check your battery terminals and do a voltage test. If that comes up short, it's your battery. If not wiggle them around a bit and then try again. Sometimes the terminals get dirty and it gives a bad connection. Another problem it might be is your starter is gone. In any case, it sounds like you aren't getting the power somewhere in the system. Does the starter click at all when you turn the key? I couldn't hear anything from the video, but you would be able to hear it.

You, sir, were absolutely correct. :bowdown: Went back and checked all my bolts and, wow, did they loosen up after I did that repair. It was easy to turn the lot of them. It also probably didn't help that my intake tube from the box the the manifold had slipped off a bit.

Well, after some research, I found out why it's so difficult to find these caliper. Turns out, the po welded on the GM big bore brackets, so it has a 7" mount to mount spacing. They don't make a whole lot of REAR brake calipers for that size especially with the e brake. I found only one company that makes them, and they are $160 a piece, including banjo bolts, slide bolts, spacers and pads. I would need to buy the cables separately, and then figure a way to rig an e brake into the truck, since it didn't have one to begin with.

This sounds about right to me. I used to fill it up as soon as it hit empty and I would get anywhere from 12 to 14 gallons into it. Since i had installed my gas tank, I knew it was an 18 gallon tank, and I decided to run it after empty. Mine has no problem running a couple more days on the gas in the tank. But then again, I have no problem going 2 weeks without refueling, so I'm getting into the high teens if not more on gas mileage. Pretty good with all the parts on it considered.

I'm looking for a Jeep Comanche that is preferably in good overall condition(driveable is definitely a plus). It would be nice if it was within 100(maybe more depending on the offer) or so miles from Southern Maryland. I just need something for parts, so certain options are beneficial to me, like a dark interior and bucket seats. Just shoot me a post and let me know what you have, I'll consider anything.

So, as it turns out, I will be getting a pretty decent amount back on my taxes, and we all know what that means... MORE PARTS! :cheers: This will give me the opportunity to purchase some parts that I wouldn't have been able to get before now. So my question to the knowledgable people of ComancheClub is what do you guys think I should get for the truck? I've looked over a couple of things already, and some parts that are being considered are: A TnT truss with brackets to sort out the mess that is my front axle and give it a bit more strength. This would help with my steering problems and my on road vibrations, and could give me a chance to rebuild that front axle, change all the bushings and whatnot. The issue I have with this is that my experience with welding is nonexistent, and I don't want to mess up the axle, so I may have to get it professionally done. The other problem is that this is my only vehicle, and my daily driver. A new bunch of Interco Iroks. My front tires are looking a little worse for the wear, so obviously that's the benefit there. A rear locker for the 9. It already has a spool, but that thing is absolutely destroying my tires and gas milage, and being able to turn does help a lot(plus, it will keep me from fishtailing in the roundabouts). So, anything you guys suggest? Any opinion on what I have already?

No, I've had a decent look at the Teraflex kit, and although I like it, the issue I'm having is that the PO bought a brake kit without the e brake caliper. It is a complete disc brake kit, just missing the e brake. I have a welded on piece that looks like the brackets on the right side, not that they are the same ones... :roll: And also, this is for my rear 9" axle

Nothing anybody? This is something I really need help with. I've tried individual sale research, but I keep ending up with manufacture specific calipers. If that's the case, what manufacture specific caliper may fit it?

Is this bad for me? I mean, it isn't one of my drive gears, and it shift perfect now, so what would be the downsides to this?

Any idea where that may be? I just replaced the gasket, so I don't think(or rather I hope) it's not that.

I know I need a new clutch kit in the not too distant future, but I was having a lot of issues with reverse gear for a loooonnnnggggg time. It would grind every time i tried to put it into reverse. One day, at work, I had the clutch peddle pressed a little too long, and it lost pressure, so when I tried to put it into reverse, it ground like no tomorrow. But strangely, ever since that happened, it has been a breeze to put it into reverse. It hasn't grinded since. And ideas why this might be? Impending doom for my transmission?

So, since I already have the welded on brackets and disc brake setup in the rear, I was wondering if anybody could pin down where I could buy just an individual brake caliper with an emergency brake attachment to it without having to buy the whole 400 dollar kit. I would like to spend less money on this, and if I already have half the parts, why not. It's an old 1979 ford 9 inch axle with a single piston caliper and some 11" discs(I think).

a couple of new symptoms on this, the sound NEVER gets quieter as the speed goes down, and I found that when it happens is directly linked to how many rpms i have. if its over 2000, it squeals. But again, only when I'm driving and let off the gas. Any ideas?

6 inch coils from rustys and TnT long arms on the front, soa and shackles on the rear netting just about 6 as well. Running with 36" Iroks on custom D44, 9" combo.

The "speedometer gears" you were seeing were most like the unit that you put into the transaxle. Those, if that is the source of your problem, are easy to replace. Is the noise coming from the speedometer itself, like from the dashboard?

Well, for the second time now, I have made a long trip in the truck, and I'm getting fed up. Whenever I hit a bump, and it doesn't even need to be that big, I swear it could break windows. The truck bounces off bumps so violently, the whole truck creaks and rattles. Is there something I should be looking for? Is this just something I have to live with? And also, when at highway speeds, it likes to steer a bit to either side. I have to counter it by steering the opposite way, but sometimes the change in direction is so sudden it makes me drift real close to other lanes.

Recently, I changed out my very yellow and cloudy transmission fluid :fs1: so that's good news. I tossed in some MTL and the shifting seems to be a bit smoother, although I'm still grinding going into reverse a lot. Here's a pic of all the metal deposit on the plug, and a few of the fluid. I've heard that that means bad things for my syncros, but I can't find the article anywhere. I also decided to take a chance and do my header replacement and gasket changes since my old header was cracked. It turned out to be a lot easier than I thought. While I had it out, I cleaned all the carbon out of the intake manifold and cleaned out the ports a bit. I replaced all the gaskets and the injectors while I could access them. When I went to start it, though, it did NOT run smoothly. It sputtered and hesitated, and had a very strong gasoline smell. I spent a lot of time checking and rechecking all the hoses and wires, but nothing. Eventually, I got around to dismantling whole sections again, but luckily, when I got under the truck to look and see if I had a gap between the block and the intake, I noticed that the new gasket i just installed was wet underneath the intake ports. I removed the fuel rail again and found the problem. The injectors that were supposed to fit my model and year didn't fit at all. The nozzles on the ends were too big to properly seat into the manifold. I switched it out with my old injectors, reinstalled it all, and poof... runs like it just came off the assembly line. I also recently installed some polyurethane bushings for my rod ends on the tie rod, which kept it from rotating back and forth. As an added bonus, it completely eliminated my death wobble. :clapping: It even survived an hour and a half trip up the road. It's still has a lot of bounce going down the road and I can feel the lack of tire balancing and alignment. But still, some major improvement! The last thing I would like to say is that, because of the truck consisting of 4 or 5 major components of other vehicles, I'm changing its build name to project Frankenstein.

Problem with that is, as I said before, it only happens when I'm driving. And even then, it only happens over 25 to 30 mph. I'm all for the stethoscope method, but I feel like that is a bit too extreme while moving. :rotf:

You think the belts might be too tight? I did just finish up replacing the header, so i had to remove the power steering pump and the belt.

Well, now that I know where all the parts I need are... :eek: Soooo many tail lights...

It just started to do this yesterday, but whenever I let off the gas I can hear a prominent squeal from the engine bay. As soon as I hit the gas again, it stops immediately. I played around with it and just tapped the gas a few times in a row, and it immediately starts and stops as I hit the gas. It also doesnt do it when I'm under 25 or 30mph. Any ideas?

Well, in any case, the injectors were too large at the end that was supposed to slip through the hole in the manifold.