oleskool

Anything I can get on color and without toe hooks preferred.

Looking for the connector piece between the front flares that mounts below the bumper. PO removed the flares and this piece. The flares were in the bed but this piece was missing. Circled the part I’m looking for in red

Well found a little time to throw the OEM flares back on the PO removed. Didn’t have any mounting brackets so I made my own. I like this look much better.

Definitely ready for a hitch plate!

Had a little down time while working in the garage and decided to flip the grill the correct way. Had to cut the fog light wiring the PO installed straight through the grill lol. While it was out I decided to give it a fresh coat of paint.

Haha. If they act anything like the brake lines I’m in for a fight

Well another weekend another issue. Noticed a rusty sludge on the drivers side carpet. Started investigating and found the clutch master cylinder leaking fluid into the cab and down the clutch rod got a new one in order so tomorrow I guess we will see how quickly we can knock it out. The changing it out isn’t the hard part but breaking the fittings loose that’s a different story lol.

@Canine Cheese willing to pull the console and ship?

Thank you sir, I put it back just like factory. It was super easy to do after I studied how to unbolt / bolt it in. If you jack up the front driver tire, remove the front driveshaft from the pinion and slide it out of the way, you can get to it by going in by the front lower control arm. Literally a 10 minute job after I learned that little trick haha.

Got around to checking the CPS yesterday while I was out in the garage. As expected it had an output below nominal and was reading around .2VAC. Swapped in a new one and validated the readings, everything looked good so I finished putting everything back together. So far so good, it got me to work today so that is a plus I guess haha.

Yeah I’m sure. Everything else has been verified except the CPS which I did today. Definitely the issue. .2 VAC while cranking. Replaced with a new sensor and check output again. All is good with the idle and how it runs.

Link to get new pins. I’m about to do the same. I did buy a donor fuse box in good shape.

Ok. It’s a long story….. Well. Went to head out last night in the truck and got a new issue It cranked up faster than normal but only went up to 1500 RPM and then stayed at ~1k ish idle. It was running rich and sputtering etc bad. It’s fine this once before when I had the interior out so I never bothered digging into it. I went ahead and drove it down the street where it lost all power and wouldn’t rev at all until it stalled. So now I’m in the middle of a poorly lite street with a dead truck I had to push it off to the side. Popped the hood to check it all out and everything looked good. No matter how many times I cranked it over I got no start. Finally I let it sit for 30 minutes or and as I decided to just walk back to grab my tools and my JK to whim he it safely to a traveled parking spot I tried it one more time. It tried to start. Hit the ignition again and boom. It fired up. Turned around and limped it home real quick so I could diagnose it tomorrow. Tried to crank it this morning before heading out for the day and it did the same thing. Here is what it does. I am digging into the CPS tomorrow. My experience with them is either good or bad and not intermittent but from what I read it can cause a random stalling issue. It a sensor I have meant to at least check and clean since I bought the truck but just haven’t got to it. The fuel pump is good and pressure is good. Ignition, fuel lines etc, TPS, IAC, and MAP are all new and verified to be good. At least they were a couple days ago lol. I have tested sensor grounds as Cruiser lays out and everything checks out good. I will mention it was damp and wet yesterday and today when I took the video. any other ideas or helpful suggestions? TIA.

Well. Went to head out last night in the truck and got a new issue It cranked up faster than normal but only went up to 1500 RPM and then stayed at ~1k ish idle. It was running rich and sputtering etc bad. It’s fine this once before when I had the interior out so I never bothered digging into it. I went ahead and drove it down the street where it lost all power and wouldn’t rev at all until it stalled. So now I’m in the middle of a poorly lite street with a dead truck I had to push it off to the side. Popped the hood to check it all out and everything looked good. No matter how many times I cranked it over I got no start. Finally I let it sit for 30 minutes or and as I decided to just walk back to grab my tools and my JK to whim he it safely to a traveled parking spot I tried it one more time. It tried to start. Hit the ignition again and boom. It fired up. Turned around and limped it home real quick so I could diagnose it tomorrow. Tried to crank it this morning before heading out for the day and it did the same thing. Here is what it does.

Finally got the new dome lights installed. Nice to have lights back in the MJ. The next piece is to replace the door switches that don’t seem to be working. Not looking forward to that one haha.

Well I tracked down the stalling and low idle issue. Appears the EGR or part of the circuit isnt performing correctly causing the issue. I have plugged the elbow that goes to the EGR solenoid for now but I guess its time to clean it and see if that helps!

Figured I would update this. Pulled the vac line to the EGR and capped it off. Perfect idle everything with no stalling. Now to decided what to do here, I will probably delete it all together but the source of the stalling is definitely there! Just wanted to throw that out there just incase someone else was pulling out their hair with a truck stalling at stops etc.

Thank you for the reply and all the great information. I tend to call this wrong because I work mostly on carbs lol. The throttle plate butterfly was incorrectly adjusted (I am assuming because it was so gummed up it had a low idle). I corrected this and adjusted to your spec, all is good in the world! I then adjusted the TPS to the correct spec and now we have a sweet running little jeep! This cycle sent me into a stalling issue I had noticed when I hold in the clutch, moving or stopping. I posted about this in another thread. Since I am 100% sure everything on the sensor side is correct now the next logical place would be the EGR. I pulled the vac and sealed it off.... perfect idle everytime lol. Now I need to make the decision of trying to find a replacement, clean mine and see what happens or delete it. I live in SC so no inspections leads me to the delete method but I have not made that decision just yet. Thank you for all your write ups, they have made this journey much simpler than it could have possibly be!

That's awesome. This is my first Comanche but I own plenty of jeeps haha. I have to say this thing is a alot of fun to drive when it runs right lol. I am slowly trying to return it to almost completely stock form besides tire size and radio.

I get a random low idle when coming to a stop light or stop etc when I hold the clutch. This doesn’t happen all the time but I’m a little stumped on this one. All grounds are good and have been re done. New TPS that’s set correctly, new IAC, new MAP and no vac leaks that I can find. The truck runs great at idle and top end with plenty of power. Any ideas. This one is sporadic so it’s hard to pin point. I grabbed a short clip when I took it out for a drive earlier making sure my high idle issue was fixed. I pushed in the clutch and coasted and the RPMs drop to ~200 ish. Any help is appreciated. TIA.

Well after some trouble shooting with help from meme era here I finally got the idle fixed. Decided to throw in a new TPS. I grabbed one for an auto because it’s cheaper lol and a new MAP. The POs nephew decided to crank the butterfly open for what I can only assume was a poor idle due to vac lines being rotted and the throttle body itself being gummed up. When I cleaned everything it set the throttle body butterfly gap to large and caused me to not be able to set the TPS or the idle. He even used loctite on the set screw. 3/32 Allen wrench and loctite is always a good time lol. Adjust the throttle body down the the correct idle and then used the voltmeter to set the TPS. Everything is good to go now.

I thought I was. Re measured and the gap was a little wide. Adjusted it back down to spec and reset the TPS. Boom idles at 750 RPM. Runs good on the street too. Now to figure out my last issue which is a random low RPM surge when I hit the clutch. Doesn’t do it all the time but it’s annoying lol.

I checked the opening when fully closed and get very close to 3 thou. I was wondering the same thing but the best I remember that is spec for the opening. I will double check to validate that though.

I guess I should add, I have been through all the grounds, vac lines etc and all are in good working condition. I need to check manifold bolts on the bottom side but I am still trying to figure out how to get to them without removing the fuel rail haha.

Ok so I went out this morning and reworked the MAP vac line so all is good there. No more rich idle. I would say that the sensor appears to be working correctly. Now I have a high idle ~ 1500 RPM consistent. Even with adjusting the TPS to @cruiser54 specs (4.83V A to B and .821V B to C) I get an extremely high idle ~3k +. Went back and adjusted it while running and can get it back to ~1500 RPM but as soon as I turn the engine off and start it up again I get ~3k RPM again. At this point I am going to slap a new TPS in it to make sure the circuit inside has not been compromised etc. Any other suggestions? This is the first truly high idle issue I have had and I can't say what the PO's nephew has done or not done to this thing lol. Judging by other things I found he twisted and turned alot of knobs he should not have! Thanks for any other help / advice.