jage

Oh you can drive it, it just won't run very long, and things will be really messy afterwards.

Oizarod, the bolt (on the frame end) should be a kingpin - the nut should have slots in half of it, and once tightened, slots pointing upward, it gets a cotter pin through the hole in the bolt... keeps it from getting loose. If you look at the draglink connection to the track bar or the stabilizer to the drag link these are the same kind of bolts. Mea Culpa if you already know this, but it sounds like you may have a normal nut or no cotter pin and that's why it keeps loosening.

See also my sig..

Also depends what year TJ - my TJ seats are about 4" taller than the '06 seats. Not sure when they changed, but before 2000 they didn't need the "hockey puck" mod. Document and photograph please! I have an MJ that is still sans seats.

Let's see, if it broke off on the drivers' side I suppose the bolt base probably broke, or I guess the cup holding the bolt could have broken. Either way unless the end looks like this (in which case you lost the nut and that's good): Otherwise you'll probably have to replace the track bar. The end on my MJ and XJ stock track bars are all single piece cast, where as this pic was an adjustible end. I guess yours could already be aftermarket like this and this whole piece could have fallen out. A good time to upgrade, or there should be many available used. If you can match the length to the one you're replacing when you install you should be as good as you started. Alignment might not be a bad idea though because depending on how this broke you might have bunged something else up. Hope this ramble helps somewhat... :beerhead:

Isn't solid blue usually the power antenna?

You need some img tags in your sig brohan. It should look like this (just the green part): [img=http://www.jage.com/smilies/comanchelongbed.gif]

I don't think there is much left but the wiring itself and the switch on your column. I'd go with bad ground wire or bad socket. Use of your arm is still legal as far as I know. :nuts:

:needpics:

http://www.exaxt.ca/ has info, they sell disc conversion kits or something. it's been awhile since I looked into this.

Yeah actually when I got my budget together for finishing the truck I was looking at mog axles, but with the 8-9" lift springs the portals would have had me at 14" or something. Have you offered to take them off his hands? :brows: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=112&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=unimog+photo&start=65

I'm skipping the D60 because of raw weight issues, plus the 9" in the rear is a bargin for me and I don't want D60 front and 9" rear.

Yup that's exactly what we're doing. My friend who's finishing the build back in Indiana is going to look for an F250 front D44 and we're cutting down to 63" WMS-WMS and a Ford 9" is going in the back, cut down to 61" with discs and a drain plug. We considered an early bronco Front D44 but at 60" we're talking wheel spacers and a 60" back maximum... As for gears I'm going with 5.89 in the front and 5.83 in the rear which is about 1% difference.

Yeah I was wondering about that. It's a 2.5L so my weak link should be stalling the engine. Problem is there is like a 150% price jump between using 1/2 ton outers and 1 ton and that breaks me. Then you start to wonder about the logic of putting all that money into a rust bucket MJ that was free, or at least I do. But the front axle is the one place I had budget and I thought matched 9" axles would be very cool - the real question should be maybe if it is worth having a front 9" 1/2 ton over a ford HP 44...

I always thought this *was* Woody: Also gotta suggest taking the finger photo down. I can be an antisocial a**hole myself, but this isn't NAXJA after all...

It's a Ford 9" front and Ford 9" rear. That's "wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface", which he explained was the outside of the brake roter.

OK, I'm looking at the final numbers for my front axle- how does running 64" width front and rear strike you guys? 9" of lift, 5.83 gears, 38" tires, 5 on 5.5", 1/2 ton knuckles

There is a hole in the rear bumper, you stick the jack handle in the hole and twist down a cable on a drum to lower the tire. You may have rust issues from never having used it. There are some discussions on the site if you do a search on here you'll get a better idea what I'm talking about. Also, I've never pulled down the spare on any of my MJs and I'm not actually looking at one as I write this so it may not be totally accurate, I'm picturing my F250... but the idea is the same- long skinny tool, rear entry, crank away.

That truck is awesome. At first glance I thought it was just another cropped XJ, but when you look closer at the door shape... wow. Seems like a lot of work. It seems so much easier to drop a frame on and line up a bed and rear window than to try to modify the MJ B pillar to accept a rear door, but I guess you wind up having the small rear opening left over from the XJ wheel well that way. Essentially the factory MJ is the same thing- a factory cropped XJ with a rear frame attached to the unibody and a bed thrown on. So it sort of begs the question, exactly what is a "real MJ"? And Bonkers, if that thing really is that expensive WTF is up with the junky looking rims? At least paint 'em black for crissake!

Super good- so do you recall which strut you used and could we get rough measurements? It would be cool if each person to do this would refine the process until we had a "Buy X,Y and Z, drill at A and B, bolt on"

It say's item location "Sunland, CA" I got excited too thinking I might go round and take photos if he was in Tucson...

I ran into somebody who swapped a diesel from a little delivery van, like a mitsubishi or something... it was choice hearing that diesel thrumming out of an XJ. Wish I'd gotten details on the swap/engine...

Those XJ rear hatches have some serious weight to them too- way more than a hood IIRC, so it could be really hard to get them tuned, much less mount them without the stupid ball clip thing. I'd love to see a write up on something simple that works with the hood and is easy to mount and cheaply available... somebody in the ricer or muscle car world has to have done this if not in the Jeep world...

I think for $11,500 you could build that no problem... I mean who doesn't have an extra manche bed around from their truggy project already?

the most important thing is to be patient- if you buy some rusty hunk because you're desperate you'll reget it when a nice one comes along. don't let the apparent scarcity get you, there are decent manches out there.