AnotherOldJeepGuy

My charging voltage is something over 14, but don't remember how much. According to the internet 13.5V seems to be the low end of the expected number and below that, as you suggested, may not get you to a full charge. I suppose it could be the voltage regulator rather than the alternator, not sure how to know which other than by trial and error.

I replaced both my positive and negative cables as well. This doesn't cost much and you can be sure all the current is getting to the starter.

I have been very satisfied with my Napa 7558.

Was you exhaust still there? I'm thinking that dropping that first would probably help, and you do have to at least disconnect it anyway.

Yeah the 2 underneath ones I was able to get to from the top I did use 3/8 extensions without breaking anything, although it has been a while since I could simulate a 900 lb gorilla torque.

I don't see the wobble aspect of these just in the pic but my local HD says they are in stock so the next trip out I'll go take a look. Probably something handy to have around for more than just this job.

UH, yeah, just a little

No surprise there! Was mainly asking about the 4.0 once you get there and particularly for the lower back 2, these seem to be the worse cause both the exhaust pipe and the brake booster are in the way from the top, and unless you have really long skinny arms the are very hard to reach, for me at least

I'd be very curious to hear how you got to each bolt! From top or bottom, what tool, and so it, if you are so inclined to post that level of detail . In the mean time I am going to check ebay for a single 9/16 wobbler to see how it goes.

Never heard of a wobble socket, looks like it could be useful. Also never heard of crows feet but after looking it up I have seen these, just didn't know the name.

I took out the airbox and that helped gain access to one of the manifold bolts I could not reach before and it did tighten a bit. That leaves only one bottom bolt I can't get to from top or bottom with any leverage. From the top the only way I think I can get to it is to remove the brakes and I'm not ready to do that. I got a wrench on it from below good enough that if it is loose, it's not loose enough to tell with minimal leverage. I'm willing to bet that one bolt that is at least very snug is not it. With the airbox out I put the flashlight eveywhere I could and I cannot see anything that looks like a crack, and I didn't see any smoke. I don't have anything I can use to blow smoke from the other end. I am also watching @Porquer "Funky Idle" thread since his symptoms at least are very much like mine.

Yes I am able to edit the quote without being admin.

Is there a way to start a list on CC that can be edited by everyone? I know it could be started as a single post and then people could copy the list into a reply and modify it. That would definitely work and the current version would always be at the bottom of the post, but the post has the potential for a lot of duplication where a community editable list would be cleaner. So, esdo this feature exits?

I recently successfully share some video by putting the files on a free Google Drive account. See my post, that coincidentally is on an issue very similar to yours, here. Good Luck!

Ah OK. I understand better now, thanks for clearing that up! So it sounds like maybe I have two problems. A lack of vacuum is for sure (HVAC vent control not there at least at lower RPM, and possibly the reason the brake booster is not boosting) plus also engine stumbling. Maybe that's a clue. Maybe what I have is a blown or broken gasket since that would effect both the intake (lack of vacuum) and the exhaust (O2 sensor issue). The other common point is the block, I don't want to go there....

Thanks for all the input so far. Before I tear in to lots of disassembly, I feel like I need some education. The INTAKE manifold has multiple vacuum hose connections. It makes complete sense that the intake side, which is sucking in air, is a great source for creating a vacuum. I also understand that the INTAKE and EXHAUST manifolds share a common set of mounting bolts, and they share a common gasket, so if the bolts work loose it effects both, and therefore effects the vacuum source. I also note that in this gasket although a common gasket, each orifice is independent, i.e. the intake and exhaust pathways do not share the same air space. Opposite to the Intake Manifold, I see a total of 0 vacuum ports on the Exhaust Manifold. So since the exhaust path is independent of the intake path (let's for the moment assume the bolts are all tight and the gasket is intact) exactly how would a crack in the exhaust manifold have any effect on the vacuum??

oops, sorry about that

I don't know for sure but I'll pay attention for a bit. What I have noticed is that sometimes when it shows up, if I log off and back on it hide's itself again. So that would kinda suggest it not strictly based on the number of pages.

I'll throw this in because it worked for me. When I was having some turn sig issues maybe as much as 10y back, I installed 2057 bulbs in the rear even though the manual calls for 1156 in the rear and 2057 in the front. The gremlins went away and they all worked correctly after doing this and have continued to do so. I don't know what the difference in the bulbs really is, or why I even tried this, but regardless it was successful.

Here in TX emission testing is no longer required for vehicles over 25. (IIRC I think there are a few TX cities that do require it but not where I live). [Oddly enough the state still collects the same annual fee, just discontinued the test, way to go politicians] I'm not sure I fully understand that last part, "Most people don't like the idea of the buildup of combustion by-product in parts of the 'clean' intake side of the engine", is that a Pro or Con to EGR Delete, sounds like it's a Con?

Great! If I decided to go this route I'll definitely give boxyjeep the order.

So sometime a summary block appears to the right, and sometimes it doesn't. What the heck? Is there a way to toggle it on/off?

OK got it. Does anyone know of an EGR Delete Kit?

I saw a video where the guy deleted the EGR. (He even mentioned CC in the video). He didn't say anything about the consequences of deleting this, but did note that reassembling was much easier with it deleted and it was easy to see why once me mentioned it. What is the downside to removing the EGR? Doesn't this mess with the ECU?

Cool!. I took a quick look on eBay, figured if they were out there eBay would know about it, didn't see any.