Wildman

I sure do........ Know any one looking for a job???? And god know I have 3 XJ's :D The boat is not mine, it's my "old" helper's thats storing it there......"For Sale" while he's in Florida (Couldn't talk JT into taking it on his way down :fs1: ) Anybody want to buy a boat????? :D Oh, and you forgot the old cuber that being used for storage right now :D The forklift is for stacking the jeeps up, I'm running out of ground room :( And.......it's for unloading shipping units that are coming in under my new "Dealer/Installer" contract with a manufacture :banana: (and you wonder why I don't have 'extra' time on here anymore :( )

Rear Cherokee doors have a shorter regulator, they will not work on the front doors. I've pulled a couple, and compared, they will not work. The Cherokee front door regulators are the same as a Comanche door, and yes, you'll need either a right front door, or a left front door, they are handed. That tool is a adjustable spanner wrench, some parts stores carry them, and I think I've seen them at Harbor Fright. That just holds the back washer so you can loosen the nut on the glass pin, that mounts on the regular arm.

I think they are, That was about a year ago.......correct??? I hope that was the picture you were looking for :D

Did you say 'Pictures' :D Manual window regulator - And the glass washer/nut from the back side of the glass, with a spanner wrench - Which you need to remove the glass before you remove the regulator -

I'll be watch my e-mail for further info. :yes: Then I can complete the stripping down of that one red one, and still have a full dozen :D Mr. aemsee, I've got something new since your last visit - I figured if I start running out of room, I can start stacking the MJ's up :D

Yes, do check your cables........if they look anything like this.......replace them - From what your wrote, it sounds like the cable are not letting the voltage thru to the starter.

Pick up a tool like this one - http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... ml?Origin= Or like this - http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages ... _14133.gif You slide the tool on the glass, with the pointed tip under the trim, and slide the tool in both directions, and that will "pop" the plastic clips that hold the metal trim to the windshield/body. You can also reuse the clips when your ready to re-install the trim. The clips look like this- http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages ... 1_5563.gif And if you add an additional "caulking" use a good grade Urethane sealant.

I meant no harm by my statement, I too was naive in '94, and didn't know anything about the MJ's back then, only over the past 7 years have I've gotten into these beasts. In fact........I don't think I was even on the www until '96-'97 (after Al Gore Invented it) :teehee: I know how it is, the vehicle is broken down, and your at the mercy of a repair shop, and well.......your fresh meat to them. bottom line is.........a voltage meter is the best diagnostic tool for the Renix system.

:clapping: Good.........now I don't need to stay up late typing things to check :D So........how you like that death wobble????? Kind of "shake" things up a bit??? Bet you thought the front wheel fell off didn't you :eek:

:eek: ........Sorry to hear your engine blew up. You ever figure out what make the oil pressure drop and pop the engine???? Good thing you have a "spare" on hand :brows:

What's this........With a '90 XJ........ "Checked with DRB II Scanner........." :rotfl2: "......Showed no stored trouble codes......" :rotf: Where they plug the code reader in..........the cigarette lighter???? :doh: Seams like a nice quick $80 diagnostic charge :roll:

The engine will turn hard at a couple points, when cyls are near compression stroke, that's normal........unless you pull the plugs :brows: This is like the XJ I helped a "kid" with the past 2 weeks, many problems with his, and too many "cooks" in the mix........ got it running, and then it quit last Friday.........spent a day on it, jumped the pump at the relay, and got pressure, but the pump didn't cycle, traced it down to the ground wire on the ECU :eek: Tossing that at you. His was a rats nest under the dash.........I steered clear of that mess......until we found the loose hanging ground wire :roll: Reattached the ground wire, and it fired right up. He had a "few" other things to fix.........like a harmonica balancer that was ready to fall off, Yes, there not to be a 1/2" of space between the two pieces, with the belt riding on only 2 grooves :no: But, he's up and running.......now he just needs to "pay" his debt to me for parts and time.

Here's a link for the Cam PS, testing and replacing........if needed - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm Thanks for jumping in dasbulliwagen :thumbsup: it was getting late last night, and worked all day today :(

With the key on, the rail is pressurized, at about 34-39 psi, and the fuel will shoot out of the schraeder valve. Once the rail is pressurized, the fuel pump stops pumping, and will run when the pressure drops, it cycles in other words. With the key off, the fuel will just dribble out of the valve. This could be your low fuel level in the tank. If the fuel lines look kind of shot, replace them, and make sure you get some "high pressure" fuel lines, not low pressure lines, you need this for the FI. Would the bad line cause pressure issues..........yea, if the line is "blotted" and causing a restriction, this could be messing with the fuel pump, and not sending the proper pressure to the rail, or the proper amount of fuel.

If your tank is almost empty, that could be the problem right there. Yea, I would drain whats left, and put some fresh gas in, at least 3-4 gallons.......if your sitting on level ground.......more if not. OK......I got you on the dizzy, I was not sure that you did make the correction on that. Theres other forums out there :eek: Now that I didn't know..........I thought this was the only forum :hmm: Yes, the timing chain could be stretched. How many miles on this thing??? A way to check "slop" in the timing chain is to set the #1 at TDC, take off the cap, turn the crank CW until the rotor moves very slightly, then turn the crank CCW to and see how far the crank moves before the rotor moves, it should be very minimal, any sizable amount, the chain is stretched, and more than likely in need of replacement.

I don't quite follow you............You want to get your 2.5 up and running, but you have another one on the way :hmm: With 230K on the clock, I would think the engine is about used up :dunno: I don't know 2.5 all that well.......but generally, from what you write, with the engine mis-firing, under acceleration, and the back firing, that's a sure sign the timing chain is shot or stretched, and If I remember right, the 2.5 also has a slack adjuster on the timing chain that wears out. It your CO2 sensor is shot, and the CEL is on, it's not telling the ECU to operate in the "closed loop" and it's staying in the "open loop" operating mode. It's kind of hard to believe that your getting 33 mpg operating in the open loop mode :hmm: Your heading in the right direction to see if your fuel pump is running correctly by doing a pressure check, but you can pick up a new pressure checker at HF for $10 which is good enough for a couple checks.

How fresh is the gas?? If it's spitting and trying to start, and you check every thing else, try some fresh gas if it's been sitting for any amount of time, But, drain out the old gas first. I'm not sure I read this right.......but...... You wrote about the distributor being off..........you can not just loosen the bolt and turn it, the distributor sits in a notch and can not be turned, the rotor has to be pointing at #1 and you need to make sure cyl #1 is at TDC in the compression stroke. The ECU controls the spark advance.

The other question is............ Is the gas Fresh??? Or has this MJ been sitting for a couple months and the gas went south. You really need to check if you have fuel pressure at the rail, and If you have spark (leading to a bad CPS) After you check a few items, get back and report what you find.

About 15 years ago, I ran into a Amish guy who "made" a diesel-generator that charged a bank of 21 golf cart battery's, which in turn would run a complete house. See one in operation, and it was kind of good setup. The generator would kick on for about 20 minutes, maybe twice a day, and keep the battery's charged, the battery's would run thru a converter that supplied both 110 volts and 220 volts to the house. This guy would set everything up, with equipment for $3500 (back then) and they figured the cost of running the system was about $30 a month in diesel fuel (in '95) The pay out was about 8 years, just about the time the battery's needed replacement. I found a link for the generator, but not the complete setup - http://www.thesolar.biz/diesel_battery_chargers.htm The battery's - http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=w ... bP3rjcaz_Q I know when this guy was doing the setup, the owner needed to build a shed to store the battery's and generator, and have an electrician wire it to the house. With the "newer" solar panels, and windmills, I don't know if this system would be worth it today :hmm: Plus, if you have a power supply near buy, in the long run, that might be the best way to go :dunno:

After I re-read you OP......... How fresh is the gas???

Very true. Thats why I alway do the Ohms check on a new one, I don't like changing them to start with, and don't want to change the CPS twice :no:

I like buying things that don't start :D I get them for alot better price :yes: Yea, if the guy didn't mess with it, and it just quit, and has no spark, more than likely its the CPS. You could "try" to unplug it, and plug the connect back in, Sometimes that works, or get an Ohms reading off the CPS, should read from 125-275 Ohms on terminals A & B. if your not in that range, the CPS is in need of replacement.

Your running it with no exhaust at all???? :no: If it a 4.0 (which you didn't post) the Renix 4.0 need some back pressure to operate properly. The best way to create back pressure is from the "stock" exhaust, Header down pipe, Cat and Muffler. Also, if it's "hesitating" when your taking off from a dead stop, you could have a vacuum leak. that would be a good all around check just to make sure that all the vacuum lines are connected.

I got your back on this one........ Just tell her your storing if for me :D Ya know I'm running out of room for the MJ's :eek: If she asks, just call me and I'll cover it for you :yes: Also.......this sounds like another one you found in May :hmm: Oh, that's right, thats the '90 white one............ :teehee: Good luck, and you know, if you really don't want it..............I'm here :D {I liked Pete's idea with the sheet :rotf: }

Gee.......Thanks There located about 5 miles from where I'm at........We "locals" try to keep them busy :D And surprisingly, the Stainless lines are only a couple bucks more that the annealed steel lines :brows: