91coMANche

If you replaced the correct part as the resistor it should have looked like something Doc from Back to the Future had on his DeLorean Time Machine.

Resistor isn't under the hood it is by the passengers right foot. Did you just replace a fuse/relay?

Will I be able to sleeve the line in 1/8" vacuum line?

I may be able to pick up that exact radio so thats why I am wondering if you could point out which two posts you soldered to.

Thanks man! If I can't get this one running I'll have to take you up on that offer!

Ahh so that closes the valve in the summer I suppose. I guess I'll just wait until the summer to fix that line if I even fix it. It doesn't look replaceable unless I pull the dash or something like that because it is fed through the firewall. The line is sooo fine that I don't even think I could sleeve it with anything.

While doing my engine swap, the vacuum line that goes from behind the firewall to the heater valve broke. What does that line do? I assume shut off hot water to the core? Well the heat works just fine at the moment. What can I do to fix that situation? Can I sleeve the line in rubber hose up to the valve? I have some hardline coming out of the firewall and some coming off the valve but there is a break in the middle.

I'm facing the same exact situation. I suspect it is the radio itself. Mine even does the flicker with turn signals. I got my eye on a couple low miles vehicles with factory radios. The yard is pricey but if it works its better than installing one of those horrid aftermarket options. Let me know if you can't find a radio and I can try and grab you one at the yard.

So if I understand you correctly, you soldered the 3.5mm jack to the wires attached to those two silver posts that are to the right of the volume knob?

Ok sounds good. Got it apart to clean and fiddle but I also know where there is a good one in the junkyard too.

What is wrong with my factory AM/FM radio. I want to keep the original Jeep AM/FM radio in the truck. Right now it will only play some speakers and then a pothole will bring in other speakers and it makes driving with radio horrible. If I push on the faceplate it will bring in all speakers. I cleaned and reattached the back harness to no fix. What else could it be?

For the archives: the hvac control unit bulb is a 74. The connector twists in.

Oh awesome so its a part that can be found in parts stores! It looks so little I thought I would only be able to get it online through a specialty bulb place. Thanks!

Obviously unplug the battery and remove the coil wire. Pull plug 1. Turn engine over by hand with your finger in the spark plug hole. You will fell it when you hit compression stroke on 1. Then line up the pointer on the harmonic balancer on 0. Now, take a look under your cap and see where your rotor is currently sitting. It should be pointing in the general area of 7 o'clock. I suspect you're 180 degrees off. If you're off then follow the instructions I previously posted here.

This could be your problem. So you set the pulley at 0 but did you set it at top dead center compression or exhaust stroke on 1?

Anyone have a part number on the HVAC control light bulb? I cannot stand trying to figure out my HVAC in the dark anymore. I can see the bulb and its a tiny little peanut but I cannot find a part number.

+1 I feel the chill in the room too but I don't know who you're even speaking with!? Did anyone mention there being a difference between the 4wd and 2wd motors?

mkbruin - is the sharp "cutoff" on the lights annoying? I drove a Jaguar X-type that had the sharp cutoff and it was not only stupid but also annoying. I don't see why one wouldn't want light going up high.

I know you don't want to hear this but...just fix it. Fix it now. Don't wait. Nobody on a forum can give the accurate advice you want. What I CAN tell you is that it needs to be fixed and should be fixed now. Cutting it out and remaking that from thicker steel won't be difficult for someone with some knowhow.

Well you guys sold me on 97+ mirrors. I just bought two reproduction manual mirrors to install. The real question is whether I have to install the interior adjusters or just adjust them from the outside. Would manual interior adjusters from a 91-96 work on 97+ manual mirrors?

Coil is still good I assume? Fuel pump relay is plugged in? Have pressure to the rail? When you installed the distributor did you time it by putting cylinder 1 at top dead center on compression stroke and then putting the oil pump drive at 11 o'clock and then dropping the distributor in there with the rotor pointed at cylinder 1 "fire" position? You would have to put it in 30 thousands retarded of cylinder 1 "fire" because of the shape of the gears and then it would fall into the proper position. You can be a little off on distributor timing to have it run but not too far off. Check to see if your distributor is timed correctly before proceeding. If you set it at top dead center cylinder 1 exhaust stroke you wouldn't have a running engine.

Its really nice stuff but it cannot be painted over anything but clean bare metal. If you want to coat your bed then you need to first wirewheel it down to metal. Once you put it on the metal is damn well protected.

I am not in the business but I am also in the market. Lots of people I know have service or storage or both lifts. There seems to be one theme: you get what you pay for. Let you nephew know that its worth the additional couple hundred bucks or whatever it is to buy an American unit instead of the imported ones. There are massive differences like double shear pulleys and full welds not to mention what you cannot see, which is the strength of the steel used in China versus the US.

Does this stalk look right? http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/ ... /1134.html

So its all plug and play under the dash and then I rebuild the column with the delay stalk. Correct? How tough is it to pull out the column? I assume XJ parts work just as well as MJ?