Wildman

Rocky - while working on a XJ today, I notice the hand brake is a rod that goes to the equalizer, so why not just extend the rod and reuse the wheel cables???

The idea I came up with was to make a "mold" and press the double lip into the panel. I ran this thru someone else, and they though it would work. It just so happens that the new shop I'm moving into just happens to have an old hyd press sitting there- I know this would make a hell of a press for doing u-joints :brows: There is a 3 foot plate on the ram, and in the foreground is the hyd/elect unit. I have not fired it up yet, but everthing is connected, so one of these days...... I'm tied up with some other jobs now, so it will be a couple of months before I'm ready to try this idea out.

Yea, that's a good start, now what I can't figure out is how to do the double step flang for the wheel flairs??? I need to make about 4 pairs of the side panels, at the wheel wells, so after the day job slow down in December.......I'll be toying with this. And I agree, there are very few stright line on the box sides :mad:

Yea.....low milage is some times good, I had a '87 with 67K, total rot box, got cut up for parts, the u-joints on the D30 have 1 inch of play in them, has ever oil leak you can think of. Another '87 I have has 63K on it, and is in very rought shape, does not start, have not started working on that one yet. The '89 I drive now, I got that with 81K on it, and after going thru it, replacing ever seal, All axle bearings, u-joints, rebuild the cooling system, re-build the brake system, New clutch, corroded wires and about everything else, and over $1600 in parts, oh yea, a 20 year old truck with low milage that's been sitting, yea a real good deal :cry: I guest if someone took VERY good care of the 20 year old truck, and did maintenance on it, and replace the dry rotted seals, then it's a good deal, but expect to pay for all of that. Which your posting here. I have to deal with the rust up here, which eats the crap out of the trucks, but has nothing to do with the dry rot of the seals, or the poor maintenance done on the trucks from the PO. Even low milage, it's still a 20 year old truck :eek:

Rocky.....Don't you have your "friend's" '91 MJ listed for $4800??? John - Dealer, I would walk away from that, never see a good deal at a dealer, and never seen the justification of there mark-up from Auction to lot price. '88 LWB, 2WD for 4 thousand, little high. You watch the prices like the rest of us, and see what the prices are on e-bay, so what do you think?? I don't know if you watch this place, but just look at the diffrence in prices from the dealers to the private seller, http://jeep.autoextra.com/model/comanche And the AutoTrader.com has some of the highest prices all over :eek: So, you want it, you like it, then buy it. Pay the price and be done, OR, keep looking and find something closer, I've seen alot of MJ listed on e-bay right in TX. You just got to wait for them to come up, OR put a listing up under the "Want it Now".

When your remove the latches, you'll find some shims there, you might need to add / remove a shim or two to get the hood to latch, that could be your problem. Also check the alignment to the fenders and front header panel.

Well.......that answers some things.......Who knows what the guy thru in the box when he shipped it to you?????? :eek: I'll check in the shop latter today, I know I got one of each over there, but from taking apart a couple, I know the floor shifter is only couple feet long. I'm sure you know where the TV cable goes, that's mounted inside the AW4 and a real pain to pull out. But you need the bracket on top of the engine for hooking that up to the TB linkage. You could route the shifter cable thru the firewall and into the floor shifter to take up some of the extra slack too.

Steering column shift or Floor shift?? The floor shift cable is about 2 feet long. Right thru the tunnel to the shifter. The Steering column shift cable is about 5 feet long, runs thru the hole where the clutch master cyl would be, behind/under the dash, to the brake pedal support, and the inter cable attaches to the lower steering column, shifter rod.

You posted that you had problems with the smart switch (turn signal switch) and did you replace it or not??? IT sounds like you have a problem with the ground. Did you check the body to engine ground strap?? A MJ that I just parted out, the ground strap looked good, and when I touch it, it crumbled apart :eek: You should replace the ground wire, battery (-) to engine, get a 36" off the shelf cable, and clean the connection screw at the engine block. I would disconnect the rear harness first to get the problems up front found, then work you way into the back and take the complete harness out, take all of the crimp connectors off and use B-caps with die-electric grease, or solder each one. and of course, remount the ground wire behine the left tail light. You could have a bulb in 180 degrees wrong, and it's back feeding to your turn signals/tail lights. Or you could have a bad light socket. From what you write, it sounds like a bad ground up front. The one '89 I drive, every time I started it, the radio went to reset, I replaced the battery cables, and it solved the problem. Hope this all helps ;)

egghead - I'm following you, your looking for the complete fuel pump assembly, Correct?? http://www.partsamerica.com/product_ima ... e7091s.jpg Like that?? What all of the parts store are trying to sell you is the assembly for the XJ that is for a short (shallow) rear fuel tank for the XJ, like the picture. I have not found a source for the complete sending unit, I guest the only source would be a JY, unless another menber had one laying around. I just parted out a MJ, but I'm thinking of hanging on to the fuel tank and the sending unit for now, until I get some projects done. If you need just the steel line that the pump feeds, like it broke, or rotted off, I would repair it with a new steel line, I done one last year, and it works. I don't think you'll ever find just the steel line.

I though it was - "If you can read this, Flip me over" :D Sorry, couldn't resist :brows:

Yea, glad to hear that it was just a minor mistake and that it all worked out to be a easy problem to solve :D But don't beat your self up on this :wall: I think that's in one of the 3 Rules on this board ;) And your friends were right to drop in and ask what could be the problem, other wise you would still be trying to torch, ah....er, trying to fix the dang thing.

1986Comanche brings up a very good point on the old soft lines being deteriorated, I know I've had this problem of a Ford van, and just replaced all of the flex lines and solved some problems. I assume your hard lines are in good condition? If there is any rust, I would not trust them, and replace the steel lines also. The couple of MJ's that I've redone, I just tear out all of the steel lines and flex lines and replace every thing with new, the time involved is time saved messing with it latter. Note- all of the steel lines are 3/16". But on the other hand, I'm in the rust belt, and working on these 20 year old trucks, everything is just rotted out, so new lines are the norm. Any steel lines that you modify, just make sure you double flair and use the correct fittings, yes, I know other's have used compression fittings, but they are not kosher. Some people have had problems, but I done a '89 last year that is a driver for me, and I have no problems with this, I've had some panic stops, and the front lock up on me. And yes, it's better to have the fronts lock up and have some controll over a skid. You must have some Good Friends :D

First of all, yes, every thing you did, was worth it, with 260K, I would think your 2x past the rebuild time. The reason your rear brakes were not working, they were not adjusted properly, thru the "self adjusters" that need to be manualy adjusted. This should be checked ever 6 months, or when the braking power is lost. That's why you got 260K on the original brake shoes. After the self adjusters failed, the shoes were not making contact to the drum. This should have been notice on your parking brakes also. Did you pull a rear wheel, and check if the wheel cyl is leaking, or even working?? It a $12 part that worth changing out, and do both of them. I think you got some thing run wrong in the rear, You did the front proportioning valve correct, but then you only need one hard line to the rear, from the front port, direct to the soft line in the rear, I don't get it where you "reconnected to the T" If you deleted the rear porp valve, just let the line hang, as you disconnected it up front, and then remove the tee completly, and the one hard line should be connected directly to the soft line ( to the rear axle) If you have 2 hard lines connected in the rear, you could be sucking fluid back to the front porp valve when your trying to bleed the system, Or you have the wrong hard line hooked up to the front porp valve, front port. If you replaced the master cyl, did you bench bleed it first?? Or just install it, and hope to get the air out thru about 20 bleeds?? It could be air locked if you did not bench bleed it first. As I was typing this out, Eagle was posting :bowdown: And before I get yelled at, Yes, the front porp valve is the "Metering Valve/Block"

Cole - Congratulations to you and the Wife :jump:

:rotf: :jump: Now that's funny :rotfl2:

project88mj is looking for a D30 over in the Classifed's me think he went :hateputers:

GreenF350 - Welcome to the ComancheClub :waving: Sounds like a clean '91 with only 90K ;)

Never seen a plug like that, and you say there are only 3k miles on them. I have No idea what caused that :hmm:

Yea.....you can never have too many MJ's :D Both of them look good :thumbsup:

:rotfl2: So did you get any free hot dogs :D

thermal flicker thing = Flasher unit Did you replace them with regular grade, or heavy duty flasher?? If your turn signal indicators are not lighting up, that's telling you there is a problem / burned out bulb, front or back, that could be your problem with the wrong / incorrect install on the rear tail light. Thus the problem with no brake lights. Another thing you might want to check is the rear sockets them self's they can go bad and cause problems too. A Ford socket is a replacement for the rear lights. Your head light switch might be good for just the parking / headlight, but the resistor spring that controlls the dash lights and the dome's could be bad and shorting out.

Yes, thru the light switch, turn the knob, and the dash lights dim and get brighter, turn it all the way bright, and the dome lights turn on. It sounds like you got a bad light switch. I forgot to ask if you have turn signals working, that would narrow it down to the brake pedel switch.

Beachbum1236 - Welcome to the ComancheClub :waving: First, the dome lights are junk, most just replace them with aftermarket lights, but do take them apart and make sure the wires/bulbs are not shorting out causing your fuse to blow. Also check the door jamb switchs to make sure there not shorting out, there is only a little piece of plastic that seprate the 2 wires. At worst, it could be the head light switch shorting out. Brake lights, if you already changed the bulbs out, with 1157's or 2057's and there installed correctly, then check/replace the brake light switch on the pedel. Next check the rear connector, about 6" in from the bumper, drivers side, clean it and die-elect grease it. The rear harness has some crimp connectors in the line, pull the harness out and redo the crimps, they corrode, and replace them with some B-caps filled with die-elect grease. If you still have a problem, the rear harness starts from under the dash, under the drivers seat, thru the cab rear panel, and the wiring could be pinched/damaged, this harness also has the leads to the dome lights, consel light, seat belt, fuel pump and sending unit. While you got it all apart, re-do the rear body ground, behind the left tail light. And after all this, you will find the joy of working on a 20 year old Jeep :D

Here's another source that's a few $$ less. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... type,10321