BrettM

so that's where it is...

the OME shocks for XJs will work on the front, for the rear you can probably find some by using the measured lengths

I used herculiner on the rocker area of my old XJ and the interior of my offroad MJ. I was very pleased for both applications. Prep is key.

yes

very clean, especially under the hood. there are definitely a few style things I don't care for (like the grille), but whatever. Is it really lowered 3 inches? What coils? What front shocks? Did you modify the bumpstops (mine have only 2" of compression stock)? How's the oil pan to axle clearance? I like the flareless look, did you weld up the holes or just use bondo?

sound normal. .

I just look at it as I have saved hundreds (maybe thousands) of dollars because of NAXJA, so paying a little to keep the site running is just a thank-you. Also, included in membership is UFWDA membership ($25 value) which helps keep trails open and fight for land-use issues.

did you try posting in the supprt section? NAXJA is a great place, just don't take everyone so seriously.

90 is still Renix, I always look at the throttlebody to confirm because it's distinctly different. The front driveshaft isn't a throw-away.

it's called a rally, but i don't see anything about racing... please tell me there's racing...

4.56 I got 20mpg with my 4.0/AW4/4.88s/33x12.50s the 5 speed has a little less overdrive, so 4.56 would be better. if there's any chance you'll go to 35s just get the 4.88s now.

I trimmed the front so there is just the one crease around the fender the rear.... I cut a little more off....

Run the lines straight from the MC with a Wilwood prop. valve and throw a line-lock in while you're at it.

Yes, I have this attached to my floor shifter and 2 of these next to it I haven't mounted the LEDs yet because I'm going to be changing some stuff on my dash, but once I get those mounted I will take some pictures of all of it.

I like your thinking, and if I found the 97+ stuff and Moab rims cheap I definitely would.

you didn't happen to put the tires/wheels on before lifting it and take some pics?

dakota line here. worked great even at 7-8"

nope, the black one you posted is a toyota

search the Toyota boards especially Pirate, you will find tons of good ideas. i have nearly 100 pictures of flat beds and tube beds that I saved before doing mine. email me if you want a zipped copy of that folder brett@AWshifting.com mine

My MJ is missing the interior lights at the top of the B-pillar, has anyone found a better replacement? LEDs maybe? any other cool things to do with that spot?

yep, 30 amp relays are very common and sufficient for a fan. you can get them at radio shack for about $5, or much cheaper online.

I would definitely go with the TnT arms over the RE longarms. I bent design of the arm on the TnT is a little better, but the attachment method and design of the crossmember on the TnT is miles ahead of the RE.

Any way you could sneak a camera in there? Any idea how the doors are? I'm in Lansing, but if they're worth the trip...

he rules out square and rectangular tubing from the start, a big mistake IMO. when the direction of impact is predictable, as it is with a lower link, you can have a much stronger (pound for pound) link using square or rectangular tubing. And convienently it's pretty cheap too.