AnotherOldJeepGuy

I replaced my stalk, but the cruise didn't get fixed in the process. However the other functions that were dead are now undead, and I should at least now know my stalk it not the issue. I don't know how far I'll dig into the cruise since I have lived without it, but thought I'd pass on what did get fixed, here's the details....

I made it out on the road today, no cruise . But again, I wasn't really expecting it. When/If I continue working on the cruise, I'll document it in the other thread where my cruise control testing to this point is already there, or perhaps start a new one. This OP on it's own is a done deal!

I just changed my title from "Wiper Stuck in Intermittent - Long Delay (1990)" to "Wiper Stuck in Intermittent - Long Delay (1990) - Fixed". Then it occurred to me, does changing a title break the follow feature? So I am asking.

Success so far. And it is true there are no tools required. In my case the old one came out in three pieces so a pretty good sign it was time for it to be retired! I have noticed the same thing noted by @pizzaman09, this replacement is a bit "tight" in the controls, but, they work. Well, I have not tried cruise yet, but I am not really expecting this to fix that problem (my debug steps to this point here), but if it does, I won't complain. Because of this untested function I have not even considered routing the cruise wire through the column yet. Old One in pieces. New One Something to note for the purist, this replacement is annoyingly longer than the original. The view to the driver with my stock steering wheel hides some of the wiper control text, and 100% of the cruise control text. So if this visual is important to you, you might want to search for a different new stalk. The distance in red is 3 7/16" on the replacement, on the original this distance is 2 11/16.

If this is still holding up, please drop in pictures! If not, has a new solution taken it's place?

Bummer. I put in my new one in November, I guess I'll be watching for recommendations to make it last.....

I prefer Napa as well, the folks at my local Napa are great. There is a catch though. For the case where the exact part is sold by Napa and Autozone, Napa is more expensive and in some cases a lot more expensive . No Advanced Auto close enough for this comparison. Then of course, there's always Rock Auto when you are not in a hurry....

According to Amazon, my new wiper stalk comes in today. And for future reference... I watched this very short video just now on the replacement. https://youtu.be/FWTulWanhdI?si=tFN9TFJeu_N63yFh

Great, doesn't look too difficult, I'll put it on the list!

Any good write-up on the restoration you happen know of, especially ones with good pictures?

Just to clarify, when I say loose, I am referring to the rotational movement that sets the various different wiper settings. The detents seem to be very worn. The connection of the stalk to the column feels normal and things like turn signals and high beam control still work. Of course the proof remains to be seen when I attempt to install a new stalk.

Well @Pete M, I hope you are wrong! But my stalk is very lousy-goosy so it won't be a bad thing to swap it anyway, just hoping I get lucky and that's all I need to do.

I am planning to just pull out the wiper fuse in the mean time to keep the wipers from running unless I need them. Seems like an OK plan as long as I don't find an immediate downpour with no warning.

A couple weeks ago my intermittent setting pickup up a quirk, that is when I switched into intermittent, instead of 1 swipe first, I got 2 or 3, but from that point it worked normally. I didn't care much since other than a couple extra swipes all was good. Yesterday I turned on the wipers, and now I can't turn them off other than putting the key in the off position. They seem to be stuck in the intermittent position and it appears with the long delay setting. I suppose it could also be that they are not actually in the intermittent position, but are emulating that setting. Either way, they are always on. The washer activation seems to still work normally. My control stalk feels like it is bad for sure, so I have ordered a replacement. (Link to other post) but I am starting this thread to specifically document this issue since I was not able to find it here. And if the new stalk fixes it, this will be a short thread (and that would be the outcome I prefer). I'll update once the new stalk gets here as to what that outcome is! My 1990 has the tilt column and cruise control. The switch I ordered is the one off Amazon that was posted here by @pizzaman09 in topic https://comancheclub.com/topic/74420-cruise-control-switchstalk-can't-find-one/#comments

Thanks for that confirmation @ghetdjc320! I'll think about the rental so I can route the cable just in case someday I decide to try and debug the cruise also.

I think my stalk is toast! Seems like I have read you just "pull the old one out" to the left and push in the new one. It is really that easy? Well, this doesn't include the work of routing the cruise wire, but since my cruise probably doesn't work anyway, that doesn't matter much.

Sounds good so far, will be watching to see if that last front socket repair does the trick!

Ah thanks. Well shoot, I already have the dash back in so I'll have to look for the second set the next time I have that removed.

Just swapped out my radio and I snapped the pic below of extra wired connectors behind the dash trim to the right of the light switch, and wondered what they are for. Would they be functional, ie, could I connect up what goes there and have functional, whatever goes there, stuff?

Installed new radio. Kenwood KDC-X305. Fits well but that is not a surprise since it is a 1U standard unit, and the one I had in there before (Blaupunkt San Jose MP41) was that also and I had already opened up the dash trim to allow the face-plate trim to fit. The install was smooth because of the standard size, and because Crutchfield provides the necessary connection harness the mates to the Jeep harness so all the wiring gets done at the kitchen table instead of in the cab, and the Jeep harness is unmodified. The Kenwood sounds good enough, but it is not the unit the Blaupunkt was. The Blaupunkt sounded better, and the user interface was WAY better! Sadly the 1994 purchased San Jose is no longer available and neither are spare parts. I do actually have 3 of them, the original and two purchased off EBAY that didn't last. I may actually try to make 1 good one out of the 3 I have, but I would not be holding my breath at successful radio repair! Worth noting that when I installed the Blaupunkt in 1994 I also installed new front speakers and added the tweeters already mentioned in my OP.

I learn something every time I read stuff here! Until today I always thought all water pumps that fit did pretty much exactly the same thing!

I had some screwy operation a while back, can't remember exactly what it was, and in my experimentation I replace the REAR turn signal bulbs, specified in the manual as #1156, with #2057 (which is what is specified for the FRONT turn signal lights), and the correct operation was restored. Don't ask me to explain it, but it worked. That was several years ago and other than the issue I get when it's 95 degrees out, all the signal lights work as they are expected to work.

Cool!

It's certainly possible that the B and A points connect, but I can't be sure from that pic alone. I am assuming the hose that starts in circle B follows the yellow line. If it does, and the yellow line continues over to the left edge of the engine bay and then heads down in the direction of the left side of the bumper towards a small tank (which I have heard called the football in some threads), than that becomes probably rather than just possible. If the yellow line goes as guessed then it most likely either connects to A or to C. I would be willing to make a guess that A is the more likely one but that is a guess. I don't believe there is any harm trying both and see if either connection restores airflow control so the air isn't stuck only coming out of the defrost vents. If it does then you know you have made progress and you know which connection is correct. Of course it is also possible that the airflow control still won't work for either connection which would suggest there is a second leak, a stuck baffle, or some other gremlin, but start with trying the connections and perhaps you will get lucky and that will be the only problem with the airflow control. Note you will need to start the engine to establish a vacuum since there is none currently, that is, you can't tell success by just switching on the system in the ACC position, since until you start the engine you won't get an initial vacuum. Once you determine which connection is correct, A or C, than the one you don't connect needs to go to the heater control valve.

Congrats. Reading this thread makes me think! When I bought my 90, in 1990, I had no idea I would have it so long that something as simple as a power steering cap (or any part really) would be obsolete during my ownership!