sinnaevd

if you run the 242 in full time 4wd, and you have 3.54 front and 3.56 rear, would this small difference come into play, or would it still be minor??/

it now runs, which is great news. the only problem now is that it is SUPER SUPER LOUD The power steering pump is close to being bone dry, and I think I am getting some belt squeal (sp?) from the alternator. Also I have no exhaust hooked up and there is that one pipe off of the manifold that is broken as well...so it's going to take a while before I figure out what is making what noise. Also the water pump is probably bone dry as well which would add to some noise. If its bottom end noise I will probably jump, but it never had any before so I don't see why it would now. All in all it has been very interesting... Tomorrow I am going to try and get it to run a lot better. I am pretty sure some of the sensors wiring is a little screwy so we shall see what happens. Again that stupid Hanes manual was absolutally useless.

I have absolutally no idea. I tried to get it off to replace it but there is not enough room for me to swing a 7/8" wrench around to get the pipe off. I have another one here. Oh well, I am probably just going to leave it I guess and see what happens. Hopefully it is no major problem, or I guess I will have to tare everything apart again The good news is, in another 40 mins or so I will have all the vaccuum lines in the correct spot. Alls I have left to do is get the fuel lines back into the TBI unit, and change the batteries and all should be well. My next endevour will be getting rid of some bad gas, as it's been sitting for about a year or so now. Getting the vaccuum lines in the corrent spot is getting to kind of be a PITA because they were never correct in the first place(from when I took the origional engine out). Oh well, all in all this engine swap has costed about 5 bucks (which is like what 100 dollars american? hahaha, feels good to finally be able to crack that joke)

the vaccuum line diagram is on the inside of m y engine as well, which is what I am hoping to use. My problem came when I used an 87 YJ 2.5 into an 86 2.5 Comanche. I figured that most of the stuff was for pollution control and I could have probably plugged it off, but I can't seem to figure it out. Also the linkage on the TBI unit is different from the 2.5 manual to the 2.5 auto (again YJ to MJ), to I think to save myself the hassle, I will just switch off the TBI units and vaccuum pieces. My other problem is that the pipe that runs from the Intake into the Exhaust manifold is broken, due to prying on it to get the block to drop onto the mounts. So I now have to figure out how the heck I am going to fix that, looks like I will be pulling off the power steering pump , which was a real PITA the first time. I am really starting to dislike the 2.5 compared to my 4.0

Well after some "persuasion" (please read screaming, swearing, bending and pulling) the tranny lines are in. It ony took about an hour with help. Tomorrow the TBI unit gets swapped over (because the vaccuum lines are absolutally everywhere and no matter what I do I can't figure them out), hook that pile of speghetti noodles for vaccuum lined up and them make it run. I tried cranking it over a few times tonight, hopefully everything is working the way it is suppose to. If it doesnt run I will probably cry. The engine ran before, so I don't understand why it wouldn't now...

i am honestly contemplating using rubber hose....because i just don't care anymore. I will have to have my dad give me a hand when he gets home i think. I am getting to sore to work on it for much longer. Unfortunately it is the only thing left so I can start it up and get the vaccuum lines figured out, which will be aother adventure i am sure.

no this is a 904 (or 90 something) the tranny lines run down the middle of the casing of the tranny on the top, then drop down to the side where they bolt into the casing. everytime i try to run them in, I can't get them to twist to the point that they will slide forward. they keep binding on the transmission and transmission tunnel

the truck is in the air, the lines were attempted to be slid in from the bottom they keep binding on the transmission, and i can't get them over the tranmission togethor or apart

3 hours later and i got the power steering pump lines on. I have never wanted to throw a tool more in my life. My hand is also cut open and bleeding everywhere, with a little oil running into the wound.... And for what? A comanche that is still missing the effing tranny lines because I forgot to put then back on when I put the engine back inside the truck. SO now how the hell am I suppose to fish them back through without breaking them? Yep I have no idea neither... :headpop:

When the Body shop redid the green truck I have know, they used Fenders to replace the sides because they supposedy were the same shape and length and matched the bnody lines pretty decent. They used the passenger side fender for the drivers side box and driverside fender for the passenger side box. The truck had a rust ring close to about 5 inches all the way around the wheel well. Its looks pretty decent in my opinion, it turned out well, and a set of used rust free fenders would be peanuts to find. Maybe that can be a solution to your problem, and shouldn't cost you too much either. At least then you will get the factory appearing lip.

in my opinon, if your running 33's, then lift it. and put on the 33's I wouldn't worry about axle upgrades or gearing, I have seen plenty of people run 33's on 4.10 gearing and they did rather well. granted a little underpowered, but they still did well.

Tires surprisingly don't look too shabby And now for the Ugly. This cabcorner got crunched a bit, but all in all shouldn't take too long to fix. I am going to quickly redo the bottom half of the truck, until I have more time to repaint the entire truck propely, which won't be until my charger is finished and painted Interior is dirty but not too shabby. I already have a new(er) steering column coming to match the rest. No dummy lights which I think is awesome. The best part is that the bed and floors and most panels are rust free (or have a bit of surface rust but nothing major) With only bad rocker panels, I can deal as it's probably the best I will be able to find for a while here in Ontario

So I have put in an engine out of an 87 YJ into an 86 comanche. There were no differences in wiring, but I am having issues with the vaccuum lines as they are different between the twe system. I have been through my Hanes manual and it hasn't been much help. Now I am using the 87 Intake, so what vaccuum lines can I eliminate and which must I keep? Do I Have to use the canister from the 87 to make it all work properly? The steel tube that connects the intake to the exhaust (bent in an l shape) is also broke. how much trouble is this going to cause?

it is almost finished now. Just need to finish up the wiring and what not. Unfortunately the underside was sub-par on the "professionally redone body" It make be a quick sale, as its not a good candidate forthe heavy modification planned. I do have the New Mj waiting to come in the yard though. This new one will be my new DD. Not too many plans for it, but should be nice

another month or so I will have the free time in the worls to give you a hand...Til I start my internship at the Chrysler R&D in January. Let me know bud.

We shall continue this talk on TWJC...

hey Oke, if you want to buy an 86 Comanche, I just got done putting in a YJ 4 banger that should be a direct bolt in to your YJ...lol Sorry about ur luck Bud. I will keep my ears open. What are you driving to get around in?

the toyo open country is personally a favourite tire of mine. I would say wait for them. But i know a lot of people that run procomp tires and really like them as well. But my two cents would be to wait for the toyo's

yeppers, the black one. There is a white one for sale on there right now, a 4 banger that you might wanna look at. Its suppose to be rust free. my friend had him down to 200, but I backed out because i had wanted the other. I think the drivetrain would be a direct swap over from your current one if I'm not mistaken...

That Adam Keller motors is about 5 mins from my house. I wonder how they know eachother because I have never seent hat one around before...

Super excited. Needs a little bit of work but all in all supoose to be pretty solid. 89 Comanche Elminator 4x4. Black on grey interior, bucket seats, 5 spd (not sure whether pukegoat or not but I pray not) Its an origional 4x4. Bed is suppose to be rust free as well as most oft he body. Needs rocker panels though, not a big deal. Renix 4.0L 220K km's (or about 130K miles i think) needs tires, which I have (30x9.5Xr15 MTR's), a headliner, gas tank, and probably brakes and what not. Super excited. I will get some pics up soon.

I have seen 33's on those rims before. If you buy them used (which I highly recommend) you will more then likely get rims anyways?

i am pretty sure i could live in Alaska year round, or maybe in the Yukon or Northwest. Yellowknife is suppose to be just amazing. I absolutally love winter. There is no such thing as a better season.

That was my biggest problem, with my current health issues swapping over parts was my only option to getting it back on all 4's if I was healthier and able to move the heavy axle I would have not even bothered messing with it lol If my buddy wasn't in exams he would have one it for me, but I didn't want to burden him with that while he is studying (even though it is technically his comanche as he paid for it) oh well. I learned some interesting things about how stupid the 2wd front axle is anyway lol

cooling is found to not be needed unless boost is over 8 psi, or you are running a rediculously high compression ratio no idea what a 4.0 compressioin ratio is stock