DirtyComanche

The first time I took the passenger side one off, I dropped it and bent the seam on the bottom, I had to fix it with pliers so I could close the door when I put it back on. They're pigs. Try doing the install and alignment by yourself.

I'm thinking it's like 3/16? But some type of metric (oh, that'd be an 4.6mm)? Anyways, these guys sell 1/4" quick release pins. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/524,4_1 ... -Pins.html I think they might make it easier to remove the doors. I have cut hinges, but it's a pig to put a 2dr XJ door back on as the alignment is kinda finickery and they're heavy. I'd leave the roll pin in the top hinge like it is, and one of these (but in a more suitable diameter if I could find it) in the bottom. Then I can just align the top roll pin and support the door with it easily enough, then mess around with the alignment for the bottom one. Thoughts? Off-base? Might work? Never pulled a 2dr XJ door so you have no idea what I mean by 'heavy'?

Lock-right, lock-wrong... So, have you rolled it yet? That cage came out cool. Kinda makes me want to cage my cherry. Maybe I should...

Do it. Cherries are fun.

I've never seen it in a 12 here. Just 4 bottles in a little carboard thing. Maybe if a guy knew a wholesaler they could get it by the case. And it's definatly got vodka in it. It says 'An excellent source of vodka' right on the label... I used to drink it, but haven't bothered in a long time. It's regarded as a cooler here - IE b*@$£ beer. So, no macho guy can drink it. And Ontario has different liqour laws than the other provinces (they're provincal laws... yeah...), so I can buy it at any government liquor store or independant cold beer/wine store (which is a liquor store, but it's cold, yeah...) I honestly can't even think of what it'd taste like if it's not vodka based.

They sell plastic radiator repair kits... Kinda hard to find, but if you look at plastic gas tank repair kits they often say they'll work on plastic radiators. Anyways, all they are is a peice of a plastic like reinforcement with a epoxy like substance on them. It's not epoxy though. It's something that dissolves the plastic for a short period of time, which seals up the problem, then the reinforcement gets bonded on at the same time. I think. They work better than JB.

Aren't JK axles 63" wide?

With highschool girls these days, I'd not rule it out.

A pretty common mod on XJs was to pull up the driver's side door sill (the plastic peice on the inside) and split open the wiring bundle inside, cut the fuel pump wire and splice a little more in, then put a switch on the side of the B pillar near the floor. Then it won't run at all unless the switch is in the correct position. My XJ has a butt-splice in that wiring bundle (a moron mechanic hacked it), and I despise butt-splices anywhere that they can get wet, so I might pull the wires and put a switch in mine. Even though nobody would ever bother to steal it.

And the answer is, a front 60 or 14B hub... Blah. Wonder if I can get some 14B hubs?

I'm in a bit of a pickle. I have a D60FF rear that the spindles are trashed on. I need to replace them. Solid sells weld on ones http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc ... product=23 They are slightly expensive, but brand new and bored out already (saves me time and headaches). Otherwise I'd have to get another housing with good spindles to cut off. Which is a waste of time and annoyance. Which is all well and good, but I think they want you to use them with a D60 front hub. Well, my hubs are fine, I want to use them. It's hard for me to get front D60 parts for a reasonable price here, and don't want to use them if I don't have to. So, how many different types of D60 hubs/spindles are there? I'm searching, but I've not reached an answer yet...

Exactly! I'm not saying what he is! And I know that! I said no for wheeling, not DDing.

I'm not saying what you did... I'm talking about mad clutch pack slipping. Read what I said. With a load on them it will start to spin the free (on ice) wheel and leave the other one stopped. I blew a L/S up doing this. Snow wheeling is largely about 'hammering down' and trying to maintain your momentum - it means you can easily be throwing 20 minutes of constant abuse at it while climbing a hill. This WILL kill a clutch pack LSD. Maybe not the first time, but it doesn't take many runs.

How can that possibly kill a clutch-pack LSD? With virtually no traction, the clutches aren't subject to enough torque to unlock and the axle acts just like a spool. There's no clutch wear at all. The original Trac-Lok in my '88 XJ lasted about 150,000 miles. Pretty simple. Ice on one side, not on the other, throw in a long 20* hill and I guarantee you by the time you reach the top the L/S will be unhappy. The issue isn't that you have no traction, but uneven traction. It happens a lot while snow wheeling.

Fully Selectable Lockers or Nothing for me...If I'm spending the $$$ I'm only going to do it once... Which is all well and good until you decided to upgrade your axles... Anyways, I'd take a full case locker over a lunchbox any day. But I'm comfortable doing a gear setup. Full case lockers are a lot stronger, and some of them work quite a bit better than the lunchboxes. Lockers definatly help when wheeling in the winter. You will kill a clutch-pack limited-slip if you get in situations where it is icy and wheel speed is required. So, a truetrac would be fine, but I'd not run any other L/S. Spools work good in the snow/ice too.

However, they didn't convert those to a 2dr, so they look kinda ghey-sauce. And I extend that opinon to chopped XJs.

Cool paint, looks kinda like my old cherry. A little lighter perhaps. New paint always makes things look a lot better!

Everyone I know, who has pro-comp x-terrains, hates them. :nuts: Having personally not used them, I won't say anything for sure. But everyone complained of weak sidewalls (like a BFG M/T) and pinhole leaks. And off-road traction was suspect at best, with the tire easily being outperformed. I asked about getting a set for my cherry, and was told to either man up and run Iroks, or to buy Truxus M/Ts or another set of MT/Rs if I wanted something a little more mild.

Dude... You're from Vernon. That's almost scary. I lived there... Umm, anyways, sounds like the TPS got wet. It'll probably take care of itself. Or maybe not. Let it run for a while and warm up, it'll dry everything out.

You don't specifically need a cage... Just to reinforce enough other things to make up for it.

Cool. I'll probably order them unless anybody else has a better idea. And Pete, my headlight wiring is messed up. Somebody added daytime running lights without using any factory parts or an aftermarket module (I'm still not entirely sure how they did that, I didn't unravel it all) and as a result I think I'll have to pull a few wires before things are peachy anyways.

How long have you had the autopals?

I'll admit I know nothing. Well, close to it. I never cared enough to learn about lights. But I know stock jeep lights suck. Anyways, I read a review on these http://www.rocky-road.com/xjipfH4.html They seemed pretty positive. $120ish is cheap. I'd just go with the housings and the 55/60W bulbs. Nothing crazy. I think. But thoughts, opinons, etc?

That information is all wrong for a renix, near as I know. There is a few issues. You have to grind a bit of the bracket for the A/C for clearance. And one of the bolt heads will rub on the belt unless you grind it down or find some sort of clearanced-head bolt (which I have not found, it is metric, so no luck.) Also, the lower rad hose can interfere (it is on my XJ, I'll have to look into it). Anyways, here's a picture of the correct belt P/N Image Not Found If you use the one in the above thread, it will be too long and you won't be able to get it tight enough. Installed. Image Not Found You can see the bolt in the P/S bracket that it runs right over - it rubs that. I'm probably going to do some surgery in that area to change it to a standard bolt, and use a MS-series countersunk bolt. You can also see the A/C bracket grinding. Otherwise it works good, I've done it on two XJs and the MJ.

They'll be tied in to an extent. I have a plan, I'm just not sure how well it will come out. I actually think they're pretty solid as-is, the door pillars have a lot of material too them once you get them welded all over the place. But I don't trust that enough to leave them as-is. I've seen people who only tied them into the floor a little more than mine are now, and they seemed to work. But who knows how hard they are on things.