raviolli

i could....they are in fact pocket sized :brows: i have to get something every time i go since there's an entry fee of a dollar lol but the only emblems are 'comanche' and '4x4'. there was nothing on the tailgate and the header panel was already gone so no jeep emblem idk when ill go back again, ill try to remember if i do soon

not much salvageable here, but there is a bed and tailgate in decent shape. i have no idea what they would charge but to give you an idea, i paid $20 for a driver side window there and $100 for a header panel, grille, light bezels, and all lights (assembled). this is at cocoa auto salvage in cocoa, fl (central fl, east of orlando). motor is gone, it was the 4.0. i didnt check drivetrain, but it was 4x4. quite honestly i would only suggest checking it out for the bed or tailgate. cab corners maybe or rear slider. its been door-less for quite some time (i remember seeing it there at least 6 months ago) so the bench seat is shot. anyways, here's the pics

its been a while...ive done pretty much nothing except start 'er up here and there, but today i stopped at the boneyard on my way home from work and pulled a header panel, grille, both headlight bezels, and all of the side marker lights. paid $100 for all of it. pulled it off a cherokee of course. theres only ONE comanche at cocoa auto salvage and here's that beauty! the bed and tailgate seem to be in decent shape. not a whole lot of rust. taillights are no good, otherwise i would have picked em up. i didnt pull everything out of the bed and look closer though, as mine is in great condition but if anyones interested, this is at cocoa auto salvage in cocoa, fl. anywaysss....my progress-- my passenger fender is a lil bit smashed so the header-to-fender gap is wayyyyy off. it almost looks like the header is narrower than the jeep itself but I'm not worried about it. at least not anytime soon ..at least the front end resembles a vehicle now.. all i need to do before i throw away the old cracked header is swap over the headlights since they look newer. oh and the jeep emblem of course. this one came with (missing) plastic stick on letters. i had the metal ones :yes: oh and i had another nice find in this trip to the JY....I found a J20 on my way home and snapped a pic before we parted directions

thanks rob that thing is cleeeaaaannnn :bowdown: after clicking that link, it suddenly occured to me that ive searched before and have seen all of those lol. i think what i want to see most is a 3" lift/31's or 32's in comparison to a stock height MJ or a 6'2"ish person standing next to it -- anyone have these pics? also, like i said, we all like any size rigs...lets see more pics. everyone chime in, lets see what ya got!

hey all no tech questions here, i just want some pics :yes: I'm plannin on gettin a 3" lift and 31's or 32's on my '88 SWB. i need to get it registered and be able to drive it before i start doing work on my dd (just in case i find more damage when inspecting my differential). anyways i really need new tires so I'm gonna go ahead and do a small lift if I'm gonna spend money on tires. just really wantin to see pics of other MJs with the same amount of lift. ive seen pics of 2" budget boosts, and ive seen 4" lifts and higher. i can't seem to find very many with a 3" lift and i really love the way my blood flows when i see something like that in my near future but hey, as long as I'm askin, lets see ANY size lifts...all of us here love our jeeps and love to see other rigs so show us what ya got!

also, once you think youre pretty close in shape, you can use a guide coat...or just a quick mist of spray paint dark enough to see and go over it really quick in a higher grit to see if you missed any spots. if theres a high spot, youll see the bondo show up much quicker. if after sanding you see a spot of paint that hasnt even been touched, that tells you theres still a low spot.

hey guys the other day i noticed that my filler cap still leaks oil...especially if i pressed down on one side or the other. it would spit oil at the opposite side of where i was pressing. obviously i won't have my hand on the engine while driving, but it still leaks without touching it, especially at higher rpms. when i got my MJ, the cap was split right in half so i ordered one online. well ever since, i thought my pcv was leaking but a few days ago i had it running with the hood open and noticed it was the cap (my jeep sits in the driveway and i run it every few days to keep the juices flowing. hopefully it won't be this way for long, its just not registered yet). anyways, the cap is not very tight with just a quarter turn. i know the valve cover is aftermarket too (or at least not the original) so I'm wondering, is this how it was from the factory? just a quarter of a turn with the plastic cap to seal all the oil in the system? is there a way i can keep the mess contained?

not only that but i feel like there would be more bass if it was mounted in the factory location...maybe not MORE bass, but you would probably feel more being right at your a$$

when i first got my freebie 2.5l, one of the first things i did was clean up all that caked up oil and grime. i looked around online first and just simply took plastic bags and covered the carb, the fuse box, and some electrical connectors that looked semi-important. i didnt even seal them or wrap anything up, just put the bag over and covered the stuff. i used a generic degreaser from the auto part store and a regular garden hose. it worked great for the underside of the hood and anything else that was easy to get to. the bags didnt really hold up and eventually were useless but i didnt expect them to do much anyways. i had absolutely no problems starting it afterwards. only thing was, i did a half-@$$ job and missed the bottom half of the motor :shake:

i like the tires/lift size :drool:

i just finished up with my floor. i cut up a fender from my buddies car we flipped and used that. i should have measured the thickness of what the original floor was :wall: sorry, I'm no help but aside from the top of the frame rails (which would be a higher strength and thicker steel), the rest of the floor isnt all that thick. the fender i used worked great and seems as hardy as a factory floor if not stronger

lmao copied and pasted straight from wikipedia

that color would look pretty sick on an MJ gotta say though...thats a lot of $$$ on lights lol

definitely yay on the taillights. you know how many people on here alone are looking for a pair? I am one of 'em

get yourself some aircraft remover. its a chemical paint stripper. works pretty good but don't get it on ya... a pressure washer will get it pretty clean, but it will only take the loose, chipping paint off but if you want to remove all of the paint quickly and effectively, the chemical stripper is definitely the way to go

:agree: as did i. i think it was like twelve bucks

youre not crazy...happens to me all the time too. and for the past couple months, every time i got to this site, the forum button just didnt show up so i couldnt get in :dunno:

sorry for the :hijack: ...but rough country has a 3" kit with coil springs, AAL, and shocks all the way around. how bad would it be to run that without the rest of the stuff youve listed?

better pics will definitely help, but i can't see any kinks. usually the bigger dents come out much easier because theyre spread out more and it tends to be more of a gradual bend in the metal rather than a sharp kink. it should knock out pretty easy but youll have to work with the body lines a lil bit

i saw someone on here had Tupperware containers mounted in the engine bay with the wires running through them and the connectors inside. they could put the lid on for waterproofing

aha! so i wasnt drunk! well....maybe i was, who knows lol :cheers: ...but i knew i saw 33s on either stock or 2" of lift nice build btw. i remember reading up on it a few weeks ago

lol hey as long as its not IMPOSSIBLE, its worth a shot, right? :brows:

the backspacing is far less than stock. i texted the guy and asked, but no response yet. but judging by the pics online, i would say its only a couple inches. theyre a really deep dish

maybe i was drunk but i swear ive seen someone on here on 33s with no lift. lots of trimming, and still rubbed, but still had them on. I'm taking my flares off and will trim but if its in the control arms, thats definitely a problem

i don't remember but there were a few. i think mostly mid 90s from dodge ram vans and trucks. i would check the local JYs. the ones near me always have a mini warehouse of complete motors on skids and thats how it looked in the pics online