hgeranium

Nevermind. Super cool!

Nice! In lieu of looking through your entire thread, do you have a system sentry installed?

I missed this! Please give us the details. I'm very glad that it's back in safe hands

Maybe something similar to this that has the same diameter as the hose grommet?

I wonder how imperative it is that the front CCV hose is the size that it is. Once my new PCV hose comes in, I'll have an extra brand new grommet that comes with the hose (I replaced the grommet w/out the hose on thanksgiving) I'm wondering if I could stick that grommet in the CCV hole and get a small enough vac line stick in the grommet and route it to a catch can in the meantime. It would at least fix that bad seal in the VC until I get the motivation to buy/waste an entire vac harness save for one hose. But like I said, I have no idea if that would cause too much vent restriction/pressure.

Great rig! Looks like the old timer took great care of it.

Yep the temp dropped to the mid 30s from the 70s-80s in a few days here. I'm glad it was nothing more serious. I've never seen anything like that. Since I don't want to create another thread for this one question: Do you have any recommendations for replacing the CCV hose without having to buy an entire front vacuum harness? I have an HO air box and EGR delete so I only have PCV, FPR, and MAP vacuum. The CCV hose just goes straight from the VC to the air box. The hose is so old and worn out. The grommet barely stays in place and gets plenty of oil leaks from it. I realize I may not have an option but to spend the ~$25 for the harness just so I can get that hose. Surely it would last the rest of the life of the truck so it may be a worthwhile investment. I just thought I'd ask if there were any alternative options.

Interestingly, the original dealership seems to be a Vinfast electric car dealer. I've never even heard of that brand until now. "VinFast is a Vietnamese electric vehicle (EV) manufacturer, part of the conglomerate Vingroup, that produces cars, e-bikes, and other mobility products"

Doing a bit of research makes me think that liquid is probably just condensation mixed with oil/whatever else is in the crankcase. I replaced the grommet but not the hose itself. It's still got a decent amount of play and is real easy to take out. Maybe I need to replace that hose to be sure. I suppose the PCV area leaking plus the badly sealed VCG could be the culprit. I'm still curious about what y'all think. It sounds like it has to be an issue with poor crankcase ventilation or excessive pressure.

Hello everybody! Those with keen eyes and memory will remember that, during a road trip, I had an issue with some major oil blow by on the back and passenger side of the engine bay plus a bogging issue that turned out to be the fuel pump. Fuel pump solved one of the problems but I am still noticing some pretty concerning blow by all over the back and passenger side of the engine. I originally thought the PCV grommet had something to do with it. I replaced it and this is what it looks like now: There’s a nice fresh layer of oil on top of it, around it, and on the hose. There’s no blockages between this grommet to the fitting on the intake. there is this oily film all around the back of the valve cover that wasn’t there until recently. It’s fresh. This is a bit further down the valve cover but you can still see all the fresh oil. This is the driver side. Bone dry. Oil level is fine. Color looks OK, smells ok, tastes ok. this is directly behind the valve cover on the firewall. It may be hard to see but there is a fresh film of oil here too. until I do cruisers valve cover fix, I temporarily have the CCV breather hose going to a water bottle and plug in the port on the air box to stop oil on my air filter. Usually there’s nothing in there but since I started having these problems I noticed that there is a strange clear yellow liquid that has come from it. Its viscosity is like water. It’s got a very strange smell to it but from what I can tell it’s not gasoline(?) I think after last weekend I would know what gasoline smells like. I tasted it and it is unlike any automotive fluid I’ve ever tasted. It didn’t taste bitter or sweet, but it was pure tanginess. Like a real strong buffalo sauce almost? I know everyone’s going to tell me to do the valve cover gasket, and I have one that I plan to install soon but I’m pretty sure a bad valve cover gasket isn’t going to cause all the oil in some of these places (namely the PCV grommet, since the oil sits neatly on top of it) nor explains this yellow liquid coming from the CCV hose which is what I’m most worried about. Not pictured but there are plenty of things like the coolant bottle and evap canister have dried oil spray on them, so wherever the oil is coming from, it has some pressure to get all the way over there. Any ideas? It drives great but I’m getting paranoid about it now, especially because the oil smell when driving is so much stronger than it ever was

Mine was the same way. It idled great and only had driving issues when it warmed up. A bad pump will worsen with heat. Were you getting the correct aforementioned PSI? I was only 3PSI off at idle so God knows how low I was when it warmed up.

That's a great picture! I wonder how it'll work to get that rod back into place. Hopefully it's still in the column somewhere and the mechanic didn't throw it out. I would probably need to hit up a junkyard for a replacement if so. Do you know how much I would need to disassemble in the column to get to this point?

Have you checked fuel pressure before you replaced the pump? I recently started having a very similar issue and it turned out to be a bad fuel pump where the PO didn't put a strainer on. My fuel pressure at the rail was a few PSI low beforehand, and was exactly at 31psi at idle and 39psi with the FPR vac line removed.

Years ago I had the Jeep at a shop where the mechanic replaced the turn signal switch. Afterwards I found, which I did not notice for months because I hadn't needed to use them in that time, that my brights no longer worked. Pulling the stalk towards me no longer clicks. It just moves back and forth loosely. Turn signals still work just fine. I know I need to take a good amount of the steering column apart to fix this but I wanted to know what to look for as far as the turn signal stalk and the switch for the high beams. I would guess there's a singular thing that got put out of place or neglected to be put into place so the stalk is not attached to whatever actuates the high beams.

Bump. Still interested in the build sheet for this mystery comanche.

How was your mileage in terms of hardware? I had trouble finding suitable replacement hardware and I see most people just reuse what they have. Mine don’t look awful but the heads are starting to become a bit rounded. A couple of them I need to go up to 15mm instead of 14.

How was it getting the manifold off? I've heard you can take it off for the gasket without removing the heat shield/messing with the fuel rail but I was curious what I would be in for. Maybe doing the extra work would be worth it to have an easier time pulling the manifold off.

The earlier generation Nissan Armadas also had these.

That’s so unfortunate. I love that clock. I guess I should be grateful it even shows a time but it makes me sad. Is there a person or group that rebuilds them? It’s sad knowing that if I were to buy a replacement, it’s just as prone to a failure as any other. It would be a good opportunity to find a clock panel REM though

On the way to work today I noticed my clock was frozen at 1:00 and wasn’t blinking. I think a blown fuse would cause the clock to not power at all, so I’m worried something more serious happened. The buttons that change the time do nothing. My only clue is that, when replacing my fuel pump, I ended up taking off and putting on the negative battery terminal a few times.

Hello! I assume because it’s a brand new account? Mods need to verify it I believe. I suppose you could shoot your question here or just make a post on any of my threads.

Getting the filter attached to the pump with a deep socket and extension is much smarter and simpler than whatever I was imagining. Thanks!

I think my truck has this. Are you talking about, with the HVAC set to OFF, there will still be air coming out of the vents (especially moving highway speed)? I can even control the temperature of the vent air with the slider even with the fan not blowing/set to vent.

Yep, not greasing the O ring is probably where my issue lies. I put some fresh gas in it so it wasn't dry but I was naive to think that it wouldn't have problems setting without actual grease.

This job also seemed quite advanced and daunting for my skill level so I'm still happy with myself that I was able to get as much done as I did. I'm pretty good at removing and disassembling/reassembling the fuel pump assembly after doing it so much. Just gotta practice getting lock rings on I suppose lol. Again, this is my first fuel pump EVER, so everything I was doing was brand new. My muffler and driveshaft being right in front of the mounting hole did not make it easier on me. I was having to wrap my arms around my muffler for a sweet embrace to get my hands in the right position to pull the things out and brass punch the lock ring on/off. Just a product of my stubbornness. I want to take the truck to a shop as seldom as possible, so only having to take it in for 1-2 parts right at the end of the job is pretty decent for me. I'll never be the type to give up and take it to a shop before I even try. The only way I'll learn is to actually attempt it. The truck still is very drivable, you just can't fill it up past half a tank, which was too risky for me to take it on a road trip back home. But that new pump is awesome, it's startups are exceptionally smoother and power delivery is fantastic. I can't wait to get it back to full strength and check the fresh MPGs. Thank you @Eagle_SX4for the recommendation on the Bosch.