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Everything posted by DirtyComanche
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Front is tricky. There's few good candidates. The nearest thing that I can think of is the Grand Wagoneer LPD44. You'd have to get it regeared, and weld brackets onto it. It's a lot of money to drop if you aren't doing it yourself. It's that or narrow an axle, or go fullwidths.
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steering box - AND new comanche!
DirtyComanche replied to urbanMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Somebody should. Mine has always worked and I have a spare if it stops... -
steering box - AND new comanche!
DirtyComanche replied to urbanMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Nope. There's a bunch of joints between the steering wheel and box. They shouldn't go bad, but check 'em out. Otherwise, can't help ya. -
steering box - AND new comanche!
DirtyComanche replied to urbanMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Tie rod ends. They all wear out if somebody forgets to grease the steering. -
Because we'd clean up. Pure and simple. Comanches actually have a racing history, unlike the XJ.
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steering box - AND new comanche!
DirtyComanche replied to urbanMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
what do you mean by loose? Like, you can turn the wheel a ways before the tires turn? It's not likely to be the steering box. A TRE or such maybe... -
Those actually look good. They wouldn't survive me though.
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The Escapade continues.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Thanks. -
He's got bulge fenders or w/e. His clearance issue should be his LCAs. Thus I said lower BS is better. Unless they only have a stock sized opening, which would make them garbage. Honestly, you'd not be able to turn with 4.5". I've got 4" and my LCAs are narrower than stock (LAs) and I rub the $#!& out of them with my 35s...
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The Escapade continues.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'd ask what an 8.8 actually measures, but I don't think anybody knows... I've got 1.25" spacers on both sides of mine right now. Is it 58" WMS? Or 57.5"? This is going to be a bit tight, perhaps... Oh yeah, anybody remember exactly how wide the leaf spring perches are supposed to be? My old oens are 43.5" Centre-centre. That's wrong, by a bit. I'm thinking 42"? -
Probably would do you fine. They're a bit aggressive if you're DDing it. Perhaps. But what the heck, eh? Oh, go phone the auto wreckers and tire places and see if you can get something used first. It's often a way better deal, especially if you decide they're too small.
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33's would be a BETTER choice in that the D30 will have a hope of living with them with stock or 297X shafts. The unibears won't blow up every week either, as you coul run a 4" BS rim without rubbing the LCAs much. And it won't look goofy. Depends what you wheel though.
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You should be able to a fit a 35x12.5 without much fuss. The inner pinch seam will have to be beat over. You will need a 15x8 rim with 4" BS at MOST. 3.25 would be better. Be aware the the D30 won't like that though.
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Gonna cut? 35s.
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Most kits (except skyjacker) simply have you cut the stock mount off and never worry about it again. If you look at the TNT customs one, the LAs mount to the big assed skid plate/crossmember that they give you. And it bolts to the unibody. The rusty's one mounts to the tranny crossmemeber (well, a new one). The terraflex ones mount to a bracket which is bolted to the unbody after you cut off the stock mounts. Personally I'd avoid the skyjacker kit just because of that...
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Guess what the big brown truck left on my doorstep...
DirtyComanche replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
Do your rear shocks tie into your cage or...? -
Due to a slight lack of parts avaliability, I did some strange things today. I purchased a 84? Grand wagoneer LPD44 front. 3.27 gearing (booya) hub to hub. Sadly the steering is a bit fuxord. I purchased a 8- Izusu Trooper 12 bolt. 4.56 gearing, posi, disks. Drop out third Tha plan is to narrow my existing ford HPD44 housing to fit the GW shafts and weld the necessary bracketry onto it. I have decided I will keep nearly all of the jeep brackets in the same place with the exception of the track bar mount. It will be moved to the top of the tube, depending. A set of HPD44 gears/carrier will have to be found, and the front will also be welded. I am going to run the chevy 6-bolt pattern and possibly high steer, depending how things work out. And I located a set of chevy 6 bolt 15x8s. Total cost so far: Too much. The only thing that concerns me is that the Izusu rear might be a tad narrow, and I don't want to buy spacers. It measured 59" WMS I believe. Grr.
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death wobble...i hate coil springs..
DirtyComanche replied to 88swampedmj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
How'd you lift it? -
Rusty's makes the regular style I guess. Ugly and overpriced, IMHO. Can't remember ther other brand of bulge fenders. They looked just as bad, I think. Are you buildign a pre-runner? Steel is a lot more durable for the most part...
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death wobble...i hate coil springs..
DirtyComanche replied to 88swampedmj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
A GW D44 front is 61 WMS. A rear is 58 WMS. Fun huh? -
Bulge fenders? I wouldn't...
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You should just be able to cut the outer bracing off it. Otherwise the mounts are identical. I think. Some of the smarter XJ guys buy the comanche braces from collision repair suppliers and weld them on.
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death wobble...i hate coil springs..
DirtyComanche replied to 88swampedmj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
GW axles aren't full width; they're 61" WMS to WMS. Personally if I was you I'd check all my bushing and see if the problem goes away. -
Ford 8.8 bolt right in???
DirtyComanche replied to PRLJEEP's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Every 8.8 that I've looked at has run a larger than 1310 joint. I even have a flange that is definatly too big for a 1310. Bloody Fords :nuts: -
I'd personally say go with the TNT-customs kit if you have the cash and don't want to build. It seems nice. Haven't heard anything negative about it.
