wvzj

The last set of axles I redone I used Majic brand tractor and implement paint from Tractor Supply. It seems to hold up better and be more durable than the Rustoleum industrial that I had used previously.

I'm lucky enough to park mine in the winter but I use Fluid Film on my dd. Also a lot of shops in NE Ohio undercoat with atf.

No it is not necessary to replace the crush sleeve. Just make sure you use a new pinion nut.

The height of the face is 4 1/4"

They are something like 52".........I'd have to look it up........I have replaced my stock cables with Raybestos cables when I had the D35........they are long. The ZJ cables are something like 42 inches........and are already too short. The ZJ cables length worked perfect on my shortbed, and I used a driver and passenger side without any problems.

No, the housings are different

ZJ parking brake cables work perfect

On the booster I used a 1/4" spacer and bent the firewall lip up just a hair. I did not have to move the washer bottle any at all. Having done both the WJ booster on this MJ and a 96 booster on a previous MJ I had it seems like the WJ booster stops a little better. Either way they are both a substantial increase over stock braking.

I tinkered around on the manche a little more, I finished the WJ booster, put in a ZJ proportioning valve for the rear discs on the 8.8, and got rid of the rear proportioning valve. I also redid all the lines on the 8.8 and used 2 rear right rubber lines coming off the calipers instead of the factory left one that has the Y that goes to the frame. FYI jegs sells a brake line kit with tubing that is powdercoated that is real clean looking.

"API Service SN, SM, SL, SJ" supercedes the SF classification from 20+ yrs ago. You will be fine using it. Everyone has their preferences. I run Mobil Delvac in my diesel motors and in the MJ, everything else gets Castrol.

Looks great. I think I would have cut out and spliced all that extra wire in the harness though. :thumbsup: I would if I knew I was going to keep it on there. I may put it on my ZJ. :thumbsup:

My next project is gonna be the WJ booster upgrade, and finally get the ZJ proportioning valve installed for the 8.8 discs. I am also gonna do away with the rear prop valve and bend new lines and install some extended braided stainless front and rear lines. I also have a JCR rear bumper sitting in the garage waiting for the Miller to get fired up.

The leads for the light bar were ran in front of the battery through a hole to the front of the radiator.

I mounted the relay on the passenger side of the engine bay and routed the switch leads on the firewall with the main wiring harness. From there I went through the grommet just above were the clutch mc would be. I mounted the switch on one of the blank panels to the left of the steering wheel. Relay

I also got a 17" LED light bar from Super Bright Leds, along with their wiring harness. If you buy from their harness is real nice, just drill a hole for the switch and hook it up to the power leads.

I finally got her some new shoes as well. The Kumho's that were on there just weren't doin it for me, and I have had new black steelies waiting to go on for the last 2 yrs. I upgraded to 33x12.50 BFG KM2. I mounted and balanced them at home and used 2000 .12 airsoft BBs per tire. By calculations the only needed 1876 per tire, but i would rather have a few extra as not enough.

I haven't updated in awhile but I have completed a few projects. The first was I upgraded the computer to an 89 model. I did make a noticeable difference in the feel of power. Seems like the MJ idles a little smoother as well. I would definitely recommend this to everyone.

I don't have a build thread on my ZJ. It has a 3 link RK long arm. XJ44 with 4.88, Detroit, Alloy USA shafts and ZJ discs. The front D30 has 4.88s, shafts, and an Eaton elocker. Maxxis 35" rubbers, 242 swap with Tom Woods SYE and driveshaft are the major things. Jeep Jamboree USA rocker panels (1/4" panels, no longer in production), gas skid, t-case skid, lca skids, steering box brace.

You would be correct they are the same parts both made by Federal Mogul, and the same as Napa u-joints. I believe the "super strengths" are made in the USA

I have used both Dynabeads and airsoft bb's for the last 6 years in all of my Jeeps and have had great results with both. Never had an issue with clumping like everyone talks about.

For torque specs Hayne's manual say's 55 inch pounds with rtv and 44 inch pounds with "pre-cured permanent gasket". Like everyone above said the Fel-Pro perma dry gaskets are great, they are worth the few extra bucks.

Here it is hooked up under the manche. I wish i somehow heat shrinked all the wires together between the plugs instead of using black tape. But I think that is me being picky.

After I made each splice I soldered it and used marine heat shrink tubing to seal up the joint and keep the weather out.