Harley

Not without removing the visor. Ya can drill it pretty much anywhere as long as its hidden under it and doesn't pinch the wires and just silicone the hole so it doesn't leak.

Cool, thanks for the info. what are ya runnin for rears?

I like the 747 lighting idea myself......just sayin

Anybody know the sizes offhand or what the limit is?

Easiest way IMO is I've drilled a hole in the pillar and rand the wires to the headlight switch and tapped them into the parking light wires....unless somebody out there has a better idea

Got it workin.....all it took was 3 masters, 2 slaves and an assload of wasted brake fluid trying to bleed the system.

I bled it that way when I first installed each slave.

Well thats enough to piss ya off and make ya want to start drinkin... Glad I'm not the only one with horse sh@t luck. Still havent figured out my clutch issue. Maybe we should have a beer and forget about both of em! :cheers:

Yeah flint, that all pretty much sums it up. The only thing I haven't ruled out is internal but I find that really hard to believe since it worked just fine. I drove the truck almost 30 miles round trip to get the first master. I don't know if this tells anything or not but I can reach the arm from where the slave mounts and there's about an inch of play back and forth. It seems I've stumped everybody with this so I guess the next step is to drop the trans and get a clutch kit. I'm REALLY confused by all this and am about ready to drag it out to the desert and blow it up!

Its an external slave, fluid flows just fine when I open the bleeder, when i remove the slave but leave the line connected I can push the rod in by hand and it comes back out on its own. everything was working just fine before I decided to do this so there shouldn't be any reason the internal components are messed up just from sitting. UPDATE: Anybody wanna buy a comanche? Rust free, $20/obo.....Thats how pissed off i'm getting at it. :mad:

Anybody???

I replaced the master and slave twice while trying to bleed it out. finally got it bled and have pressure in the pedal but now it will not release the clutch to go into gear. The pedal feels like something is jammed up like there's too much pressure in the system. Oh, and yes the push rod IS where it needs to be on the arm. Everything was fine before I started all this. Had the typical master leak and was just going to replace it but everything has put up a fight since the beginning.......Any ideas???

Guess I didnt look close enough for a bolt. Dealing with the clutch issue the past few days has my brain fried. I know what your talkin about though. Thanks for the info.

Can anybody tell me how exactly the fuse block unplugs from the harness? I don't want to risk breaking the plugs by prying too much on it.

Ahh, ya got the dreaded internal slave, that sucks. Don't hold me to this but the only thing I might see happening is fluid getting on the clutch and cause it to slip if the leak is bad enough. Not sure though. I'm sure somebody will jump in and correct me if that's not right.

Not sure what it will do in the long run but a slave is $20 through autozone, oreillys, etc...

To hell with 4.0, go with 5.7. Go big or go home lol

Does anybody know if I can get away with cutting off one of the mounting bolts one the firewall for the heater core and reinstall it with a regular nut and bolt? Went to remove them and one bolt just turns with the nut. I don't see any other way of getting to the heater core without cutting.

Correction, each state also is different with how dark the rear can be. here in NV and some others theres no restriction.

I never heard of it being illegal for side tint, not sayin your wrong just never heard that before. i've browsed the different state laws and from what ive seen you can go as dark as you want for the rear including rear doors on a 4dr and each state is different for the front doors and windshield as far as how dark they can be. http://www.tintlaws.com/

my 2.5 has the serpentine. As far as I can tell its always been that way

It is aluminum. It wouldn't hold up to anything and besides it would look like hell. Best bet is to have it re-chromed and save yourself the hassle.

Got mine done for $80 with a 5 year warranty through a glass company 5% all around. but here in Vegas tint is a big thing so i'm sure its more expensive else ware.

I got rid of mine the other day and didn't need longer lines and also didn't lose hardly any coolant.