howeitsdone

It sounds and feels like something getting hung up and then popping free or clunking. The exhaust mount on the crossmember is in good shape and keeping it from moving much. My shifter does move quite a bit. I had just replaced my clutch that same day beforehand so all of that was reinstalled and torqued to spec. The rubber mount looked good, but other than dry rot or cracking I wouldn't know what to look for. I have Azzy's linkage and it's all pretty tight.

I went ahead and took the front DS and TC out to inspect. The bearings seem to be fine, no broken/chipped teeth, and the forks are in good shape in the TC. Seems like the slack is good. The CCV was solid when installed and still felt solid when moving it around. Not sure I'm testing it properly once removed.

I also have that leak too. But this particular leak comes straight from under the RMS. I laid under the truck while it was running to verify.

Thanks guys, but please read my posts. This has nothing to do with 2wd.

Looks great! Now come do mine same color

Glad you got it running!

Correct, not sure what I was thinking. It is faced with the lip toward the engine. I didn't find any damage to the crankshaft.

Removed the pan again. Put RTV between the Gasket/Cap, and Gasket/Pan. Still leaking. I'm using "The Right Stuff" 1-min as well so shouldn't need to wait at all for a curing time. It's even coming out of the starter and getting thrown out the top of the dust shield. I'm completely lost.

Still leaking. I got under it while running to see if I could spot anything and I found where it's coming from. Appears to be the rear of the pan gasket or RMS again. Thinking of putting RTV on the bearing cap where the oil pan gasket indent is. Any negative experiences with anyone doing that?

Removed everything and reinstalled. Upper seal is fine, no tears. I did add a little RTV to the edges this time on the lower. I know that's required in late-model 4.0s, but this should be some insurance. We'll see if that helped.

I installed The same orientation as the original one. If I remember correctly, the lip faces the rear.

I only put RTV on the oil pan gasket where the RMS meets and the front two corners just as FP recommends. I'm not getting a leak from the pan, it's coming from between the bellhousing and dust shield. I replaced the pan gasket previously and worked just fine.

Yes, it's there on the outside as it should be.

As title states. Yesterday I replaced the RMS. Ended up putting a new FP oil pan gasket on too. Lightly RTV'd the recommended places and let it sit since yesterday to cure. I put oil in today and took it for a drive. The oil is now coming out pretty badly from between the bell housing and the dust shield. You can just watch it drip out quickly and steadily. The RMS cap was fine, no damage. Put back properly. Torqued to 80ft/lbs. I'm at a very confusing loss here. I can't think of any other variable that would cause this issue.

Just had it pulled this week while changing the clutch. No play in any of the u-joints. The front one is new.

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The truck is also going through a "transition" of some sort...

Got it out after about 5 hours. The brass aftermath... lots more pieces around the garage somewhere

Back in July of '21, I replaced the RMS-lower, valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket. I never replaced the upper because I didn't have a brass punch and thought the lower might solve the problem. Fast forward to now and I still have a leak back there. Get's really bad when traveling at higher speeds (more oil pressure). So today is the fun day of changing the upper RMS and putting an end to the BS. It's not going well so far lol. It's the original seal from 35 years ago and it likes going further up but not around. Fun weekend!

TC fluid was filled in December when installed. Never been rebuilt, but was disassembled for cleaning in October-ish. What in the TC would cause? Chain? And would I hear that from the front of the tranny?

Something to note: Rear main leaks can easily get into the bellhousing and get on the clutch. I just replaced my clutch this week and oil was everywhere from a long-term RMS leak. Not an immediate problem. But when you do find time to roll around under there, it'll be a good idea to replace. The ONLY benefit of driving it like that is the oil covers and protects everything underneath Like Cruiser said, Fel-Pro blue rubber gaskets.

I have a '98 axle

As the title states. When in 4WD (PT & FT) I get a loud clunk and vibration when there is a lot of torque applied. Generally when going up very steep hills or obstacles. Video below. Doesn't quite do it justice, but hopefully you get the idea. U joints are fine. It feels like it's coming from the front of the transmission almost so I've been thinking something with the front driveline. If I give the same torque in 2WD I don't get the issue.

New clutch over the last few days. Night & Day driving experience! It's been 7 years since I've had a new clutch in a vehicle and I forgot how smooth it is. I'll have to get used to actually rev-matching again I will note that I did not use a 2nd person to help bleed the Master/Slave. Pneumatic bleeder and some wood wedged in the seat adjuster to hold the pedal down as I opened/closed the bleeder. A bit more involved, but possible nonetheless.

Ended up sanding as suggested. I did a pass of 400 and then 800. Definitely no resurface, but it'll get the job done. Enough to get that rust off.