Blue88Comanche

Got something in the mail today!

I forgot to take pictures... But the swap was super simple

I think the factory grille guards attached directly to the bumper it self and not the frame, but i could be wrong..

mine attaches to the frame at the bumper bracket locations, there are braces on both sides of the bumper mount on the frame and the front cross member.. you can sorta see them in this picture the WARN part numbers are Grille guard center 60766 Brush Guards 39563 light bar 73745 Winch carrier 29394 2 inch receiver 29397 I think i bought all my stuff from 4wheelparts.com, Grille guard center Brush guards Winch carrier if the links don't work search for the warn part number and it will bring it up

another non factory option (but looks similar) would be a warn trans4mer grille guard the brush guards are optional, and the winch carrier is also optional. there is also a 2 inch receiver, and light bar, option

I was in 5th @ 45, 70, 75 however When on the interstate I shifted out of 4th @ 2500 - 2800 rpm

I currently have a renix I-6, AX-15, NP-242, 3.55 gears, 31x10.5r15 tires. I drove it on the interstate for the first time in a while, I was having issues getting to 70, and I could not get past 70 mph. My RPM was about 2300-2500. The jeep was in full time 4wd. On my way home from work I switched it to 2wd. I was able to get to 75 mph at 2500 rpm. There was also a constant vibe at 60mph and up. According to http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html My engine rpm should be about Also while driving at 45 mph my rpm is 1500 in both full time and 2wd. My speedometer is correct for 3.55 gears with 31 inch tires. I don't know much about what the running rpm should be but having conflicting data with that chart and not being able to pass 70 mph has me slightly concerned

Hitler kept a life-size portrait of Henry Ford next to his desk, claiming it was for inspiration. Henry Ford was also awarded the Grand Cross of the German Eagle in 1938.

I swapped out the old D30 shafts yesterday, I was trying to fix a clanking sound thought to be caused by the u-joints on the shafts, they turned out to be fine. Replaced them with CV style joints, I love how these new joints drive in full time! My D44 Aussie locker comes in tomorrow can't wait to get it

I am replacing the LCAs next weekend, if it is the control arm is going out would there only be 1 clank or would it continue like dragging a wrench down a metal fence?

I replaced the axle shafts today with CV shafts and I still have a clanking sound during turns (mostly just right turns) could the hub bearing be on the way out, or would it be the spider gears? I will pull off the diff cover to check the gears next weekend when I can afford the oil... Also I seem to have damaged the seals in the axle shafts, how does one replace them? Thanks

To remove the ABS ring I suggest getting a puller it made it so much easier than using just a hammer After the puller was set up I put the hammer through the center of the puller for leverage and use my tire wrench on the puller it self, a few turns later it came off

The steering should work, and I think there where a few members who added cruse to their MJs.

finally was able to use my winch on something other than a small log.

Ordered an Aussie locker for the D44 today!

Ordered new Dana 30 C/V axle shafts yesterday, and should be able to install them Sunday if the weather clears up. more info here

thanks for the info, that will save a lot of time and hassle! :cheers:

I ordered my axle shafts yesterday, they should arrive saturday, and on sunday i will install them if the weather allows. here is what i ordered hopefully, it is correct and will work without much hassle. this will be my first time installing axle shafts, so this outta be fun. 1996 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 5.2L V8 663221 (66-3221) CV Half Shaft Assembly $ 43.79 663220 (66-3220) CV Half Shaft Assembly $ 43.99 shipping $ 35.64 discount $ -4.39 total $119.03

last weekend dad and I replaced the front grill and headlight trim with chrome trim on dads MJ, it looks much better. We also replaced a fuel injector that was leaking. I replaced the windshield wiper motor on my MJ along with the intermittent control box. Its nice to have working wipers again! this weekend i will be ordering some C/V style axle shafts for my D30, and hopefully that will the the end of the clanking sound on right turns lol. Its been raining a lot the past couple days and I have been driving my MJ in full time 4wd. I have noticed i haven't spun the tires in the same spots as when i was in 2wd during the rain (up hill at a stop sign), normally in 2wd there is a little slipage but full time seems to put a stop to that. I am lovin my 242 now!

I think I bought my grille guard from 4wheelparts.com It's a Warn Trans4mer Grille guard center, with brush guards, and winch carrier add ons I have pics on my build thread

Cool, I did notice when I make sharp turns in my mj I can tell the ujoints are there where as in dads KJ limited it was nice and smooth in sharp turns. I will be using the mj on the street 95% of the time and I don't foresee and big off road trips.. When dad gets back home in a month I guess we will swap the shafts to the C/V style. Thanks for the input

I was looking for new axle shafts on rockauto.com for my dana 30 non cad axle. They had the normal shafts with u-joints and shafts with C/V joints. I know the joints are physically different, and the ultimate function it to turn the wheels, but what is the difference? How do they compare for street driving?

Replaced the windshield wiper motor and the magic little box for the intermittent setting. I can now drive safely in the rain again!

This might be a stupid question, but what happens if you don't use the friction modifier for the limited slip?

nothing was wrong with it, just needed matching gears. Last year I took Dads D44 (3.55 gears) and swapped it with my D35 (3.07 gears). It was cheaper to replace the front axle than to re-gear it. The old D30 (also 3.07) will be put on to dads MJ this weekend hopefully.