comancheman
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Everything posted by comancheman
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id post pics if i knew how but it basically looks just like JohnQ's floor
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my driver side floor is pretty rusty. i wire brushed it and primed and painted it just to seal it for now but ther are a few small holes that i can see light shining through. I'm guessing i will have to strip all the paint off wich is no big deal but what else will i have to do inorder to seal my floors and make them nice and solid. i guess my question is what products should i buy from por 15 and how much of them. is it a one step process or is their multiple steps? ive read about silver por 15 for rusty surfaces. where do i start?
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I'm at 5.5 and definetly need one. it reduces the angles that your draglink and tie rod are at, putting less stress on your steering components. also I'm not sure if the is pitman arm related but i cannot turn all the way to the right after putting in the lift actually i can barely turn to the right at all but if your not having any problems why worry about it
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I'm an angle grinder guy also but my fingers would tell u a different story
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does the 8.25 compare to the d44? I'm probably going to run the ford 8.8 but my buddy is putting a 9 inch out of a first generation bronco into his xj and the 97 8.25 will be up for sale and probably very cheap.
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dead issue but i still need help
comancheman replied to comancheman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
so, lift up rear end, remove temp sensor, start cold motor and run it until coolant squirts out hole. pressure bottle cap on or off? -
i need to bring the rear up an inch or two to level it out, i already have a SOA in the rear but my spring pack is pretty warn out . it flexes awesome but i need it to match the 5.5 inch front springs i thought about GM drop shackles but i don't like how they push your axle forward
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who makes them?
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dead issue but i still need help
comancheman replied to comancheman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
so put the rear on stands and run the truck with the temp sensor removed? -
closed coolant system 4.0 flushed heater core flushed block by running a garden hose into the small hose on thermostat housing and then out of the hose by the thermostat that runs to the heater core then pulled off lower hose and drained the radiator. replaced radiator and hoses attached lower hose and filled radiator through upper hose. i tried to fill the block through the tube that runs from the block to the heater core but couldnt fit much at all. then i filled the pressure bottle half way with coolant. i have about 4 or 5 gallons of old anti freeze that i drained but could only fit three gallons of new anti freeze. i ran the truck till the uppper hose was hot and then for a few minutes after that. The coolant level in the bottle would go up when i loosend the cap. and it would bubble when i revved the truck but the level never went down so i could add more. any suggestions?
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any specific type?
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johnq where did u get the rubber mat for your floors and watd u use for the floor repair?
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o yeah... if antidisestablishmentarianism i did was wrong someone correct me please ^^^
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i just put in adjustable UCAs and LCAs with 5.5.inch springs. i initially set my arms so my driveshaft angle was non existent. when i set the truck down from the jack stands my coils arched like a backward C in the wheel well because where the coil mounts in the wheel well wasnt lining up with where it mounts in the axle. i had to sacrifice a little extra u-joint longevity so my coils sit right on there perch. it took a few trys of adjusting the control arms to get it right but hopefully itll work out
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Measuring for new shocks?
comancheman replied to ChiefJosh's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'm going to have to buy new shocks soon for a 5.5 inch lift but I'm pretty confused. if i measure the way mentioned above wouldnt i really limit my droop because the shock would almost be fully extended when the truck is sitting level? -
are you saying GM one ton TREs will thread onto the stock tie rod?
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I'm doin mine now just because i need the return money for UCAs and a track bar
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Crossmember location with AW-4
comancheman replied to BRC 88MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
off of the main unibody frame rails there are additional supports that come off to the side and go up towards the rockerpanel. the rear holes of the cross member line up the holes that are on the main frame rail directly inside the side support. hope this makes sense :nuts: -
Thought I seen a GM shackle??
comancheman replied to CEThomas's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
do the chevy shackles need alot of washers or will one on each side of the spring do the job. I'm thinkin about using these but not if I'm gonna have to rig them on. also on my friends old yota he put on lift shackles and it pushed his axle forward a good ways. is it going to look funny if i use a shackle lift? -
up here in mass i wave at anyone with a jeep but i only get a wave back if I'm drivin with my bro in his yj
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cutting off on the road
comancheman replied to renegade2345's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
can't u ruin other sensors by using carb cleaner on a fuel injected vehicle? -
nice one dirty, but my 88 d35 had a rubber plug and so does my 90
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wats better the c clip 35 or the non c clip 35?
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you won't need it to pass emissions it doesnt have any effect on the motor or how it runs
