SW86

fixed a tranny line leak. thinking i might replace the stock trans cooler with a slightly larger one from autozone.

garden hose, covered

ive had the idea rolling around in my head for some time to get some front ones. i like the hannemann 6" flat tops, i think several members here have them, but what are others? i know glassworks and ajax IIRC. neither of which i like. just curious if there are others out there i might of missed. thanks

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tierod-1.htm its stronger all the way around. any GC with a V8 with have it. V6s do not. plus i wouldnt cheap out on tie rod ends or ball joints. both have a important roll but if you like death wobble or loosing control and crashing go for it :D

nothing wrong with that :thumbsup:

i was gonna be pissed if you didnt post a teaser! :rotf: are you going to put on all the sponsor decals too?

^^^ i don't either.. I'm happy with 33s... here's mine on 305x70x16 aka 33.07x12.01x16 ive got 6.5 coils and SOA 4wd springs.

i went 305s which are a true 33. mine are 33.1 actually. plus 33s make the harder trails a challenge but if your locked front/rear you could even run 31s and keep up with the big dogs. ground clearance might suffer but thats what belly protection is all about. for what your talking about doing go 33s. you won't regret it. i went 6.5 and SOA and its perfect to me. looks, function, everything. when i wheel i go hard and its never slowed me down from following guys on 37s. sure they can make hard stuff look easy but again, wheres the fun in that if theres no challenge.

chelsea grin, whitechapel :chillin: check out Annotations of an Autopsy's - "before the throne of infection" album. badass as hell.

i wheel doorless and never had an issue. half doors are the way to go. they give more protection from flying rocks/mud but give a good bit of the visibility back

finally been getting to drive it around since the open system swap. everything seems to be good to go. loving the sound of the mud grapplers even more. i often have my head out the window just to listen to them and a few people have come up to me and said they thought a plane was flying by until they saw (heard) me pass :D :rotf:

i want that jeep!!! :drool: :drool:

theres a guy who supplied several guys in my other club with 18' trailers with rear brakes, new tires with a spare and ramps for $1,585. he's in southern missouri about 45 min south of lamberts restaurant (the place where they throw rolls to you). i know your in AL but it could be worth the drive depending on how far you are. ive got his number if you want it. thats where ill be buying mine from. i should be able to dig up a picture here in a little bit.

Hmm i did not. So far the coolant has been cleaner then I've ever see it with this truck. I've only ran it long enough to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open to cycle the whole system though. It's only two hoses though so flushing it wouldn't be a problem if it's really needed.

sweetness!!

thanks. guess ill chase it down and cap it off. i also found a random pic of someone elses open system swap which showed the top to the thermostat and bottom to the water pump. so thats how i ran it. drove it and it seemed to be fine.

okay last questions. which hose goes where to the heater core? water pump to bottom/top to thermostat? or vice versa? and i had to unplug this little elbow that went to a connection on the old hoses. it was like a vacuum hose for the a/c maybe? does it matter that its just sitting unplugged or should i cap it off?

i also went Moog and rented the autozone press. i now own the harbor freight c press. its cheap and does more then just ball joints. so why not. on the autozone press just figure which cups to use, then i simply used a extra wrench as a spacer on the top ones. worked good to me and didnt bend my wrench.

pulled the old (less than a year old 3 row) radiator since it crapped out. DO NOT buy from racewayparts a sister company off radiator express. also took out the water pump, thermostat and housing for the new ones going in. got rid of the pressure bottle as well and all hoses with it. so basicly doing the open system swap with all new cooling system parts. its been long over due.

i don't know anything about this kind of stuff but my local club just updated to a newer site. its an IP.Board 3.2.3 or so it says at the bottom of the page. very easy to use and works great. give it a look if you'd like. www.midsouthjeeps.com/forums/index.php i don't know if you have to pay or what but from what the guys who set it up says it easy to do and easy to work with

:rotf: i know your working on it pete. it was just a very long day yesterday and i was going off on just about everybody by the time i got home. :peek:

:doh:

its really starting to piss me off. its only comanche club that does it but not all the time. it always kicks me off, making me log in at least twice a week. the page loads extremely slow but not all the time. posts take forever and usually have to hit the button more than once to get it to work. am i the only one that this is happening to? :headpop:

damn. can't believe i never thought of that! might give that one a go for sure also you could of grabbed the disc brakes off that same ZJ. good swap for the rear depending on what axle you have. i love mine.

i didnt need to mod my driveshaft after the swap but i went spring over in the rear. i have no clue about staying spring under if thats what your doing also. measure twice, weld once! that includes axle positioning and angles