DirtyComanche

You should be able to a fit a 35x12.5 without much fuss. The inner pinch seam will have to be beat over. You will need a 15x8 rim with 4" BS at MOST. 3.25 would be better. Be aware the the D30 won't like that though.

Gonna cut? 35s.

Most kits (except skyjacker) simply have you cut the stock mount off and never worry about it again. If you look at the TNT customs one, the LAs mount to the big assed skid plate/crossmember that they give you. And it bolts to the unibody. The rusty's one mounts to the tranny crossmemeber (well, a new one). The terraflex ones mount to a bracket which is bolted to the unbody after you cut off the stock mounts. Personally I'd avoid the skyjacker kit just because of that...

Do your rear shocks tie into your cage or...?

Due to a slight lack of parts avaliability, I did some strange things today. I purchased a 84? Grand wagoneer LPD44 front. 3.27 gearing (booya) hub to hub. Sadly the steering is a bit fuxord. I purchased a 8- Izusu Trooper 12 bolt. 4.56 gearing, posi, disks. Drop out third Tha plan is to narrow my existing ford HPD44 housing to fit the GW shafts and weld the necessary bracketry onto it. I have decided I will keep nearly all of the jeep brackets in the same place with the exception of the track bar mount. It will be moved to the top of the tube, depending. A set of HPD44 gears/carrier will have to be found, and the front will also be welded. I am going to run the chevy 6-bolt pattern and possibly high steer, depending how things work out. And I located a set of chevy 6 bolt 15x8s. Total cost so far: Too much. The only thing that concerns me is that the Izusu rear might be a tad narrow, and I don't want to buy spacers. It measured 59" WMS I believe. Grr.

How'd you lift it?

Rusty's makes the regular style I guess. Ugly and overpriced, IMHO. Can't remember ther other brand of bulge fenders. They looked just as bad, I think. Are you buildign a pre-runner? Steel is a lot more durable for the most part...

A GW D44 front is 61 WMS. A rear is 58 WMS. Fun huh?

Bulge fenders? I wouldn't...

You should just be able to cut the outer bracing off it. Otherwise the mounts are identical. I think. Some of the smarter XJ guys buy the comanche braces from collision repair suppliers and weld them on.

GW axles aren't full width; they're 61" WMS to WMS. Personally if I was you I'd check all my bushing and see if the problem goes away.

Every 8.8 that I've looked at has run a larger than 1310 joint. I even have a flange that is definatly too big for a 1310. Bloody Fords :nuts:

I'd personally say go with the TNT-customs kit if you have the cash and don't want to build. It seems nice. Haven't heard anything negative about it.

A spring over will give you upwards of 6". That's with stock packs. My slightly bastardized spring over gave me 8". But, you're getting it figured out.

I think I'll jsut go fullwidths. Seems easiest. Now Pete, what did you do for a track bar with your ford radius arm abomination? Curious. I'm debating if I should keep all the bracketry in the stock location or not. Just because Jeep did it doesn't mean it makes sense. I want to inboard or outboard (would definatly prefer inboard) my long arms on the frame. Obviously I could rebuild the arms and keep the brackets in the same place. Or I could more all the brackets inwards about two inches. Hmm.

Hope not. Maybe I'm gonna go with a ford 9". I can get one cheap. I dunno what they'll hold though, because I'm gonna move up to 37s or 38s eventually...

That's not too bad. I can get tractor supply fender flares if I get VI'd. Then take them off. Although, a VI would mean they'd see some of the other things. Well, I've had decent luck with the cops so far. Maybe I should push it?

Nope, that was exactly what I wanted you to do. :clapping:

I'm getting junk yard rims... 8" wide and about 3.5" BS, IIRC. Hopefully it'll look almost street legal.

Ah, it's the ranger that 29 spline.

Please no! I'm trying to get him to take a sledgehammer to his Jeep. It's doing the world favour.

The D30 inner C's are kinda pushwah. I bent one of mine a bitsy, about 2*. Not a problem now as I blew that axle up anyways. But realistically a new axle shouldn't have that problem. Mine had a little air time issue that was resposible for that. I think. And even if the body is off only the caster will be affected. Most places can't even measure track.

Yeah, don't buy rusty's. It's not that great... To say the least. And accept that a little trimming will be in order. The inner pinch seam will eat your tires otherwise. And you can cut a bunch out of the outer fender and have it still appear stock.

Really, okay, all is good then. I'll probably get another 8.8 and put my disks on it. That might prove interesting, but should be possible.

Actually, F-150 8.8s are weaker, eh? They're only 29 spline instead of 32 or some jazz. Hmm, I might have to run a 60 rear. Tits.