lostissues

cool, just ordered one for me. Thanks! Jonathan

I'm sure people have thought of it but what would be involved in swapping the black fabric of a 4 door seat onto the frames of a 2 door Cherokee or MJ bucket seats? I would assume the only difference would be the hole for the lever to move them forward and the hole where the hook is in the bottom of back of the seat. just a thought. Jonathan

ohh, I like half moons, I can use those for my crafts... umm never mind. :oops: the first thing I'm looking to do with it is to help trim fenders, in my case I don't need a straight clean cut so this sounds like it will work for my. after I use it for that it will be used to enlarge holes in rear trunk decks or door skins so again it seams like it will do what I need it to do. thank you for the input. also, what brand did you pick up? also if anyone has anything else to say I would be very thankful. Jonathan

I'm thinking about getting an air nibbler so I can do some nice trimming whenever I need to. I figure it will be a little neater then the angle grinder cuts I have been making and I can also use it at my work when I'm done with the trimming. so has anyone used these tools? do they work well? pros, cons? Places to buy from (online or local to southern New Hampshire)? brands? so far i have seen Campbell Hausfeld, Jet, Sunex, I also know that there are others like craftsman, Ingersoll Rand and many others but the first 3 are all under $100 (kinda my budget but if it really comes down to "buy THIS one" then I may be will in to spend a little more.) Thanks for your help, Jonathan

OK, went to the local JY and had a look around, they had a 98 Cherokee but someone had already taken the engine and whole front end :headpop: I did pick up the wiring harness though. They also had a newer Cherokee in a fenced off area. I could just see the side markers on it and they were taunting me so i asked them about it. they said no one is allowed in there (still don't know exactly why, my guess is they are nicer vehicles then the ones in the main yard and they don't want people going "oooh i want that...smash...crack...kick..." and ruining the rest of the vehicle) but I asked how much if they removed it for me and they said 300 bucks, and the kicker is that he said if the one in the main yard had been there... 60 bucks??? what is so green about the grass on the other side of THAT fence? so here is my question, if I were to buy the parts separately what hardware do you need to attach everything together? is it the same bolts that holds on the older header panel? where would one suggest getting these bolts? do they sell a front end fastener set at the dealership? (I wish). I'm pretty sure I could just reuse the old bolts and such but there is such a mismatch of hardware holding on the old stuff, I'm not sure what was supposed to go where. Thank you, Jonathan

Thank you, I'm really not sure exactly how much lift is in there, I bought it with it already installed. the tires are I believe BF Goodrich Mud terrains. Jonathan

Anyone use Certifit.com? are they a good company? had anyone had any fit problems with the 97+ parts? Thanks, Jonathan

I did a search and looked through all 35 pages, got most of the info I needed. In my case I'm looking to get 8 parts (listed in pic below) and I think this should be all I need. I'm going to run the old fenders for now, if I don't like the way it looks or if I just feel like it I will replace the fenders with the new style ones. Question 1: While searching I read about a center support, but that is the only time I heard about it. is there one? is it needed? Question 2: also read about changing the fender bracket (http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10459&highlight=front+end) is this needed if I'm not swapping the fenders? Question 3: where have you found to be the best place to buy the parts? the JYs around here are not that great and I have yet to locate a usable 97+ front clip. this is where I have researched and i was just wondering if anyone had found any better priced places? Prices do not include shipping And where would I go about getting a headlight wiring harness for a 97+? I know I can use my old one but its a little ratty and I had to repair some wires and I would rather wire it starting with a clean slate, Hopefully I can find on at a JY so I can cut before the plug and use that so I can unplug if I ever need to. Thanks, Jonathan

OK, got a little something done today, here it is: half assed pulled the fender back out to where it is supposed to be (thats why it looks all crappy and dented) and then put on some rear TJ flairs. all in all I like the look and it opened up the wheel well a little. here are some more pics: I have another set of rear flairs off a TJ that you can see in the last pic, I plan on using those on the rears. taking off the front header was a little bit of a pain and its all cracked up and busted, so I'm thinking i may have to upgrade to the 97+ front clip. for those of you that have done it what was the final bill (just the header no fenders)? and where did you get the parts from? Jonathan

usually when i do a radio in an older Cherokee or Comanche you can either trip out the opening to make the radio can fit, like they did in your case. but they you do get the problem of having to take out the radio whenever you need to take out the dash. the best way to do it is to use the factory brackets like in Hornbrod pic. you will probably have to drill new holes in the side of the mount to get it to sit correctly. just before you take off the bracket look at how far back it sits on the factory radio and try to line it up with where the aftermarket radio starts (make sure if it has a removable face plate that you take that off, the face plate should stick through the opening in the dash) and if it doesn't have a removable face plate try to line it up and imagine it didn't have a faceplate. kinda confusing but if you have an questions feel free to ask. the main thing is that the factory radio face is more or less flat and most aftermarket are designed where the face plate "bumps" out a little. hope this helps ya out, I went to the junk yard and had to grab a mounting piece, and it was hard to find one cause people usually just cut the hole bigger and jam the can in when installing new radios. Jonathan

well not much to update here, I'm very, very, very slow at getting anything done. recently I have fixed my sticky throttle by adding a spring to help return the throttle back to idle. also a little while ago I ended up getting a new battery for my car because it had a warranty on it and it ended up leaking acid into the top of the case and created a path from the negative terminal to the positive terminal and that ended up draining my battery after a day of sitting. but instead of using that battery I opted (he he) to buy an optima yellow top for my car instead. so I planned on throwing the new battery i had into my MJ well the terminals are reversed and I couldn't get it to fit without pulling on the cables so i said what better time to replace the battery cables. so i did that: Made them out of 4 gauge car audio amp power wire I also made another on from the alternator to the power junction point right near the battery. I put battery terminals i had kicking around on the end (pic is kinda dark): And then I pulled out all the old cables and reattached the new ones and it was pretty easy. then i threw in the battery and it started right up. time to close the hood... crap I knew that battery looked a little taller then the other, luckily the connectors had a cover over them. so now I'm going to go and get the correct size battery. OK so since I'm always thinking about the future like how i have had a radio, rear speakers and 2 sets of front speakers (one for half doors I kinda have started) for a few years now. well here is something else that i plan on throwing in my truck when its all set. can anyone think of what i might use these for? (hopefully you can see it enough to make out what they are)

I just replaced my cables also, I used 4 gauge car audio wire. I have to make one more to go from the alternator to the distribution point near the battery. here what mine looked like: Little dark sorry. Jonathan

ohhhhhh... I hadn't thought of that... Thats a fantastic idea. What would I do about hinges though? *edited out pics I think he means pre 97 hinges VS post 97. it would be hard to make something to swap back and forth easily. although i have no idea how the newer ones bolt to the door itself, maybe its just unbolt newer, bolt on older. but that would be to easy. Jonathan

OK, for your power wire you going to want to find a grommet in the fire wall, you want to carefully get the wire through with without damaging any factor wires that run through it. don't just pull the grommet and push the wire through the hole cause then it will leak. if you cannot find a grommet or cannot get through it then drill a hole and be careful about where it places, don't put a hole into your booster or something fun like that. after you make a hole be sure to put a grommet through the hole so the power wire isn't rubbing on the sharp sides. just make sure that you never run your wire through the door, i would hate to see someone burn down their truck. and the most important thing BE SURE TO FUSE THE WIRE CLOSE TO THE BATTERY sorry for the caps and bold but its that important. what is the brand model of the sub? cause 500w is a pretty good amount of power if that is a true rating. companies (Sony) like to put the max ratings on everything they put out there so you want to get a true RMS rating to figure out how much power it will need and what size wire and fuse you need. if its a self amplified sub like a bazooka bass tube or infinity basslinq you should be fine running a 12 gauge power wire kit to it. hope this will help you get started Jonathan

I'm assuming that that is a long bed turned short bed, not short bed to shorter bed. do you happen to have any more pics of the bed bob process? if not might you be able to take some pics of the back? do you ever have a problem with the shackles hitting on anything? i would like to do this to my long bed when i get it up and running. thanks, and sweet rig. Jonathan

go to the site listed above and they have some videos of the races. its mainly a run around an oval track with some jumps along the way. see who can do it the fasteset.

It says that PEAK is 1400 watts, RMS is 50-350 so you could power it with a 700 watt amp. it is a 4 ohm sub and you have two so you could wire it down to 2 ohm so a 700 watt amp that is made for 2 ohm should do you fine. correct me if I'm wrong. Jonathan

could someone make a how to on removing the bed? I know that there have been x number of threads about it but they all link to older threads and the pics on them are no longer working or are not the most descriptive. Thanks a whole bunch, Jonathan

out of curiosity, where did you go about getting those shelves, they are quite spiffy. Jonathan

"Go Team Venture!" I love that show

Crap there from New Hamphsire :oops: it looks like it dropped in a little ways out and they had to drag it out through water under the ice and the video is the final extraction maybe? Jonathan

Circuit City is not commission based any more, haven't been for like 5 years now, not that I would know though :brows: Jonathan Thanks for correcting me, I knew a guy whom worked there, about 6 years ago, and one of the reasons he left the place. So, I read between the lines there, how you like working at Circuit City ;) No problem. I don't have a sales person job, I install car audio and remote starts and stuff like that so its not relay the typical retail job (but it does come with a lot more stress). but all in all its not bad, aside from the stupid management and idiot customers but. as for your computer dilemma i usually order my stuff online like from newegg or mwave they are pretty good. Jonathan

Circuit City is not commission based any more, haven't been for like 5 years now, not that I would know though :brows: Jonathan

I think by CC he means Credit Card, not Comanche Club.

ah ha, the red ring of death this happened to me, I got a launch console and luckly it happened within the 90 day warrenty, contacted microsoft and had to send out my box (they sent me a lable) and then they sent me a new one, i had it happen with the new one but it fixed its self, don't know why but it works so I won't question it. I think if you contact microsoft they will help you out, they said they would fix it free of charge if it was manufactured before XXXX date (not sure of when) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xbox_360_t ... l_problems "On July 5, 2007, the Vice-President of Microsoft's Interactive Entertainment Business division published an open letter recognizing the problem and announcing a 3 years warranty expansion for every Xbox 360 console that experiences the general hardware failure indicated by the three flashing red lights on the console." Hope you can get if all fixed up, Jonathan